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18" OEM wheels question for Gen.3

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AAM 11.5 - Axle shafts and Gears - failures?

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How much material needs to be removed from the opening for the 18" OEM forged wheel to fit a 3rd gen hub?

I’d have to measure it, but I’d guess not more than .75” on the radius.

It won’t effect the structural integrity of the wheel, it just allows those with spin free kits to install the wheel.
 
BACK THE TRUCK UP!!

The 4 gen hubs have a different center register size than the 3 gen hubs? I thought Ozy’s main issue was to clear his free spin kit in the front.
So the 4 gen wheels are not a direct bolt on to 3 gen hubs?
 
It comes 14mm more Inward to the Vehicle, that was bothering me for clearance issues, but it doesn't seems to be a problem.

Check out the link i posted previous to the Reifenrechner Page, scroll down there and you see a picture showing what happens when changing.
 
BACK THE TRUCK UP!!

The 4 gen hubs have a different center register size than the 3 gen hubs? I thought Ozy’s main issue was to clear his free spin kit in the front.
So the 4 gen wheels are not a direct bolt on to 3 gen hubs?

They are a direct bolt up, unless you have spin free hubs.

The 4th gens wheels, aside from steel, are not compatible with the spin free kits unless you machine them.
 
Oh, so the hub register/ design is the same as 3 gen? That’s much better. I was getting confused. Machining the outside for the hub locks is not a big deal. You just need a big lathe.
So to be sure on this, the 4 gen steel wheels will go right onto a 3 gen truck, perfectly?
 
Oh, so the hub register/ design is the same as 3 gen? That’s much better. I was getting confused. Machining the outside for the hub locks is not a big deal. You just need a big lathe.
So to be sure on this, the 4 gen steel wheels will go right onto a 3 gen truck, perfectly?

Gen 3 yes, gen 2 yes and no. The fronts are not an issue but the rear centering hub on the Dana axles is larger. 17" wheels are a direct bolt up but 18 and 20" wheels have a smaller opening. Found that out the hard way.
 
From what I can see it is not really the main wheel hub-centric piece that is the issue, it is really just a cover on the outside that has to be addressed. The 20's I have bolt up fine on a 3rd gen the unit bearings, but, the cover around the center needs to be machined out to let the free spin hub thru. That cover on my wheels is not structural, rather just a cover anchored to the main wheel. It will likely depend on the style of the wheel as mine are different than a lot of the chrome ones.
 
Yes I opened up the end that holds the plastic center cap so the Free spin hub would pass through. I'm still working on a better center cap idea to fill the hole for when the wheel is on the rear axle. If I was going to do it again I would probably use the free spin hubs from Ram Man. They use the hub unit from Ford trucks and are way shorter. I believe the stock 4th gen Ram wheel will fit over the hub with out any modifying just leave the center cap off. to allow access to the locking knob. I had pics of my wheels and hubs on here only now I can't find them. When I get a chance I'll have to take some new ones and post them.
 
2018 18" steel wheels and hub caps on my 05

IMG_0106.JPG
 
Looks like I'm going to be the Guinea Pig as I have a Dynatrac free spin kit! It's hard to ignore the ratings on the 18" tires! I'm currently lurking on Craigslist to find a set of the 6 spoke wheels depicted in the attached photos. I note that this is an Alcoa US manufactured wheel. I will have a local machine shop machine out the centers on one and once we have it nailed down do the others. I do not have nor care about hub caps as I want to rotate. I'm okay with the industrial look. :)

18x8 Dodge Ram 2500 3500 OEM Wheel Rim 2013 2014 2015 2016 1UD27TRMAA 2474 - front.jpg


s-l1600.jpg
 
Flash forward I just scrapped my factory longhorn wheels that I had opened up the outside holes on. I could not get them to balance. 4 tire shops. Lug mount on two machines and every time I went out of state onto smooth roads the truck would shake your fillings out at speeds above 65. I went with a set of ProComp aftermarket wheels now it’s smooth right all the way to 90. My advise Don’t waste your time on re working the factory wheels to fit your free wheel hubs.
 
Flash forward I just scrapped my factory longhorn wheels that I had opened up the outside holes on. I could not get them to balance. 4 tire shops. Lug mount on two machines and every time I went out of state onto smooth roads the truck would shake your fillings out at speeds above 65. I went with a set of ProComp aftermarket wheels now it’s smooth right all the way to 90. My advise Don’t waste your time on re working the factory wheels to fit your free wheel hubs.

Thanks for the heads up. The idea of going with a machine shop is to see if they can do the cut out on a lathe to keep it round. This is where the project could end either because it cannot be done or it's too costly. If I get past this stage on one wheel then I will take it to Discount Tire to see if it will balance. If one balances then I will pull the trigger on the other wheels. I will have to get a good deal on the wheel purchase and since I run two spares I will likely have to purchase two sets. The alternative would be to purchase aftermarket wheels but I have always found that the offset to be too great on aftermarket wheels. I want to keep everything tucked into the wheel wells.
 
I hear ya . I spent quite a bit for it to not work out. I should have just gone aftermarket from day one. 18” wheels the choices are slim. My offset is a bit more than I like but.... the price was right for the procomp’s.
I had really good good luck with Vector wheels but I didn’t like the style available in the 18” size.
 
I was looking at the Method 701 HD - 18" x 9" - 8 x 6.5 18mm offset and 5.75" back spacing. The OEM 17" wheels are 44mm offset and the OEM 18" are 57mm. I don't know the backspacing for the OEM wheels. I spoke to Method and they state the 18mm offset put the tire right at the edge of the wheel well. That will work as I also have fender flares which give me a couple of more inches. I also note that the Methods have a 4500 lb load rating. Most of the 18" tires have a load rating between 3600 and 4000+ lbs. I don't know the load rating on either OEM wheel so I will have to research that issue. All good for the Methods but they are $362 each before tax and I need 6!!! :eek:
 
3rd gen factory back space is 6.25", 4th gen is 6.5". Factory rims are rated at 3500 lbs but that is not necessarily the manufacturer rating, it is what the Dodge decided to assign them for the axle weights.
 
I think done on a lathe there shouldn't be a problem with unbalanced wheels.
Dont go with 18mm Offset, you'll probably touch the wheel well at the front axle steering to full lock.
 
I think done on a lathe there shouldn't be a problem with unbalanced wheels.
Dont go with 18mm Offset, you'll probably touch the wheel well at the front axle steering to full lock.

+18MM to +25MM is ideal actually, no issue with the front axle touching, if anything it would be the rear of the front fender but thats wont be an issue here.
 
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