175 hp Ram roars!

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The Hi Flow delivery valves go a long way to eliminate the 1100 rpm stumble, on the 96 and newer pumps they remove it completly. On the 94/95 pumps I have heard of them not entirely taking away the stumble, but a couple clicks on the gov. springs or the gov. spring kit & the stumble was reportedly gone. Both of the fellows who had 94's were running 215 inj.

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Piers

 

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Hemi or Piers:

Prior to the installation of the "Pro-Torque" torque converter I never noticed the "stumble" before. Do either of you think the addition of a "BD Pressure Loc" will help at all? The line pressures are high now with the "BD Valve Body. " I can definitely feel this pressure when I put the truck into reverse. However, when towing my 18 foot racing trailer in the mountains (i. e. I-77 in
West Va. etc) I couldn't be happier with the performance! The new torque converter and valve body have stopped all the slippage and hesitation when you "roll into the throttle"
at speeds between 30-70 on 4-5% grades. I'm not "unhappy" with the transmission upgrades but would like to get rid of the "flat spot. "


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Red '96 4x4 2500 Auto 3. 54, TST #5, Pump Mods, Banks Exhaust, Prime Loc, Cummins Chrome Kit, Pro-Torque Converter, BD Valve Body, Sendel 16" Alum Wheels w/ 33" BFGs

 

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John, you are about at the hp point where bigger injectors are the next thing to get. You need to decide on the conservative, stock type 215s or the major power 370s. New they cost nearly the same, but slightly used, cleaned and balanced 215s are available at times (a friend at my Bosch shop does them when he has really nice trade ins) for less. Depends on where you want to stop in the hp game. If you know you will want more than 30 hp gain in the future, don't waste time and money with the 215s, go straight to the hp kings, the 370s. If you are starting the truck in cold weather a lot, driving short trips in the cold, etc. the extra fueling of the 370s may give you some white smoke until the engine warms up and that may annoy you or the smog nazis in your area. The delivery valves are more important with the 370s, but if you are getting them anyway, that drops out of the issue. In general big injectors give more ow end torque which helps with a tight converter. The more torque = fueling they have, the more chance for a stumble, especially with stock delivery valves on a relative small version of the P7100. As far as Piers and I have been able to discover, there really is not much the pump shop can do that some dedicated messing around on your own wouldn't accomplish, perhaps even better. Pump shops in general have little if any experience with the kind of stuff we are talking about. Bosch only trains them to do stuff to factory specs. There are a few exceptions, of course, like Piers at BD, and I can do similar stuff here in Vegas at the local shop but that is done in concert with Piers and his work.

Hope this helps.
Joe

 

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Ok Joe, How would the 370s do with the #12 plate for winter driving? BY the way great article in #29.

I also am wondering if I where to put a 16 CM2 housing on it I would lose just enough bottom end to make the plate change unnessary. Right now I am very happy with the way my truck towes!!!! And as long as I keep the RPMs down below 2500 my EGT are OK. (below 1250)

I was thinking hard about the superturbo, but thought I would let Forrest be the ginnypig, but he's dragging his feet.

I have 87K right now and will probibly need injectors within 15K and I've pretty much desided they'll be the 370s.

What I really need is another RAM/CUMMINs a 2WD to drive daily and leave my other one for towing, & camping. Actually what would really be neat would be an AC corbra replica with the 12 valve under the hood. A 2000 pound SMOKING rocket. #ad
<font color=blue><font=4>Can you say FUN</font>

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Dee'sel
97 2500 Club 4X4 3. 54, Forrest Green/Driftwood, LSD 5 speed, K&N Air filter RE0880 & Psychotty, TST #11 all the way forward, #12 for winter, AFC spring kit, Geno's Exhaust Blanket, TST EGT gauge & TST 0-60 boost gauge in A Pillar, Hypo clutch ass. , Cat-be-gone, 4" Dynomax Bullet muffler, Crome 4" turn down, AmsOil ser 2000 75W-90 in Trans, Geno's trans filter kit, AmsOil ATF In Transfer case, AmsOil 15W-40 Oil W/ Bypass system, AmsOil Ser 2000 75W-90 in front & Rear ends, Lund Winter front, Leer Cab Level Shell Driftwood , 235/85R16 Goodyears, Dyno'd 342 HP *NRA/USPSA member and proud of it*

 

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Whether you use a 12, 11, or 10 it should be in stock position with the HX35 to keep egt reasonable. The 16 (or 18. 5) housing is mandatory with the 10 and a good idea with the 11. 370s and the 10 put you into HX40 territory to cut egt, and the hp gain is a bonus. Piers and I were the guinea pigs. The HX40 works. It 's not just a matter of compromising to get lower egt's. The extra airflow on the exhaust and extra boost map efficiency give a good hp gain, although you don't usually associate airflow by itself with more hp on a diesel. Similarly, the 16 gives a hp gain over the 12 with fueling/hp like you hve now (342 hp, right). I run somewhat more than a 10 with the HX40 and 370s all year round. If you want zero smoke and low (probably 400-500 ft lb) torque, use a 2low kit from BD in the boost line going to the AFC. With zero boost going to it, you can still make 25 psi on the 18. 5/HX40 with zero smoke. Come down to Vegas for a vacation but don't leave your $ in the casino. You will be a lot happier getting the parts I just talked about. You can get a ride in Sickly to verify they work. That is, if you want about 100-150 hp more. #ad

