'05 Budget Engine Rebuild

[Dysfunctional Vet]

Was gonna start putting the fuel injectors in a couple days ago, but...
The older I get, the less I tend to half-a$$ stuff. I was just gonna reuse the old injector tubes, could not bring myself to do it. Ordered a set and they just came in (I wonder if they replace them on those reman engines I keep telling myself I should've bought). I'll have some time this weekend to put them in, then work on the valve train. After that I'll have to wait 'til my buddy can help me stab the engine.

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

 

[CVR222NV]

I had my motor remanufactured by DFC Diesel and for their tow-haul motor they use ARP Series 2000 head studs and they require that once the engine has been fired that it be brought to operating temperature and the head studs retorqued to 140 ft lbs.

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

I had my motor remanufactured by DFC Diesel and for their tow-haul motor they use ARP Series 2000 head studs and they require that once the engine has been fired that it be brought to operating temperature and the head studs retorqued to 140 ft lbs.

Yes sir, appreciate the feedback. Bromiley99 had the same advice. I hate to think I have to tear the cover off this thing 20 minutes after I get it fired up, but looks like that's exactly what I'll have to do. Wonder how tough it is to adjust valve lash after everything is installed. It was easy adjusting the valves w/ it sitting on the stand, w/o the injector wiring in the way.

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

Valve train is now installed. Now I have to put the cover on. Then I have to figure out how to drop the engine in w/o bending the engine eyelit on the rear of the head. I bent it easily pulling the engine out.

 

[sag2]

If you are going to re-torque the studs after warm up just leave the valve cover off when you fire it up. They do not make a mess running with the cover off. And besides no valve cover gains a couple more inches of clearance if you are swinging it in without lifting the cab up a couple of inches.

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

If you are going to re-torque the studs after warm up just leave the valve cover off when you fire it up. They do not make a mess running with the cover off. And besides no valve cover gains a couple more inches of clearance if you are swinging it in without lifting the cab up a couple of inches.

Didn't know it wouldn't spew oil everywhere. I'll have to try the no-cover approach. Thanks.

 

[MGreer]

When I put my engine back in I had to remove injectors #5 and #6 for clearance. I went ahead and removed #4 also. I had to remove the driver's side engine mount bracket from the engine in order to mate the engine to trans. Yours being an auto might not be an issue, I just didn't have a helper.
The rear eyelet will bend again, but since the injectors were out, I didn't have to worry about damage to injector lines. After the engine was back in I removed the eyelet and bent it back into shape.

Hope this helps

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

When I put my engine back in I had to remove injectors #5 and #6 for clearance. I went ahead and removed #4 also. I had to remove the driver's side engine mount bracket from the engine in order to mate the engine to trans. Yours being an auto might not be an issue, I just didn't have a helper.
The rear eyelet will bend again, but since the injectors were out, I didn't have to worry about damage to injector lines. After the engine was back in I removed the eyelet and bent it back into shape.

Hope this helps

Didn't think about it 'til you posted. I don't have the fuel lines and manifold (or whatever it's called) installed. I wonder, will I have a hard time installing them if the engine is already in the bay?

 

[MGreer]

With the front of the truck disassembled they're not that hard to install, just be patient and thorough. I would install the fuel return line in the back of the cyl head finger tight before installing engine to make the line easier to get hooked up.

 

[BigPapa]

While the engine's out, did you replace the rectangular ring seal between the adapter plate and the block?

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

While the engine's out, did you replace the rectangular ring seal between the adapter plate and the block?

View attachment 134729

Yes sir, I did change the seal for the backside of the cam. Good lookin' out though, thanks.

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

With the front of the truck disassembled they're not that hard to install, just be patient and thorough. I would install the fuel return line in the back of the cyl head finger tight before installing engine to make the line easier to get hooked up.

Good idea, I'll have to do that. Hope I can remember what it looks like.

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

Stabbed the engine in today

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

Didn't do my firewall any favors

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

 

[Dysfunctional Vet]

Went to bolt up my new Goerend triple disc torque converter. Stock bolts didn't feel right going in, something is off. I didn't cross-thread anything but it just didn't seem to tighten up correctly. So I just stopped. I'll have to call them on Monday and see if there are specific bolts , or if the stock bolts can be reused on their equipment.
At least I got the block off that Harbor Fright engine stand. It was at its extreme load level.
Got the wife to help me drop it in. Always funny to have her in the garage, she's so out of place. Glad OSHA wasn't in there, they'd have had a heart attack with my choice off footwear. At least the wife went to grab her old military steel toes.
Anyways, it's at least inside the frame rails. I'm sure Mr. Murphy is lurking in the shadows, but it felt good to at least get this far.

 

[nibroc]

keep us posted

 

[Ozymandias]

Stop!!!! Goerend delivered you a set of new bolts with the converter - do not reuse the old ones, they do not fit!

(Just installed one half a year ago)