10K Blues (low power problem)

[TKilgore]

This may be long but please read.
Pulled TT to Wind Creek State Park (~4hrs from home)and half way there turned 10K miles. My truck has always run strong for STOCK (except for 4" exhaust)and I was having a hard time keeping it under 75 on I-65. I thought this is great and it will only get better now.
Anyway, got there fine and just putted around the park for a week with two trips to town (~ 7 mi. )and fueled up on the second trip. (same station I had used before and last time just a month ago). On the way home w/TT could not hit 70 mph on I-65. The temp rose some and the fan cycled several times (fan very seldom if at all came on before).
Had to continue home ~60 mph. Engine never missed or smoked, starts fine, the exhaust sounds alittle subdued (not the jet engine sound like before)even my wife noticed the different sound.
Got home and check exhaust system for restriction. None
Thought if might be bad fuel and changed the filter again. No Change however, I did notice no fuel comes out of the drain valve but there is fuel in the housing and the pump appeares to be working. After I got home finally installed gauges (boost and fuel pressure with more to come). Fuel press at idle 12 psi 60mph in 3rd gear empty ~6 psi Boost 21 psi.
Please give me your thoughts about what to check. I do not want to take it to the dealer. I like to do my own work.
TIA
Tom

PS has anyone had a bad overflow valve?

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2001 3500 QC auto 4X4 3. 55 lsd Dark Garnet Red
JRE 4" Exhaust

[This message has been edited by TVKilgore (edited 05-05-2001). ]

 

[C1B1DIESEL]

I would also agree. mine did the same.
changed lift pump. fuel psi at idle 18psi,
14 psi cruise and 11 psi wide open full load.
It is possible that fuel you got is not as good as it was before. a bad batch.

 

[csutton7]

I was going to say check you intercooler hose connections but you're getting boost-so I doubt if that's it---air filter???--blown intake gasket--loose exhaust manifold bolts--just thinking out loud here--chris

 

[TKilgore]

I was afraid ya'll were going to say that.
Did all of you replace yours with an OEM or aftermarket?
Is there a rebuild kit so I can keep mine as a spare?
Do you know about the one JRE sells?
Is it OEM or bolt up the same, and the $$$
Thanks for your help

 

[TKilgore]

Chris... ... . keep up the brain storming, this problem is right up your alley.
BTW, I haven't thanked you and the others for all your R&D and most of all sharing your info with us. Tom

 

[pwr2tow]

There is suppose to be a rebuild kit for the lift pump but all any one will tell me is: any where you can find federal/mogul parts. If you can find the parts I would love to know.
Ron

 

[pwr2tow]

used oem parts.
cummins $150. 00
chrysler $395. 00

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Guys, I agree lift pumps should be BOMBed, but I don't think that is at the root of Kilgore's problem. Notice in the original post he still has 6psi at WOT and 12psi cruising, which tells me his lift pump is not in too bad of shape. Drilling out the banjo bolts would be plenty adequate for a non-BOMBed engine and I'd keep your lift pump for now if you don't plan to BOMB anytime soon.

Maybe you could try some good injector cleaner of fuel conditioner, and check all intake system hoses like suggested. Also check the T-stat, if you are running warm, the ECM may be defueling for engine protection.

Vaughn

 

[TKilgore]

Thanks Vaughn. . I will check the tstat, good point. I may have typed it wrong but idle is 12 psi crusing around town = 9-10psi and pretty hard throttle is 5-6 psi. What really concerns me is there is NO fuel released when the drain valve is opened. However, when the filter is removed there is fuel in the canister.
Also, I have been using Lucas most every tank since new.
thanks tom

[This message has been edited by TVKilgore (edited 05-05-2001). ]

 

[RobbyRam]

TV,
If there is no fuel released when you raise the switch on the fuel cannister, you may not be lifting it all the way up, as I had the same problem. When I finally got it all the way up, fuel poured out!
Bob

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Y2K Awesome Black LB 3500 QC SLT, 24Valve ETC ISB, 4x4, 4:10 LSD, DTT Custom prepared Auto transmission VB, Power Edge 'EZ', DD2's, K&N, Polished Stull Billet Grill/Fog inserts, Chrome Smitty-Built Step Rails, Mopar Chrome-Tipped Mud Flaps, A-Pillar mounted West-Tach Turbo/Pyro/Trans Temp gauges, Rancho 9000's, Diamond Plated Tool Box, + a bunch of other stuff. Fact:The First Fords' had 'DODGE' Engines! The new PSD's need them!

