14 hours later, I got it all installed.

[Sticks]

That was a long day.



I was supposed to have help from a coworker, then he canceled. Short notice I tried to get someone I used to work with at another shop to help, he had plans. Then I tried a buddy of mine, he tweaked his back the night before.



1. Replaced head bolts with ARP studs

2. Installed Jammer 3 injectors.

3. Installed HTT 3pc exhaust manifold.

4. Installed Source Automotive twin kit, including switching out my turbine housing with a divorced wastegate housing on my OEM HX35 (lost an hour dealing with the spring clamp on the compressor housing before I figured out a different route ).

5. Installed 4" exhaust.



After a brief attempt to go home, I had to return to the shop to put on the clamp for the intercooler boot I forgot, and fix an oil leak at the oil filter housing... ssst "OUCH!" (exhaust manifold and turbine housing on top turbo) 1/16 turn... . ssst "OUCH!" 1/16 turn... ssst "GAHHH!" 1/16 turn... (repeat 8 more times).



That was a hard drive home trying to keep the right foot from getting anxious. I was able to keep the boost under 20... barely.



First impressions - I still need to retorque the studs 4 more times before I return to normal driving. Not looking forward to having to pull the intake rockers every time and valve adjust but it's gotta be done.



Boost does spool quicker, obviously, and does seem to be about 3 psi higher than prior at highway speeds.



EGT's down 200* from average driving, but does take longer to return to shutdown temps.



Nice to hear the turbo whine again, but I hate using oil type air filters. Going to find a way to get my BHAF back in.



Still need to get my US gear exhaust brake put back in, and revamp my Water/Meth supply intake with a screen (got gunk in my tank )



Will update when I get to play.

 

[Sticks]

Did the first retorqe yesterday, then a drive to my inlaws (25 miles highway). Kept the cruise set at 70. Boost definitely runs 3+ PSI higher and EGT's are 200+* lower. In fact it is nice to see the boost climb as fast or faster than the EGTs. Going to have to adjust my Snow Perf Water/Meth settings. Currently set at 50% duty @ 15psi, 100% duty @ 22psi. This was the point in mountain driving that the hill was steep enough to drive my EGTs over 1150*.

Got on it a little bit getting back on the highway on the way home and felt a little surging. Almost felt like the pump was defueling. Not hard enough on the throttle for clutch slippage. I still need to address the boost issue with the Edge Comp (I still get over boost codes) before I try to identify other problems that may exist.

More to come...

 

[drag racer]

Who / why says the ARP head studs need to be re-torqued 4 times ? !

 

[Sticks]

The really sketchy instructions that come with the studs recommend "preload to torque 4 times", and the guys in service at Source Automotive say "Torque them down, get it to operating temp, cool and break loose then retorque in sequence, drive gentle a couple of days, and do it again, 3 more times. "

3 down, 1 to go.

 

[drag racer]

The purpose of what ARP is stating is to get a good wear in between the nut and the stud threads prior to the final tightening to insure the proper amount of preload of the bolted joint. They also recommend the same thing for their connecting rod bolts.

Personally, I think the process you are doing is causing you tons of unnecessary effort removing the valve cover and intake rockers. The way I would have done it is the first time you installed them on the engine, that's when to do the tightening in sequence, and back them off - repeat 3 more times. Then put everything back together and run the engine and get it hot once, then let it cool, and then merely retorque in sequence at the full value one time. Done.

 

[Sticks]

I appreciate the input. I am just following the recommendations of the shop that sold them to me. They have more experience with these aftermarket items that I do, especially since I am using my OEM gasket.

Yeah it is a PITA, and I would have just as soon have done it once and been done with it, but it is only taking about an hour from pulling out the tools to putting the last tool away. Gives me something to do that I enjoy since I rarely touch an engine at work.

 

[drag racer]

No prob. You know opinions on the internet are worth what you pay for them. The way you are doing it certainly isn't going to hurt anything. ARP studs are going on mine for sure if/when the need or opportunity arises. Oo.

