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05 engine failure.. Please help

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Trans cooler check valve

1000 h.p.

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***Update***



Great Idea Gary, That is exactly what I did...



I spoke with an engineer at cummins aftermarket department regarding this issue. . He stated that exhaust modifications could cause over rev only if the exhaust diameter decreased from stock size... In this case, the diameter was increased from the stock size. .



My question is what causes "Over rev" of the turbo? Do these turbos come with waste gates from the factory?



If anyone has any other imput please provide
 
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!!!!!UPDATE!!!!



So after 9 weeks of battle with corporate Chrysler. . They have stuck to their position not to warranty the Turbo... I have had my truck repaired (turbo 7 intercooler replaced)... Picked it up on monday. . Oo. . Only to drive it 40 miles and it break down again, the engine just quit, no warning lights, guages, sounds, nothing. . #@$%!



I have it towed back to the dealership :{. . and notify them of what happened. . They call the next morning and say that it is fixed. .



I go to the dealership to find they charged me only $6. 75 for the lift pump fuse, and replacement of a tail light bulb. . DId you know these things have a fuse for the lift pump, I didnt :p...





So all said and done. . My truck is back on the road Oo. , however I am still going to fight Chrysler on their warranty denial of the turbo... Total cost $3,500 for turbo and intercooler installed at a dealership. .



Everyones conclusions were correct about the engine being fine. . ;) Suprise Suprise right... :p However, valuable lessons were learned here. .



The biggest one was... . I choose to modify my truck, therefore i am my warranty repair station:-laf





Thank you everyone for you help, support, and point of views. . It has truely helped me along. . :D



Regards,



Brandon
 
!!!!!UPDATE!!!!



So after 9 weeks of battle with corporate Chrysler. . They have stuck to their position not to warranty the Turbo... I have had my truck repaired (turbo 7 intercooler replaced)... Picked it up on monday. . Oo. . Only to drive it 40 miles and it break down again, the engine just quit, no warning lights, guages, sounds, nothing. . #@$%!



I have it towed back to the dealership :{. . and notify them of what happened. . They call the next morning and say that it is fixed. .



I go to the dealership to find they charged me only $6. 75 for the lift pump fuse, and replacement of a tail light bulb. . DId you know these things have a fuse for the lift pump, I didnt :p...





So all said and done. . My truck is back on the road Oo. , however I am still going to fight Chrysler on their warranty denial of the turbo... Total cost $3,500 for turbo and intercooler installed at a dealership. .



Everyones conclusions were correct about the engine being fine. . ;) Suprise Suprise right... :p However, valuable lessons were learned here. .



The biggest one was... . I choose to modify my truck, therefore i am my warranty repair station:-laf





Thank you everyone for you help, support, and point of views. . It has truely helped me along. . :D



Regards,



Brandon







3500... ..... Wow did that come with a kiss?? :D
 
Glad to hear you got her back on the road! You might want to consider sampling your oil just to check engine condition.
 
Don't go back to the Dodge dealer for a kit. Go to a truck or engine dealer and buy a sample kit. It will come with the bottle and in some cases a tube to pull it through the dipstick tube. Cat, Detroit and Cummins all offer them. The Cat part number is SK1003. Sells for 25. 00 bucks. Freightliner part number is SEG 0D8011. Sells for 13. 00 bucks.

They come with a label to ship it to the lab in the box. You need to do a sample now, and then do another a few thousand miles later to see if you are getting any excess metals, etc. in the oil. First test gets a baseline going, second test will tell the story.
 
Thanks for the info on the sampeling. . I wish this forum was a mandatory for your CTD purchase... I have definately learned alot. . BTW... mabe I can kill 2 threads in one. . LOL What kind of guages shoud I run. . I was thinking, EGT, BOOST, FUEL PRESSURE... I have a G56 trans. . Please advise. . Thanks everyone. .
 
Here's the company that I use and many others on this forum.



