Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 12 valve governor spring kit

[larryj]

what does it take to install the governor spring kit

in the P1700. pump & where do you get the kit

will I have to change any thing else at this time

is it something I can do at home

98 twelve valve

 

[Lucas5477]

It does not take that long to do. You can get the springs from peirs diesel. There is an opening on the side of the P-7100 where you can get to the springs. So go from the top(where the fuel plate is).



Lucas

 

[Jdimig]

there are 2 kits available. the 3,000 rpm gov. kit and the 4,000rpm gov. kit. the 3,000 kit comes with all new springs except the largest one. the 4,000 changes all the springs in the pump gov. with the 4,000 kit you have to install 60# valve springs, due to the higher revving of the motor. if you got a exhaust brake already, then you just have to change out the pump springs. the 3,000 kit does not require you to change your valve springs. i got my 3k springs from tst. piers also sells the springs. there are 2 ways to install the springs, from the top of the pump, or the side of the pump. is has been noted that going in from the top is very hard. i changed my springs from the top and didn't find it all that difficult. just take your time, you should get directions in the kit. youll absolutely love these springs. they make the 12v come alive.

 

[Lucas5477]

Here is a pic of the p-7100 in the red is the window you open to get to the springs. just turn the engine over till you see the springs.



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[PaulG1]

Lucas,



Now thats a really helpful picture - thanks.



Would you also happen to have one of the pump with the fuel plate cover removed so the plate is visible - or something similiar.



Does the TDR have a picture archive - for all these helpful pictures - would seem to be a good resource. I'm a relatively new member but haven't seen a picture archive.



Thanks,



Paul

 

[Cooker]

Here is a pic taken from Dave Frtiz's site showing the governor springs from the top.



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[onstottc]

Lucas-



Got anymore pictures of the guts of the P-7100? I'm dying to figure out how they work.

 

[TrqMonster]

gsk question

While on the topic of GSK kits, I bought a #11 from TST at TiM and was going to buy the GSK kit. However one of the guys at the TST booth said that I would have to run at least a #10 because with the #11 it would make my truck run worse than stock.



Can anyone elaborate a little bit on this? Of course I would rather have went with the #11 but not sure when I can get a new clutch to handle more power.

 

[hsmith]

Re: gsk question

Originally posted by TrqMonster

While on the topic of GSK kits, I bought a #11 from TST at TiM and was going to buy the GSK kit. However one of the guys at the TST booth said that I would have to run at least a #10 because with the #11 it would make my truck run worse than stock.



Can anyone elaborate a little bit on this? Of course I would rather have went with the #11 but not sure when I can get a new clutch to handle more power.

I ran the #11 for a long time before I installed the 3K kit and adjusted the gov. lever. The extra power was unbelieveable. I have since been able to adjust the plate and gov. lever to bring the power back down to the level I need while towing my wife's wigwam.

The gov spring kit is one of the best mods you can make!

hsmith

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

Paul, PDR's kit has some decent instructions and pics to help.



bob

 

[Lucas5477]

Sorry, I only have pics of the out side of the pump.



Lucas

 

[mkhenry]

I went in from the side. No problem if you remove the fuel shutoff solenoid lever. 8mm bolt and the shaft has a woodruff key so no worries about setting the lever back to the same spot.

 

[bighammer]

Originally posted by onstottc

Lucas-



Got anymore pictures of the guts of the P-7100? I'm dying to figure out how they work.

PM me with your email address, I have some cool diagrams I can send back. (internals of the pump, governor, plungers/barrels, etc.

 

[DHorstman]

I just finished installing piers 3K kit into my '98. Seemed like a PITA too me. Might have been due to my ABS brakes, too much junk in the way.



I did find one spring set at . 076" and one at . 055", set both new springs in the . 055" range. Idle came down about 100 RPM, now 800 in neutral. It does pull all the way too 3,000 now, but seems to have lost some low end. That should be taken care of by the #6 plate tommorrow.



Don't know if it was just my retainers or what but I couldn't get a definite feel for the clicks that some refer too. I could tell when the adjuster wasn't seated all the way, just wasn't real clear on the clicks so I went with the caliper method--hard with limited access.

 

[Lsfarm]

The clicks

DHorstman, yes the 'clicks' are hard to feel on some pumps. I usually try to get a feel for each set of springs by marking the stock position and backing off then returning to the stock position a time or two. Then I remove the spring retainer, swap the springs and reinstall the retainer.



The anti lock brake hardware is a PITA to work around, but going in through the top of the pump is worse.



It sounds like you got it right, as long as it idles and runs smoothly through the rpm range. If you want more power now, you can slide the stock plate forward and get some free HP if you want.



Have you killed the KDP and bumped the timing up yet??



Take care. Greg L

 

[DHorstman]

Greg,



No on the KDP on this motor, need to stop at the Cummins shop and get another front cover gasket and crank seal. I did the spare motor in the garage already.

No on the timing.



I am gonna go in and check my spring height again. One may have jumped, jumped on it right away after installing the #6 plate and stalled when I let off. It idles now at about 700 with a very slight lope.



Both my retainers were marked with yellow paint from the factory.



Power is much better now, but still no tire shredding power off the line. It will break them loose when brake torqing it. Plate is centered on the bolt holes, I slide it forward for more fuel correct?



Only a slight haze of smoke behind me on full throttle.



LOP,

Don't mean too hyjack your orginal post. If you'd like I'll start another thread.



Dan

 

[SMorneau]

The profile on the torque plate is about and inch long no matter what. If you add the GSK you are essentially dividing up the same 1" span to be used with a wider range of RPMs ( idle to stock upper RPM vs. idle to modified upper RPM). So if deepest part of the profile is in the center you will now have to hit roughly half of your governed speed to allow the maximum rack travel. It follows that if your new upper RPM range is 3000 instead of 2600 you will not get into the deep part of the fueling until you are a couple of hundred RPM higher. Less fuel at say 1600 rpm than you used to have.



Moving the lever that contacts the plate to a higher spot (closer to the center of the profile) will get you fueling faster but it will also bring you out of the fueling quicker as RPMs rise. You will not be using the lower area of the plate. So you are throwing away a usable part of the plate that you could tailor to your needs (clutch nursing, smoke control, etc). It seems to me a #10 plate is pretty much a #11 plate that has been adjusted for the difference in span the GSK gives.



If I made sense of that you should now know why a GSK can cut your power if you don't change the plate.

 

[Deezul1]

See sig, 417 hp with #11 plate and 4K GSK the #11 plate DOES NOT make it run worse than stock. Heavy valve springs are not needed unless you use all 4000rpm. I seldom go beyond 3400 and have not floated the valves yet and dont intend to go any higher than that. The 4K GSK may not help much with an auto trans as I believe the trans wont allow higher RPM when not shifted manually so a #3K kit would be a good choice.

 

[Jim Fulmer]

The 4K GSK may not help much with an auto trans as I believe the trans wont allow higher RPM when not shifted manually so a #3K kit would be a good choice.



There are variables to this, if the pump is not tapped out(doing all it can) then the 4k's will help it, one thing the 4K's will do is let it fuel harder on the bottom. I did the 3K's once upon a time in my 180 pump, then went to the 4's and noticed a we bit more, but I didn't have the pump knowledge I have now



Jim

 

[RT66DOC]

So even if you're not much interested in turning over 3K rpm, the 4K springs will add more to the bottom end? I've been wondering about this since I learned that the 3K springs fuel more at the bottom end than stock, i. e. , if 3Ks increase bottom end more than stock does it follow that 4Ks add more low end than 3Ks?