 

[WDixon27]

i loosened and retorqued mine 5 or 6 times over a couple months and got a little more on the nuts for the first 3 or 4 times

 

[DCreed]

On a stock gasket w/o removing the head, multiple re-torques are over kill. but on a fresh gasket or esp. Orings, the re-torques are essential as the new assembly will compress and "bed in". I blew 3 HGs this year, 1 WITH orings/studs because I pushed too hard too soon. Take the time to do it right or you WILL be doing it again.

 

[Sticks]

OK, as always when tweaking performance to this magnitude, I get anxious. A bit like the first time I hooked up my Edge Comp and turned it on, half expecting my VP to shell in the next 10 seconds.



Now, I installed the studs, and drove about 17 miles, most of it at 2k rpm, and kept the boost under 20. Sat overnight then retorqued the studs in the morning. Drove 25 ish miles the same way breaking the 20 psi boost a couple of times but not over 30. Drove to work the next day and it sat for 3 days before the second retorque. Took another drive of about 10 miles and pushed it a bit more, Edge on 3x3 and broached the 40 psi mark once. Did the third retorque, in the morning but no extended drive. I have opted to wait a while and work it a bit before the final torque.



Seat of the pants driving change... oddly I do not notice much other than higher boost. The same thing happened with the Edge on the first runs. I think I was either tensed up or expecting too much.



Now when I am doing my torques, the engine temp is probably close to 30*. Not sure how much metal contraction there is and if that would make a difference in metal stress and clamping force at operating temps.



All my experience with blown head gaskets is #1 engine overheat, and either coolant in the oil, and/or in the intake. None of them a Cummins, so I am not sure where or what to expect if it does happen. I have been checking oil and coolant level before each drive, and watching those gauges for anomalies.



Where do they usually blow, and what are the symptoms? I. E. Wife's Ford Mustang 3. 8 between cylinders 1&3 and 4&6 into a water jacket, overheating, not enough to wash the cylinders or get coolant into the oil. Detroit 2 stroke V6, between each cylinder into a water jacket, overheats and fills the crankcase rather quickly, ultimately hydrolocks. Ford 7. 3 Diesel IDI, hydrolocked after shutdown.

 

[DCreed]

Mine blew oil EVERYWHERE! it came out the front next to the timing cover and blew into the fan and that threw it everywhere else! WHAT A MESS! but, no damage or mixing of anything. I had a friend lose his and all it did was blow coolant out the overflow and/or consume it from the overflow.

 

[Sticks]

OK, update time.



I still need to do the last re-torque on the studs. I've put 400 miles on it since the completion.



Overall impression - Me likey a lot!



Starting to relax a bit more when driving, and now I can notice a power improvement.



I've played a bit with the Edge Comp mostly on 3x3, a few times at 5x5. The highest boost I have seen is 43 psi.



Gears 1-4 are moderate, but 5 & 6 will definitely let you know she's running hard. Highway manners are touchy running 60 - 70. She will jump 10 mph with little effort. Cruise control 1mph increase (READ - 1 second press of the button) will bounce your head off the headrest.



No leaks. Engine temps running as normal. Odd noise (clicking) driving with cruise control (a little concerned with the rockers - some of them are not pooling oil on top).



I think I may have even gained 3-4 MPG. That or my fuel sending unit is flaking out on me. I'll find out at the next fill. 300 miles and sitting at slightly under 3/4 tank.



I still need to fix my water meth injection, get rid of that oiled air filter and get my BHAF back in, install my exhaust brake, install a mechanical boost fooler (still getting defueling if I run around the 20-25 psi mark). The turbo whine is nice, but annoying after 1/2 hour. Oil changes are a PITA.



Need to keep my eye out for another local dyno day.

 

[DCreed]

OK, update time.



I think I may have even gained 3-4 MPG. That or my fuel sending unit is flaking out on me. I'll find out at the next fill. 300 miles and sitting at slightly under 3/4 tank.