 

[TKilgore]

RobbyRam, I thought about that too. When I leave it in the up position and cycle the key I get fuel discharge for the 2 seconds the pump is on

 

[pwr2tow]

Sounds like a bad lift pump mine done the same thing only I could never get more than 9psi. Cummins specs are 10psi at high idle (2600-2800RPM). I thought about the over flow valve but after changeing my lift pump and modifying the banjo bolts the fuel pressure never drops below 12psi on a full pull with everthing in my signature. Running down road I get a constant 14psi. If you change lift pumps buy it at cummins and save yourself $250. 00 over DC charge. Most people change there lift pump by doing it from under the truck and removeing the starter, I did mine from up top and all I had to remove was the filter, did not even remove filter bracket. Mines an auto and I can slid my arm down behind brake booster to get at bracket bolts, disconnect wires, disconnect fuel inlet, remove bolts from bracket, then remove banjo bolt from filter inlet line and use the line to fish the lift pump out with your left hand while guideing with right hand. Works slick for me and replacement time is greatly reduced. Hope this helps.
Ron

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1999, 3500, 6x6, slt, auto, 3. 55, Qd cab, ISB cummins, Isspro transmission temp, EGT, Boost gauges on A-piler, fuel prssure gauge, DD stage 1, DD TTPM, modified banjo bolts, K&N 0880 with prefilter, triple trailing 2001 26RKSS Tahoe 5th wheel, 1999 120hp 1800 bayliner. 20,000 lbs GCW.

 

[LSMITH]

I have to agree with Ron since you have changed the fuel filter and it is not smoking. Low power is not enough air (smoke) or not enough fuel most of the time. You will eventually need a lift pump anyway so it won't be money wasted if it does not fix the problem. Your readings are a little low on the fuel pressure guage also. Good luck.

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99 2500 QC 4X4 AUTO SB 24V LARAMIE SLT 3. 5 LSD 285-75-16'S SPA Boost/EGT Rancho 9000's Everything but leather NRA Member Great Lakes TDR Member

 

[Paul Somers]

Kind of far fetched but have you tried running with the fuel cap removed? Fuel not draining from fuel filter sounds like some kind of air lock. If line is'nt stopped up and fuel is in canister; what else would keep fuel from comming out. Like putting finger on straw with fluid in it. No flow.
PS: Go to Wind Creek couple times a year.

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Northport,AL. 1999 2500 quad cab, driftwood, 5 speed ISB. Boost and Pyro gauges. Line-x.
Amateur extra W4XH

 

[Mopar-muscle]

though your lift pump needs to be moved back toward the tank , the pressures you are getting are fine for a stock ram and well within spec . modifying the banjo bolts is a good idea , especially the banjo fittings between the lift pump and the fuel filter .

ronsram , i got that rebuild kit from a local speed shop , gave them the number i posted and they got it , the parts descrip says its a strainer kit ??? anyway it does exist .

C1B1 , what pump are you using to get 18 psi at idle ? thats a bit high ????

 

[Shawn.L.Turbo]

Since for the most part it sounds like you have fuel pressure and boost, maybe the problem with the power isn't the engine at all... ... . since you have the auto transmission, maybe the TC is not locking up and you are getting some serious slippage?

I would have expected an engine problem to show up as low boost pressure or something somewhat noticeable.

My . 02

Shawn

 

[MikeR]

I agree with Vaughn and mopar-muscle,there's nothing wrong with the lift pump. If you've never retightened your intercooler hoses,then I think you be in for a suprise on how loose the clamps will be. You also say it's kinda 'all of a sudden',so I'd say you got some low quality fuel.

About the drain valve... don't worry about it not flowing. It seems the majority (00-01)don't flow. These cannisters are way different from the 98-99s. Try this... Open the drain valve,then take off the black cap at the injection pump inlet and push the schrader open with your finger... fuel will pour out.

-Mike

 

[TKilgore]

Thanks for all the input and keep it coming.
The TC locks up just fine and I keep the intercooler hoses torqued all the time.
Has anyone verified a bad tank of fuel will decrease performance that much?
Also, I have always had fuel from the drain valve until now.
When I changed the fuel filter last (which was after this problem started) it was almost like there was a vacuum in the canister although fuel was present.
BTW, my fuel pres gauge is Post filter

Tom