Blackstone Labs



They seem to be more in touch with pickups than some others. Details on how to sample is on the website. They will send you a free sample kit with instructions and bottle(s). I have always just sampled the oil as it is draining from the pan - not the first to come out, or the last, somewhere in the middle of the drain. Need to do it when the engine is warm. There are methods of vacuum sampling as I recall, but have never pursued that method. Sample can be mailed back to them and they will send results via e-mail or regular mail. Seems like my last sample took about a week to get results.
 
I'm also glad to hear your truck is repaired but not surprised that after nine weeks of argument you paid for the repair.

The gauges you suggested would be good although IMO boost and egt are adequate. I personally have never owned or seen the need for a fuel pressure gauge.
 
I go to the dealership to find they charged me only $6. 75 for the lift pump fuse,



Did they change to a fused lift pump when they went to in-tank pumps? My 2003 has no such fuse (lift pump is controlled by the ECM directly).



The wiring diagram for 2006 trucks indicates no such fuse. It says the fuel pump is controlled the same way as in 2003 - direct from the ECM.



Ryan
 
stop flipping out and cut the engine oil filter open



I just read all 75 posts on this thread and found it interesting that it wasn't until # 46 that someone Finally suggested cutting open the oil filter. That's one of the first things the local Cummins shop does when there is a failure. On my 03 I just bought with a "dead" CTD the previous owner was told "the bottom end is shot" and he "needed a new engine" by some shop. How they figured this out I don't know. When I got it the first thing I did was remove the oil filter and cut it open. It was full of both metallic and non-metallic filings. Now i know for sure it's "dead" :-laf I will rebuild it this winter.



BTW For those who have never cut a filter open, you use a filter cutter - it's like a large version of the pipe cutting tool you use for plumbing- and cut the nut plate off. Remove the element and cut a section of the media out with a knife. With several rags to catch the oil stick it in a vise and "squeeze " it out. The spread it out and look for shinny things :-laf Different materials, aluminum, copper etc come from different parts of the engine helping to determine what failed.



Shadrach
 
it may be controlled by the ECM but surely the full current to run the pump isn't coming from the ECM, right?



Indeed, it does. The full current to operate the lift pump comes from the ECM. It's a straight run of wire from the ECM connector to the lift pump.



I have always assumed that the ECM has an internal circuit breaker on that circuit.



Ryan
 
My 05 uses relay #61 to drive the lift pump and has a 20 amp mini fuse in the #39 position. I know the relay is correct because I pulled it to manually jump the lift pump. Are the 03's that different?
 
Indeed, it does. The full current to operate the lift pump comes from the ECM. It's a straight run of wire from the ECM connector to the lift pump.



I have always assumed that the ECU has an internal circuit breaker on that circuit.



Ryan



No, NEVER EVER full current thru the ECU. :eek: It would melt the internals in a second.



All the ECU ever does is complete circuits it controls. All the amperage and load is taken up between the component and battery with the ECU only maintaining a current path. Very little amperage runs thru it on the neutral side of a circuit.



Component should still be fused between supply and load to prevent agasinst catastrophic failure. Could be a fuse, relay, or even fusible link covering it.
 
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No, NEVER EVER full current thru the ECU. :eek: It would melt the internals in a second.



All the ECU ever does is complete circuits it controls. All the amperage and load is taken up between the component and battery with the ECU only maintaining a current path. Very little amperage runs thru it on the neutral side of a circuit.



Component should still be fused between supply and load to prevent agasinst catastrophic failure. Could be a fuse, relay, or even fusible link covering it.

I think your wrong but not for sure. I looked at the wiring diagram for 2003 and it does in fact show it wired just as Ryan states. Power straight from the ECM, lift pump grounded at the G120 ground. Then on the next sheet it shows a "fuel pump" but it is wired power and ground to the ECM, power on one side and fuel pump relay control on the other. It can't use a relay the way the the diagram shows it, so that's why I'm not 100% sure. But I still think Ryan is correct.
 
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