07 ram with the 5.9 in limp mode .

[cerberusiam]

The 350k on a set of jerk pump injectors is neither impressive nor unusual. In fact, if that is all they run extra lube and filtration could be a benefit.

200k on a CR injector is the equivalent of about 500k on a jerk pump while dealing with 3 times as much pressure and fouling from asphaltenes that is not as critical in older systems.

Ultimately the measure of an injector is its efficacy to do its job. That has a whole different set of contributory parameters than just total miles. There is no "mystery" to fuel additives that enhance the life expectancy. Added lube, periodic cleaning of the whole fuel system, added filtration, etc., has proven to be effective and even endorsed by Cummins in the CR systems. Cummins, Bosch, and Ram did not adopt fuel quality requirement son a whim, they just finally caught up to what al other segments of the diesel industry did as a rule.

 

[GAmes]

The 350k on a set of jerk pump injectors is neither impressive nor unusual. In fact, if that is all they run extra lube and filtration could be a benefit.

Jerk pump injectors. A new low for you.

I'm still waiting on that independent research that shows ULSD lacks lubricity that you claim exists. Until then all I hear is blah, blah, blah.

 

[WBraico]

Right On . I've always ran some kind of addative, Amsoil filters, synthetic oils. Whether all that is "Snake oil" don't know? Things are still gonna break down or wear out, but I believe in that added insurance. I have ran everything from trans fluid to used motor oil in my Big Cam 350 in my dump truck and you can't kill that motor lol. Lately I've been dealing with algae in that fuel because we're just not using it.

 

[GAmes]

Like I said. Your engine, your money.

 

[WBraico]

Well I narrowed it down to #2 injector. All the other 5 Ohmed out around .3 #2 ohmed out at 2.4 ohms (Warm) and .9 (Cold). Wiring harness/gasket checked out fine. The motor has 159K on it and it's probably a good time for a new set of injectors about now, but I'm gonna cheap out and just change the Solenoid, I actually found some Genuine Bosch Solenoids, collar nut and O-rings. WHY is it always #2 or #3 Injector Solenoids that set off these codes in these Generations?

 

[cerberusiam]

Before you change a solenoid understand that the solenoid install is part of the injector setup. You have to have the right tools and knowledge to setup the injector correctly and be able to test the operation after it is setup. Injector balance and operation across the range of pressures is critical or you can have other problems. Much better off buying a single new injector and installing it than messing with a used one.

 

[Ozymandias]

Yeah, a hole in a piston is way more expensive.
Don't cheap out here, very bad idea.

 

[WBraico]

OK.... Do we know why its always #2 0r 3 that rears its ugly head on these 3rd Gens ?

 

[cerberusiam]

It is much more likely #5 and #6 have issues with #6 prevalent. Solenoid issues are random, I have replaced every position randomly for solenoid or balance issues. Position 5 and 6 are almost always the ones with enough engine damage to require a rebuild.

 

[WBraico]

Gotcha, I'm aware that 159K miles with the previous owner running 10 micron fuel filters are a great candidate for a set of new injectors. And I will cross that bridge soon, but had so many other mods I needed to do to this new truck so I can use it for work.
But is there any concrete evidence that only replacing the faulty solenoid that was picked up by the ECM which spit out a trouble code for an electronic deficiency ever lead to a mechanical failure of the injector below that is only doing what the solenoid is being told what to do by the ECM ? Or is it Bosch not wanting the average "Joe" messing with or trying to repair a precision factory assembled injector unit ?

 

[cerberusiam]

Turn that question around and look at potential consequences: Is it worth $6-10k to find out what *could* happen when a new injector is around $400?

Essentially if the solenoid does not work correctly the mechanical portion of the injector does not work correctly. It just as easily inject too much as too little, or at the wrong time.

 

[WBraico]

Yes that's correct with a faulty Solenoid the mechanical portion of the injector will not deliver fuel in a precise or consistent manner, and since the Solenoid is the "brain" of the injector assembly by replacing the "faulty" part of the puzzle (Solenoid) the components go back to functioning as they were meant.? The fuel shop at Southeast power systems in FL. which sold me the Bosch Solenoids said its the equivalent of changing a "sparkplug" and to just follow the simple but specific instructions and you should be fine. But he added, its always a good idea to have the injector tested by a qualified fuel shop. Maybe I should go ahead and pull it out and have it check out just to give me some piece of mind? Yes I'm being stubborn, lol, but right now with the pandemic I have more time than a steady income.

 

[cerberusiam]

If you can find a shop that actually knows how to test the functionality correctly that is a back check it is set at least close.

 

[WBraico]

Yes, after contacting a handful of fuel shops that said they can only test it I'm going to take it to BECS Pacific they did my VP44 back a couple years ago. Their a Bosch shop $$$, he said for 50 to $75 they will run it thru a complete test and give me a print out. If it fails they won't repair it, just sell me a Bosch reman at $295. Let's hope it passes. Now I just need to order a Haynes manual from Geno's for this truck to make sure I do things in the correct sequence.

 

[Ozymandias]

You can download the OEM manual for free if you need to safe money.

 

[WBraico]

Well I was about to order the Hayes manual for my 07 from Geno's but after looking at a few reviews on Amazon they say it barely touches on our diesels and is mostly about the 1/2 ton gassers?. So I added another subscription to my "ALLDATA" account that I use for my 13 Caprice PPV for $34.99/5 years of access paid with my card and I get a message they are experiencing difficulties currently and to allow 2 days for someone to get back with me. I just can't win today? Must be monday..

 

[sag2]

This should get you what you need.
https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/injector-install-procedure-with-photos.148621/page-7

 

[WBraico]

This should get you what you need.
https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/injector-install-procedure-with-photos.148621/page-7

Yes! Thank you, I'm heading to my storage unit to pull out issue 52 if the mice didn't get there first lol.

 

[WBraico]

Well no luck finding issue 52 at my storage, that box might still be at the Ex's (not going there) .
But I'm able to see the photos in that article on a Super Clean motor, but my concern will be with #5/6 . Just ready to order some tools that should make the injector job go easier. Do Flare nut crow foot wrenches work better than just a combination flare nut wrench especially on #5/6 feed lines? I see Geno's has a few options for getting to those rear tubes. Torque specs shows 22ft.lbs on those flare nuts, I guess a Crows foot may achieve the proper torque if you can figure out the factor for leverage ? Mabe I'm over thinking this and should just use common sense when tightening a flare nut.
Thanks
Walt

 

[cerberusiam]

You really do not need the crows foot wrench if you pull the VC riser, that will clear the TQ tube to use a socket on it. A short wrench to hold the TQ tube when tightening the lines is recommended. Judicious use of pry bar will pop injector loose, same with tubes if you don't want to source all the tools. The TQ tube insert is the only needed tool if the tubes are stuck.