06 turbo help/questions

[Mhannink]

ok so we have an 06 dodge cummins with 92k miles, the truck pulls a 6 horse trailer 90 to 95% of the time, its all stock with a bd exhaust brake. the turbo is leaking oil pretty bad, 1 qt in 3k miles. so i am looking for a new turbo. i am trying to figure out my options and what would be best. the truck will pretty much stay stock its whole life, in other words its never going to build big power. i would like a turbo that is solid and reliable even under heavy use, will make the truck run cooler and perform better, it has to spool and respond like factory, it has to be able to take the exhaust brake i already have, and i would like it to have to capability of handling more power. currently i am looking at the afe bladerunner but dont know anything about it. does afe make it or just put their badge on it? will it fit my criteria? im looking for any and all info i can get on this turbo and others to find the best one for our application. whats out there for the 06's and what do you all think of them. also i need this information rather quick since the stock turbo is on its way out and the truck cannot be stranded on the side of the road. thanks matt

 

[cerberusiam]

Just to get on the same page, the AFE bladerunner is an intake horn not a turbo.



The turbo is a lot about personal preference, HTT, Industrial Injection, BD, and others all have their products. The Garret Stage II seems to be a good shoice for a tow turbo that will work for your application. Search this forum there is a good review by a member that has one.



II's PS and SPS series turbos in a 62\12 are close to stock on spool and cool better.



HTT's versions of the same thing also work well. Stay with a 62 or smaller compressor and a 12 cm housing and you should have a good choice of items that will work for you.

 

[Mhannink]

afe bladerunner is also a turbo AFE BladeRunner Turbocharger 46-60051



i am looking at the bd killer be too and kinda like it though i dont like bd, it is a borg warner turbo and those i do like. problem and another question, it says not for street use in cali, with the trucks now being inspected and smoged will that be a problem? anyone with experience in that matter.



as for the list of manufacturers htt is one i like, garrett im rather nuetral on, bd and ii are not favorites of mine, though if others have had success with them i might consider them more.

 

[Mhannink]

also am i going to need a boost fooler on a stock fueled truck?

 

[cerberusiam]

Yep, your probably gonna have a problem with the smog police.



That turbo must be a rebadged one form somewhere as its new. A 58 mm compressor wheel doesn't impress me much. The stocker is a 60 and good 62 will move a lot more air.



You will need the boost fooler to stop the over boost codes once you go over 32 psi.

 

[Mhannink]

yeah i like the looks of the afe, but am curious about where its from. the 58mm wheel is a little small but probably ok in this application, remember the truck will not break 450 horse ever. at the most it would get a timing programer for mileage, nothing for power. a smaller wheel might make for a little better spool which would be good.



i wonder if carb will throw a fit about any aftermarket turbo? or maybe they are just looking that the equipment such as catylitic converter and egr are in place and operating. does anyone think or better yet know if they will say something about the bd turbo on a street truck?

 

[AH64ID]

I am not impressed with that turbo's specs. The comp wheel is a 57x76, stock is a 60x82. . Design is important too, but the compressor map doesn't even support stock boost levels.

I would look at the Garrett Stage 2 or the modifed stocker from WOP.

TurboByGarrett.com - Dodge Cummins (2002. 5 - 2007. 5)

Wide Open Performance - Online Store

 

[Mhannink]

Remember this is a stock truck. The only performance product would be a timing only programmer. Im looking more for endurance and strength than horsepower. Where did you find compressor maps? I would like to look at one for the bladerunner. My main goal is a solid turbo that can handle work and abuse. If it drops egts that's good too.

 

[AH64ID]

This is off the AFE site.

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If all you are going to add is timing, like the Smarty Jr on SW1 then I would look into either of those turbo's I recommended. The OEM turbine is the hindrance, and that modded stock turbo has a much better turbine, and the Garrett is better all around.

 

[cerberusiam]

Remember this is a stock truck. The only performance product would be a timing only programmer. Im looking more for endurance and strength than horsepower. My main goal is a solid turbo that can handle work and abuse. If it drops egts that's good too.

Your going to be paying a minimum of $1200-1300 for a new turbo you might as well get your $$ worth, even if it is basically stock and staying that way. The $200-300 extra spread across the comparable units gets you a lot in some cases and is just worth the extra for head room.



The Garret is the exception but it has some attributes that may be well worth the investment.



Pretty much any of these units are going to be much better than the stocker because they don't have to meet emissions. Even stock, the truck is going to benefit if the turbo is matched correctly.

 

[AH64ID]

Even stock, the truck is going to benefit if the turbo is matched correctly.