I still need to fix my water meth injection, get rid of that oiled air filter and get my BHAF back in, install my exhaust brake, install a mechanical boost fooler (still getting defueling if I run around the 20-25 psi mark). The turbo whine is nice, but annoying after 1/2 hour. Oil changes are a PITA.



Need to keep my eye out for another local dyno day.

you have been babying the go pedal so mileage WILL increase.

BHAF does NOT flow enough air for twins, thats why you got the oiled cone. You can use a non-oiled version but it MUST be high flow! I (among others) have pulled a Amsoil 4510 inside out with twins! dont forget you now have TRIPLED the CFM of the intake! You can find an AFE prodryS here: advanced FLOW engineering - Universal Filters, Clamp-on Filter w/Pro Dry S oil-free filtration me

just find the biggest one that will fit for best results. if turbo whine is that bad, make an enclosure for the filter and sound deaden it towards the cab.

 

[Sticks]

you have been babying the go pedal so mileage WILL increase.

Actually the last 300 from this fill up was running beyond my normal driving habits. The Edge has been on in one form or another after I hit operating temps. Normally I keep it turned of, or 1x1.

BHAF does NOT flow enough air for twins, thats why you got the oiled cone. You can use a non-oiled version but it MUST be high flow! I (among others) have pulled a Amsoil 4510 inside out with twins! dont forget you now have TRIPLED the CFM of the intake! You can find an AFE prodryS here: advanced FLOW engineering - Universal Filters, Clamp-on Filter w/Pro Dry S oil-free filtration me

just find the biggest one that will fit for best results. if turbo whine is that bad, make an enclosure for the filter and sound deaden it towards the cab.

I thought I remembered reading the CFM requirements for the Source Auto twin kit w/stock top turbo over the S400, but I can't find it. If I knew the numbers, I would be able to start running some product options.



I am just not comfortable with oil type filters. Seen too much carnage.

 

[Hammer]

I am just not comfortable with oil type filters. Seen too much carnage.

I find that statement rather amazing... .



Here is a guy who is worried about a "oiled" air fitler creating carnage yet when he does a twins,injector and head stud install he doesn't remove the head and have it o-ringed. Throw those parts alone at most trucks and the gasket will end up as carange let alone run your Comp Box on 5x5 and throw water meth at it yet. . sheesh.



I'll say what I have said many time over here again...

There is nothing wrong with a good quality oil-based air filter,except the man who over oils it once its cleaned. Most times many will over oil them and then replace them right back on the truck without allowing them to sit and have the excess drain. Instead they end up with residue all over inside their charger and sensors which create issues and then they blame the filter. In my dirt track program(sprint car/dirt late model)we run ONLY oiled filters and have many many laps on the cars and many wins with those style filter. I have never had a oil-based air filter failure and have never seen any excessive wear inside the bores due to those filters. Proper cleaning and proper fit will give you the service out of that style filter for as long as you want it too... ... . Andy

 

[DCreed]

I thought I remembered reading the CFM requirements for the Source Auto twin kit w/stock top turbo over the S400, but I can't find it. If I knew the numbers, I would be able to start running some product options.

I just told you, 3x stock. a compound kit often runs 2:1 pressure ratio, so @ 60psi you are moving about 1800cfm.

 

[Sticks]

I find that statement rather amazing... .



Here is a guy who is worried about a "oiled" air fitler creating carnage yet when he does a twins,injector and head stud install he doesn't remove the head and have it o-ringed. Throw those parts alone at most trucks and the gasket will end up as carange let alone run your Comp Box on 5x5 and throw water meth at it yet. . sheesh.

If I was at sea level, or even 2500' or lower, then those factors would be taken into account. If I raced the truck and was an all out speed demon, then those factors would be taken into account. Ergo, O-ringed head, cam, DD clutch, drive line... etc.



