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12 Valve Fluidampr Install With Pics

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Well, after only 7 months, :rolleyes: Fluidampr released what I hope is not the final version and mounting kit for our 12 valve engines.

The dampener itself is a well made piece and made a noticeable difference in engine smoothness.

The sensor bracket was updated since the pictures posted by Hammer.

No longer a hollow spacer, but a spacer with a stud on one end, and threaded for a bolt on the other.

The wiring harness extension I threw away and soldered my own wire to lengthen it. :rolleyes:

Also available is a kit to install 2 roll pins in the dampener and crank.

The jig bolts up to the crankshaft to center up the drill bit (included) to drill the holes for the pins.

Problem is there is about 6 inches between the jig and the radiator, (with shroud removed).

I had a right angle drill, but was a no-go due to length.

I ended up using a air rachet with a socket modified to hold the drill bit.

Had a helper use a long bar to apply pressure to rear of air rachet to aid in drilling due to the slow speed.

What a PITA!!!!! :eek:

The wiring harness is a joke as you will see in the pics.

A cheap 3 prong plug with what I call "scotch locks" type connecters that are made for a 3 wire connection instead of a 2 wire splice like we would need if used.

I just took the sensor pigtail and soldered a 14" wire extension with shrink tubing.

Then installed it in a wire loom.

The sensor bracket is a simple bolt on using existing bolt holes.

It is well designed, but should never have taken this long to make.

I feel Fluidampr really drug their feet on this one.

I was in contact with Lynn at Fluidampr, and was told time and time again when the final product would be ready to be shipped, only to be told about delays.

When I did finally get a date that it was ready to be shipped, I received only the bracket, jig, and wiring harness.

No dampener!!!!!! :mad:

I contacted Lynn about this and was told they had none in stock.

WTF!!!!!!! :mad: :mad:

I was part of the group purchase that Doug at PDW had set-up back in December.

I had told Doug to hang on to the dampener until the kit to mount to a 12 valve was made.

Had I have known it was going to take this long I wouldn't have bothered.

I contacted Doug, and he was told the same thing as me, that a dampener would be shipped out by Fluidampr.

He got back to me and told me he would overnight one to me.

This was great customer service from Doug and PDW as none of this was his fault.

I hope there will be a better wiring harness made in the future, and not have to use the joke that was included.

Also, it was necessary to cut the factory connecters off to splice in the harness.



Now, overall impression.

The engine revs smoother.

My shifts, (DTT auto) feel a little firmer.

Driving while in lock-up is much smoother, not as jerky.



Would I recommend this?

At first, with all the run around and confusion, no support from manufacturer, and installation problems, (drilling for roll pins), probably not.

But now since installed, I think on a modded engine, stick or auto, it is worth it.



Pics in next post



Brad
 
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Pics:



The dampener:

#ad




Compared to stock dampener:

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Sensor bracket:

#ad


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Roll pin jig:

#ad




Wiring harness and connecters:

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Installed bracket and sensor, side view:

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Underneath view:

#ad




Brad
 
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This was exactly my experience. I received my install kit 2 weeks ago and the wiring kit was a JOKE. It is basically trailer wiring with some connectors that have no business in an engine compartment. I ended up using weatherproof butt connectors which worked out well along with a wire loom to hide everything, it looks factory now. The bracket itself is not bad, but I do not see how they could not have use the original mounting location with some different studs and an offset bracket.



Now on to the good news. It does rev MUCH smoother over 2000 rpm. Under that speed it feels basically the same. Basically now, running at 3000 rpm feels just like 1500 rpm as far as smoothness goes. When I finally get my dual disc clutch in a couple weeks, I hope that it will smooth out the noise and harshness associated with those clutches seeing as they do not have dampening springs. :D
 
wildmanben,



I'm not drilling mine for the roll pin. My damper only has 1 hole for a pin. Too much work for me. With the cost of fuel these days,I drive like an old lady now anyway. Most I rev it is 2200rpm tops.
 
The Fluidampr is a great addition to anyones truck,if they can handle all the BS getting the parts to do the job. I know personally first hand how long they jerked Brad around and was one who helped him recieve his parts.



I do not agree with their hilljack engineered wiring harness and how poorly it was thought through. It looks like something a grade school kid thought of and will not do the job it was intended to. Its a shame you all had to wait for something that was produced like that and personally,I would rather lengthen the harness on the bench as Brad did before I'd use a connector like they give you and all the patchwork scotch-lok connectors.



BTW. .