I only have about 25 miles driving with my Garrett on stock tuning, but WOW. . I think the gain was the largest on stock tuning. With the stock timing the motor really came alive with the free-flow turbine, I was quite impressed!

 

[CKelley1]

we tow heavy and i agree with cerberusian on this one. the 62-65-12 is the ideal size for you. a boost fooler is needed for the codes along with a 145 ohm 2 watt resistor to fool the waste gate solenoid circuit. if you get the turbo from htt it will have the plug and resistor with it. i can show you how to get 40%better fuel mileage out of your 06

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[AH64ID]

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Those just aren't accurate enough to even really look at, especially since your injectors make them even less accurate.

I do agree a turbo, cam, injectors, and Smarty Jr will really improve mileage. . but 26 on the overhead with those mods is about 18-20 hand calc on most trucks with nozzles.

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[Bob4x4]

afe bladerunner is also a turbo AFE BladeRunner Turbocharger 46-60051



i am looking at the bd killer be too and kinda like it though i dont like bd, it is a borg warner turbo and those i do like. problem and another question, it says not for street use in cali, with the trucks now being inspected and smoged will that be a problem? anyone with experience in that matter.



as for the list of manufacturers htt is one i like, garrett im rather nuetral on, bd and ii are not favorites of mine, though if others have had success with them i might consider them more.

I can tell you the spool up on the AFE is better than stock,much less smoke with tnt on 3 than stock and dyno'ed better by a huge margin. With 60 smarty hp tune it did 104 better so over a 40 hp gain with the turbo... ... .

Here in Cali smoke has gotten to be a big concern. The smoke will not be visible if you drive normal but if you hit it hard from a stop there will be a qiuck puff then clean in seconds compared to a black out with the stocker



A bigger turbo is surely more fun but on a stocker or even a mild upgrade I prefer a nice hitting bottom end vs the top end. Maybe I am just getting too old and practical

 

[Bob4x4]

also am i going to need a boost fooler on a stock fueled truck?

should'nt,the AFE uses the factory solenoid mounted

 

[Bob4x4]

Forgot to mention the AFE is plug and play... ... ... . stock down pipe is a direct bolt up as are the oil feed and return lines.

 

[CKelley1]

no the stock solenoid does not work like most people think.

when 12 volts is applied to the solenoid it opens up a port and bleeds some of the air back into the volute increasing the waste gate opening from 20 psi to 30 psi. remove the three o rings to prevent damaging them and cut the solenoid into about 7/8 inch above the base that mates to the turbo next cut the square part where the wrench go's deeper to make it easier to tighten up. i cut some more of the outer barrel off for looks but you do not have to. next remove any parts left in the center tube, you will be able to see all the way through the tube. tap the tube with a 1/8 in. npt. and install a 1/8 pipe plug. replace the o rings and install see pix. The solenoid is 11 ohms. The largest resistor used to date to fool the ecm is 147 ohms. the above give info to use a he351 on a earlier truck the resistor is for aftermarket on a 04. 5 up

 

[cerberusiam]

should'nt,the AFE uses the factory solenoid mounted

Then it would need a boost fooler to stop the WG opening at the preset stock levels. How much boost it would actually make on an 03 is the question. The 04. 5's were capable of 40 psi with the stocker and limited to about 30 psi constant. The 03's were limited to less than that but not sure where the overboost tables were set.

 

[CKelley1]

i may be confused but the solenoid does not open the wastegate. it opens a passage to allow the turbo to change from 20 psi to 30 psi, this has to do with emissions. i do not like the afe but it comes with the resistor to fool the ecm to think the solenoid is still there. a second code is thrown when boost go's above about 35 psi this is where the need of the boost fooler comes into play. i think we are getting a little off of his question. he does not have that much power if the housing is to big the low end low rpm torque is diminished, as stated i think the best is 62-65-12. your truck has in-cylinder egr if you get rid of the biggest part of it you can lower egt by 300* and gain mpg. change the cam to a pdr or colt, nozzles to 50hp and smarty jr set on default economy and realise a nice 6mpg gain

 

[cerberusiam]

i may be confused but the solenoid does not open the wastegate.

Bob posted this:

should'nt,the AFE uses the factory solenoid mounted

If he mounts the factory solenoid then he will have a fail safe at 40 psi, but, not unless he uses a boost fooler as the ECU will open the WG at about 32 psi. Also, without a boost fooler 32-34 psi is going to throw codes for over boost.



Even if he uses the WG fooler and nothing to remap boost tables he will get codes for over boost. Hence my comment a boost fooler is needed to stop codes, stop the WG from opening, and utilize the turbo correctly.