My driving is at 5280', and mountain pass climbing to 12k'... There is no air up here. Probably never going to see 60psi, let alone 50psi. The primary reason for these upgrades was to keep my EGT's down and be able to run the speed limit while empty or towing up to 5k# over theses same mountain passes, be able to return to the speed limit without cooking something if I get polish road blocked, and the occasional playing around in town if I feel the need.



I've driven my truck enough with the stock manifold, stock turbo, worn out 80hp injectors, Edge Comp, W/M injection and stock exhaust to know what temps she runs at, where my boost levels are, and how much W/M I will consume on a given mountain trip. That info allowed me to choose what upgrades were needed to overcome the weak points.



I have already done more pushing with the latest upgrades than I should have. I am fairly confident that with my current configuration I am not going to break 50 psi of boost running empty. I sure as heck am not going to push that hard with cargo (in bed or towing). The most aggressive running with a load this truck is going to get is a dyno run to see where I am at.

I'll say what I have said many time over here again...

There is nothing wrong with a good quality oil-based air filter,except the man who over oils it once its cleaned. Most times many will over oil them and then replace them right back on the truck without allowing them to sit and have the excess drain. Instead they end up with residue all over inside their charger and sensors which create issues and then they blame the filter. In my dirt track program(sprint car/dirt late model)we run ONLY oiled filters and have many many laps on the cars and many wins with those style filter. I have never had a oil-based air filter failure and have never seen any excessive wear inside the bores due to those filters. Proper cleaning and proper fit will give you the service out of that style filter for as long as you want it too... ... . Andy

I worked for several years as a shop technician where if it was a diesel engine, we worked on it. 90% of our business was the "Big 3" pickups. Every single one that came in with an oil-type air filter suffered damage from pulling dirt through the filter media (compressor impeller damage - worn fins). And of those engines, regardless of make/model, the ones suffering the worst problems I have written 13 death certificates on the engine due to low compression (175psi and lower) and high cylinder leakage (30% and higher).



Great filter for track running, bad for daily driver/work truck when the only maintenance it is likely to see is every 5k, and we all know that a 60 mile drive down a dry dusty dirt road is enough to clog a new filter, especially if you are following another vehicle.



I had an AFE cone filter kit installed on my truck, with a sock. The first time I took it off, to inspect, I had dirt trails in my intake. This was not from poor connections, this was dirt pulled through the media (dirt collection on the inside surfaces of the filter). Enough for me. As a diesel engine technician with over 6k hours of engine diagnostics and repair experience in a 3 year period, I strongly recommend against the use of these types of filters for the average vehicle owner. I am my own service center, I know how to properly clean and maintain oil type filters, and I will not use them. To each their own.

I just told you, 3x stock. a compound kit often runs 2:1 pressure ratio, so @ 60psi you are moving about 1800cfm.

There we go. 1800cfm. I did not know what the stock CFM requirements for this engine is.



So, if I did my calculation correctly and your info is correct, 1800 CFM = 57. 9 m3/min (some info is in metric).



Having done some research just now, I found that the OEM air filter flows approx 140 CFM (WIX replacement). Part Details



The NAPA 2790 flows 680 CFM. Part Detail



The AFE Pro DryS shows 416 CFM (not specific to part number)



Amsoil EAAU 4510 - no specs (shows 350 for the 3050 and 1000 CFM for the 4090 based on a 5. 0 mustang- apples and oranges)



Unable to locate the CFM of the Volant 5118 (I think that is what came with the twin kit).



Still trying to find out what the OEM CFM requirements of the 5. 9 ISB are because 1800 is starting to seem a bit high with a compound setup, but I am not an engineer.

 

[DCreed]

1800 is peak flow through the chargers, you prolly will never use that much but the more the merrier. Also that 1800cfm is @ 60psi MAP when ambient pressure is 14. 7psi.

 

[DCreed]

Unable to locate the CFM of the Volant 5118 (I think that is what came with the twin kit).

IIRC Source is/was using S&B filters?