16 cm or 12 cm housing? Actuator questions..

[Joseph Donnelly]

The exhaust manifold continues shrinking over the years, especially if you add fuel and get it hotter. Eventually it breaks the bolts (usually the top one in #6) or breaks the ear off the head. I don't recommend welding the fifth gear nut, as that damages the heat treat of the shaft.

 

[Bob Beauchaine]

You can see what I am running in my sig. I bought the Banks kit 20 years ago with the 14cm wastegated hot side and it and the 3 gauge dash pod are the only things left of the original Banks setup. About 12 years ago I bought the charge air cooler used in the early non IC Dodges. That IC is about 40% larger than the OEM IC and produced the largest egt drop of 100 degrees of all my mods. Towing just over 8000 lbs up Cabbage Hill in Eastern OR (desert floor to about 4000ft). I can maintain 65 mph except for the switch backs and cannot get egts to 1000 degrees. I usually see a max of 900 all the way up. I've got the wastegate set for 35 psi.

I have seen a lot of posts on the 16 and 12 and both seem to be very good at reducing egts, compared to the stock set ups. If I had to replace the 14 I would go with another 14. It comes down to personal choice about what works best for you and the setup you are running.

As far as the 5th gear nut goes what I have seen posted is lugging in 5th at about 1400 to 1500 rpms is what causes the majority of 5th gear problems.

Bob

 

[rebar]

About 12 years ago I bought the charge air cooler used in the early non IC Dodges. That IC is about 40% larger than the OEM IC and produced the largest egt drop of 100 degrees of all my mods.
I have seen a lot of posts on the 16 and 12 and both seem to be very good at reducing egts, compared to the stock set ups.
Bob

Which intercooler?

Id love to replace my 1st gen IC, but can not use the newer IC's because the inlet/outlet are 9" down. I can do 8" down due to my hood latch.

The exhaust manifold continues shrinking over the years, especially if you add fuel and get it hotter. Eventually it breaks the bolts (usually the top one in #6) or breaks the ear off the head.

So when, or after how much shrinkage does this become a problem and should I oblong #6 and #1 bolt holes to prevent breaking them? My manifold is 4 mm short, total.

 

[Bob Beauchaine]

rebar

That I/C was a Banks I/C. It was not cheap around $800.00 or so. Not sure if they have any left but it's worth a phone call. They used them on a kit for the pre I/C 1st gens.

Bob

 

[CToney]

Rebar I would use the 16 cm housing with a turbo blanket from Levi at Turbo Performance Products. You'll have faster spool up and more boost along with lower under hood temps. I'd put an aftermarket exhaust manifold too. One thing that helped my first gens were larger inter cooler pipes. I had a set of cooler tubz. They were 3" with 2.5" to 3" boots. Spool up will improve with them and lower egt as well. Pusher intakes makes a similar intake pipes. You should be able get decent power with injectors and some pump adjustments.

I have a couple Dana 70s with 4.10 gears with low miles that you could have cheap but they're out of C&C dodges. Sounds like a cool rig that you have.

 

[rebar]

I'm almost ready to try the 16cm and clocked comp. Iv been reading about the power screw and wonder whether it might be worth trying even though I already have enough fuel atm.

The blankets would definitely keep the van cooler, but has anyone had oil coking because of higher temps the blanket would hold ?

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Im not conviced 3" intake is worth it when I haven't upgraded my 1st gen IC yet. I still haven't figured which IC would work without cutting inner fender wells.

 

[CToney]

I wouldn't be worried about coking the oil. You'll only run into that problem if you shut it down too soon after a hard pull. The blanket keeps the heat energy where it belongs, spinning the turbine. You'll have lower egt and less smoke. The Center section should stay cooler as it's not getting heat radiating from turbine housing on it. Non wastegated housings benefit the most from a blanket.

3" pipes make a huge difference. I have a strong (compared to stock) CR truck pulling our 1000Gal water trailer up the same hill with it I can accelerate up the entire hill. With our 93 W250 3.54 gears, NV4500 16 cm housing, 40 hp injectors, and cooler tubz I can accerlerate up the same hill with the same load at the same speed. It should be 200 hp 600 ft lbs compared to the CR trucks at 400/800. You wouldn't believe the SOP feel of just installing the passenger pipe. The drivers side helps a bunch too. The turbo I think spins freer as there is a larger volume of space for it to fill with air. I think your egt will drop 100 degrees with the pipes.

If you lower your egt with pipes and blanket you can add more fuel and still keep egt safe at 1200 F.
3200 rpm governor spring, M&H dynamic timing spacer, and turning a few screws and you'll have a lot of usable power. I might have to get another first gen to tinker with...

 

[rebar]

With the vans current space , there's no way to get 3" installed on the cold side. Period. And a system will always want to flow what the smallest opening is, imo.

If I relocate my electrical box, and hack out some inner fender wells, I might be able to use that odd ball skinny 2" dodge IC. 07 I believe it was. Then, I will tear the crap out of everything and do 3" since my IC is the bottle neck right now. Then the horn, which I have delete plate for. Or weld new end caps.

The black pipe is retired and Iv got a straight shot now. :-laf

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As far as my VE pump, the only thing I can really get to now is the power screw.

 

[mhuppertz]

When i switched from 18.5 to 16 my truck came alive! I like at 7,000 ft. And there is turbo lag if you punch it at low rpm, but it is worth the kick after. I am using a Stage IV compressor upgrade, POD's, maxed timing, maxed fuel cone cut, maxed fuel pin, eased setting on the star wheel as so not darken the sun, arp's, etc.

 

[rebar]

When i switched from 18.5 to 16 my truck came alive! I like at 7,000 ft. And there is turbo lag if you punch it at low rpm, but it is worth the kick after. I am using a Stage IV compressor upgrade, POD's, maxed timing, maxed fuel cone cut, maxed fuel pin, eased setting on the star wheel as so not darken the sun, arp's, etc.

I hope your right mhuppertz.

I haven't even had the van out yet as I dont drive much and the damn weather got cold and icy again.. Plus, my vans roof gutter's bondo repairs are starting to pop and need attention..

Always something

 

[ofelas]

I,ve never tried a 16cm housing, but going from the factory 21.5 down to a 14cm Holset with Banks BHA makes it a different truck

 

[rebar]

Thanks..

The vans on the road now and I did see less turbo lag and a little more boost with my 16cm housing, but not really any SOP change.. Egt probe is now pre turbo, and temps seem lower even though I didn't record what they were running unloaded.

The governor spring is what I really need. If I could get the motor to spin up to 3000 rpm.. I could easily get into 5th gear at a better no lag rpm. Is this video the correct way to install it?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3wSkV-5ozWA

And I guess I better order the blanket for the 16cm housing. But I cant get the pump loosened up to advance 1/8"

I really want to hook on to my toy-hauler to test, but I dont even have a tank of fuel run through the rebuilt engine. Everything except the pistons were rebuilt or replaced..

How many miles, or tanks, should I have on it before I tow hard?

Thanks again..