Joe

[This message has been edited by Joseph Donnelly (edited 08-21-2000). ]

 

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Drawson,

I own a 97 5sp, 3:54, 33” tires, 20% US Gear under drive, and full 4” BD exhaust. I have run my truck with 300 and 370 injectors in combination with several cam-plates and with the 14cm waste-gated housing, 16cm non waste-gated housing and the 16cm HX40 turbo from BD.
I just recently pulled a 25’ travel trailer and misc. items (GCVW of 16300 lbs. ) round trip from Seattle to Chicago traveling I-90/94. I began the trip with the BD 370 injectors, # 11 plate, stock 12cm HX35 and BD exhaust brake. The fuel plate was in-stalled slightly back from the stock position to maintain Egts below 1350. The truck pulled easily through the mountain passes with excellent low-end power with little to no smoke. However, I was still able to reach Egts above 1350 at rpms above 2600 on very hard pulls at highway speeds. I very seldom needed to pull pass 2600 rpm; I only did this to find the Egt limits. When I stopped in Bozeman, MT for the night, I decided to install the 16cm housing to see what affect it would have on Egts, low-end response and smoke. I made no initial changes to the fueling; I just changed housings. The next morning I was very surprised when pulling the hills leaving Bozeman. I noticed only a small loss to low-end response, which was corrected with a simple adjustment to the AFC. I did pick up a very minimal amount of smoke in the low-end under hard acceleration but noticed no difference above 1600 rpm other than lower exhaust temps. It was now extremely hard to reach exhaust temps above 1350. My max boost reading was 34 lbs. (I believe that this value would have been higher as I had damaged the O-ring on the compressor side when I installed the 16 housing. That’s what I get for working in the dark! I did not realize that this had occurred until I returned home and switched back to the HX40). The truck was able to pull all day in 5th on cruise at 75 mph (2000-2100 rpm range). I never really needed to downshift due to lack of power, just due to the speed I wanted to drive. I noticed that my truck pulled the best when I kept the rpm in the 1900 to 2100 range. The 370 injectors I received from Piers are outstanding and the only thing I enjoyed more was the BD exhaust brake, which I can’t say enough about. In fact, the reason I was not run-ning the Hx40 was so that I could continue to use the brake.
On a fun side-note, this set-up was able to beat a new Chevy 1500 2wd V8 by a few feet. We raced on the 355 expressway from a dead stop out of the tollbooths to the off ramp for highway 55 south, just outside Chicago. I was given a big smile and thumbs up from the Chevy driver. I am now convinced if I was running my Hx40 and #10 plate instead, I would have never been able to see that far back for the congratulatory thumbs up.


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97 SLT 2500, 5sp, 3:54, 285/16, US Gear Under-drive, BD Hx40-16cm, BD 370 injectors, TST #10 plate, BD full 4" exhaust, Centerforce Clutch, and a few other items!

 

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Ok Joe you got me. I guess it time for the 16 CM turbo housing.
From what I recall with the TST#11 and the 16 CM2 houseing in the stock location is 300 HP.
Does this mean I'll be at 365 HP with the 16 CM2 housing?

DBR, you are as crazier as I am changing housing on the vacation. I was also just back from a short trip towing my house trailer and had moved my Torque plate back to the stock location and the first night I got board(what my wife says) and pulled the houseing and moved the plate all the way forward again. I've done it so often I can do it in less than 30 minutes and always have the tools in my carpet kit on the truck. The rest of the trip was much more fun!!!!!!

 

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Joe:
I just got home from work and got on my computer to check and see if you had posted a response to my questions. Thank you
for taking the time to answer. Your answers
have helped me alot! Do you have a shop phone number where I could reach you? Thanks again for the advice Joe!

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Red '96 4x4 2500 Auto 3. 54, TST #5, Pump Mods, Banks Exhaust, Prime Loc, Cummins Chrome Kit, Pro-Torque Converter, BD Valve Body, Sendel 16" Alum Wheels w/ 33" BFGs

 

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What are the pros and cons of moving the sock torque plate forward and adding a 16 housing on a 95 5spd

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95 3500 diesel cab & chasie 5spd 4x4, 97 3500 diesel Ccab 5spd 4x4, 97 ", 98 Qcab ", 2001 3500 diesel Qcab 6spd 4x4

 

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Moving the stock torque plate adds a bit of power but you lose the zero position for stock fueling. See old posts for more. The TST plate adds a lot more power for a modest price, and it goes into the stock position so you can easily go back to stock if you want to.
The 16 housing has also been hashed a lot on the forum. In general you get 20-30 more hp, as much as 200 deg lower max egt. Spool up is a bit slower (more noticeable with automatics) with a little more smoke.