06 turbo help/questions

[AH64ID]

i may be confused but the solenoid does not open the wastegate. it opens a passage to allow the turbo to change from 20 psi to 30 psi, this has to do with emissions. i do not like the afe but it comes with the resistor to fool the ecm to think the solenoid is still there. a second code is thrown when boost go's above about 35 psi this is where the need of the boost fooler comes into play. i think we are getting a little off of his question. he does not have that much power if the housing is to big the low end low rpm torque is diminished, as stated i think the best is 62-65-12. your truck has in-cylinder egr if you get rid of the biggest part of it you can lower egt by 300* and gain mpg. change the cam to a pdr or colt, nozzles to 50hp and smarty jr set on default economy and realise a nice 6mpg gain

Think of the solenoid as a electronic boost elbow. The actual wastegate on the HE351 is set to open about 22-24 psi, just like an HE351. With 12V applied the solenoid will not allow any air to go to the wastegate, as the boost nears the max range the ECM will start to decrease the voltage to the solenoid, as the voltage decreases it starts to allow air to go to the wastegate. The solenoid has a built in "leak" that puts some of the air back to the intake side of the turbo, this keeps the air pressure in the wastegate line from reaching the same pressure as in the turbo. The ECM then modulates the voltage to keep the boost where it wants it, which is right about 30 psi. When the trucks don't have much of a load it seems to hold about 28-30 psig, and with a good load they hold 28-32 psig. Each truck is a little different and elevation/air filter make a big difference because the ECM uses the difference in ambient pressure vs manifold pressure to determine boost.



When you put a resistor in the solenoid plug you are simulating the load that the solenoid normally has, becuase the ECM removes voltage and reduces load when trying to regulate boost the resistor works fine when you get above the boost set point becuase voltage and resistance go down and the ECM doesn't see an issue, if your boost level is within stock specs. You do need a boost fooler if you are running more boost than stock, but thats for an overboost code, not a wastegate malfunction code. On most trucks the Smarty "boost fooling" works until 44 psi, which is where the MAP sensor maxes out and the ECM defuels.

Bob posted this:







If he mounts the factory solenoid then he will have a fail safe at 40 psi, but, not unless he uses a boost fooler as the ECU will open the WG at about 32 psi. Also, without a boost fooler 32-34 psi is going to throw codes for over boost.



Even if he uses the WG fooler and nothing to remap boost tables he will get codes for over boost. Hence my comment a boost fooler is needed to stop codes, stop the WG from opening, and utilize the turbo correctly.

What's the fail safe at 40 psi?

 

[Bob4x4]

The Afe will be. Fine

In testing Afe did use boost foolers

The turbo was tested on so and ho version

Ctd's Towing and empty and tons of dyno runs

 

[AH64ID]

The Afe will be. Fine

In testing Afe did use boost foolers

The turbo was tested on so and ho version

Ctd's Towing and empty and tons of dyno runs

Have you seen the compressor map? It's smaller than the stock turbo, not sure how that can be fine.