Thoise who did buy them in your kits they will tell you that you HAVE to go out and buy new bolts to hold the dampr onto the crank and not to reuse the factory ones. However,when you look at your factory repair manual they tell you when removing the original dampr for something the bolts are to be reused and can be retorqued. I know from prior usage of this dampr on other install we always reused factory crank bolts without any problems and am not sure why they are demanding the new ones here. I know in mine EEP reused them and reuses all of the crank bolts when they do others when the crank is pinned.



Its easy to see once owners see the wiring harness that Fluidampr will be answering alot of phone calls about it... ... . Andy
 
Thank You Brad & Hammer for the pics of the mounted sensor. I had to reference them a bunch of times. Fluidampr's directions were not that good. At first I thought that the sensor mounted in 2 open holes on the block, but thanks to the pics you need to R & R a timing gear cover bolt (top) and a timing gear housing bolt (bottom). Also the pictures helped because there is allot of adjustment on the bracket itself.



80% of the job is modifying the wiring harness. Fluidampr should have had a vendor make a longer harness that would plug into the OEM connectors. They would not have needed a new sensor, just an extension.



I had a scare when I noticed that once the harness went into the plug for the sensor, you lose your color coordination. In other words the engine harness colored wires do not continue into the actual sensor harness. The wires go way down in size also (16-14GA to 20-22GA?).



No way I was going to get stuck w/ mismatched connections so I cut the sensor harness about ½ of it's length and added new wire. I left both OEM plug-ins. One side of the sensor harness has the middle wire with a white tracer. This is how I rewired it without messing up.



I figured I would need about the same size wire as was in the kit from Fluidampr,(14-16GA), but really needed much smaller diameter.



I bought 2 insulated clamps figuring I would need them, but didn't. I just reused the one that holds the sensor harness to the block. The smaller one, not the ¾" one that holds the plug. I attached the longer sensor harness to the drivers side timing cover bolt reusing the clamp. About the 3rd one down.



It's a tight fit getting the damper up onto the crank w/ the fan. Just take your time and it will go.



When I started it up, I noticed a much smoother idle. I have only driven about 6 miles but the engine seems to be much smoother. I like it so far.
 
Now isn't that slick looking blue wire loom sexy,Whooooo... . Hooooooooo.



Glad To Help Bill and just wait till you get a chance to run the RPM's up a tad. I "used" to drive like a old lady with mine but found out recently first hand how bad these trucks stop once they have laid the 4g tach to rest on the bottom and run the speedo out of numbers. It all started with a Supra and Corvette on my way home from work,but,thats another story for later. However,the engine was as smooth due to the dampr and know it was a worthwhile addition. Now I need to address the tach issue for more numbers and address the lack of stopping power... ... Andy
 
You guys have a torque spec for the damper to crank bolts? I cant get a accurate 60° rotation of the wrench like the fluidampr directions say... .



I have mine installed and like it. Im seeing an improvement over stock in the same areas others have mentioned. Oo.
 
Have to remember guys they arent in the wire harness or bracket business.

They are in the damper business for competitive use.

Give'em a break! :{ :rolleyes:
 
6BT-Dakota said:
Just crank it till u strip it and back it off a half turn

:D

You must have seen the collection of helicoils in my shop at some time or another



As far as the harness, I dont see the big deal, I didnt even use there stuff, Just took off the harness and soldered about 8 inches to it on the workbench with some shrinkwrap and wireloom you cant even tell it was done.
 
I plan on installing mine this weekend, along with my tach.



But i have a problem, the tach i bought from autometer uses 4 signals from the damper, and the stock damper and the fluid damper uses 2 signals

well i already (foolishly) milled 2 more grooves in the fluid damper.

so my question is what is going to happen to my factory tach???

will it read double (which i think it will) and will 4 signals from the pick-up mess with anything else??



If it does read double can i just remove a wire from the back of the cluster for the tach??



And lastly,

What else is the factory pick-up use for??





Michael
 
wildmanben said:
Pretty sure that it will read double. The factory pickup also runs the charging system and the A/C.





Since it runs the charging system do you think it will effect it having 4 signals??



Michael
 
It may not charge since it thinks its seeing 6000rpm, but thats a speculation. It very well might work too. I think that it would, cause the pcm looks for a signal to charge, but I dont think that the rate of blips affects it, maybe I am wrong though. Just try it and find out I suppose.
 
For extending the wires, just take off the factory wire loom, undo the factory electrical tape, then simple pull the wires for the tach out and rewrap the other wires, takes 5 min's, you don't need to cut or spice anything. I hope nobody elses tach sensor adapter stud breaks off in the front case like mine did with 18ftlb of torque on it... very nice :rolleyes:
 
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