Here I am

1977 Ford Crewcab 4X4 with Cummins power (hopefully)

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

???? (Cummins in an S10)

Online source for HPCR engine wiring diagram

Well my fuel tank was originally built for the 460 that I removed. It was a 60 gallon unit I built a couple years ago. More fuel less fill up. Then I modified it in the conversion with the dodge sender and pickup. I cut the top out of the tank and built a ring to attach it to the top of my tank. I used a cork gasket to keep it from leaking. Then later after about five moths I replaced the stock L. P. with a F. A. S. S. for more performance reasons than any. I will post some dash pics in a couple days just been busy.
 
DavidWhite said:
I too will start a 78 Ford crew conversion soon, and will be watching your thread closely. I just picked up an 01 Cummins w/5sp & xfer case. curios on what to do for the clutch pedal assy. I'm also looking @ the Michelin XL & XZL 11:00/16's. The Military surplus dealer near my office just got a dozen pallets or so of them.

Hey David look for the newer style tire that is a 16 from the gov. i think its a 325x16 not sure but they will ride better then the one you are looking at. if you need a connection for them let me know I can get a complete set like new for $750. 00



Val
 
Simplysmn, If you don't even know the size or model, how do you know they ride better? Most people don't buy huge mud tires for the ride quality. 325X16 is not even a proper size format. I'd be interested if you could provide more information.



The truck started last weekend. The harmonic balancer and crank position tone wheel were so bent, the crank position sender couldn't read them. Of course, the warranty on the motor has expired so I'm stuck buying new ones from Dodge ($250+). Hopefully the crank isn't bent. The motor died as soon as it started and threw a crank position code. I can't tell you how frustrating that was.



I installed all the driveshafts and my step-dad, John, stepped-in to help with some of the welding. He welded up the 4" downpipe and fabbed the cover for the floor board, among other things. He was a BIG help and allowed Ray to work on the wiring.



I was unable to find ANYONE who was willing to give me any information on this site or cummins-conversion.com. Luckily Ray is an excellent mechanic/fabricator and was able to figure it out by looking at wiring diagrams. I've been around a few mechanics in my time, but Ray is by far the best. He soldered every connection and sealed it all with shrink tubing. It looks really clean and will last forever. I have found a L0T of information on this site and I thank everyone who has tackled this stuff and found time to post their experiences. It gave me the confidence to attempt this swap in the first place.



I'll post some more pics soon, I just got back from Christmas in Montana. I just have to remember to take my camera with me to the shop.



RSP, I was reading your post. Sorry that some people don't understand that a Cummins motor surrounded by a mediocre, Mexican-built truck does not a great truck make. In my opinon, the 73-79 Ford is the best looking truck series ever built. With the exception of the smog choked motors, the 78-79 F350 is the toughest truck ever made. Add a Cummins, and I can't imagine a better styled or stronger truck. I won't get into the Ford, Chevy or Dodge debate but consider this, Ford F650's and F750's are available with a Powerstroke, Cat, or Cummins-your choice. The Cat outpowers them all (on paper anyways-I've never driven one). It would be cool to have a F650 with the Cat motor, Crewcab and a big cab over camper to haul my 1970 Bronco to Moab!
 
Well, it looks like my motor has a skim module and now it won't run. So I'll have to figure that out before I can go any farther. If anyone has some info on this, please let me know.
 
Yes - when they did mine we hit the same wall. Fortunately, Ken & Dawna invested along with the fellow who did the electrical work and now have the computer, software, and expertise necessary to program the ECM to work without the SKIM. Give them a call... they are autoworld on TDR.



Autoworld: 406-727-8915



Mark

-



KellyClark said:
Well, it looks like my motor has a skim module and now it won't run. So I'll have to figure that out before I can go any farther. If anyone has some info on this, please let me know.
 
Getting closer. Ray sent the ECM to AUTOWORLD. Apparently they send the computer to another shop down the road. Doug Alm does all the wiring for them. His phone # is (406) 771-1688. I couldn't find his number in the phone book, information, or anywhere else. He is very knowledgeable. Dawna wouldn't give me his phone number, but Ray was able to get it from Ken. Doug has said he is willing to help anyone who needs it. Hopefully I'll get the computer back by Friday.



The pics speak for themselves. You can see the divorced T-case with the stubby driveshaft, rear 14 Bolt axle and Carter booster pump, custom Johnnie-built 4" downpipe with fiberglass header wrap, wait to start light (wired off the hot side of the heater grid relays) and the custom Ray-built tig-welded upper radiator hose. Ray is prouder of the wait to start light than anything else on the truck.



So far, the only stock part of the truck left is the body and frame. I have replaced every other major component. We still have to fab an accelerator pedal, battery tray, air filter box, and the lower rad hose.
 
ARRRRRGGGGGGGHHHHHH! I probably could've drove the damn thing home if both the *@%$&*! rear bleeder screws hadn't snapped off. The rear calipers are from a Cadillac El Dorado and run about $120... ... ..... each. I'm not real happy about it.



Autoworld MT sent the 'puter back, and the truck starts and runs fine. Cost is $250 plus shipping.



I was able to drive the truck around the shop, in 4 low, without any boost. The intercooler doesn't clear the hood, so I cut off the upper mounting flanges and Ray tig-welded them back on in a different position. Should work now, but the grill will have to be cut down almost paper thin. Every part of this truck has to be modified or custom fabricated to run the HPCR Cummins. It will still be worth it, but it's slow going.
 
Last edited:
KellyClark said:
I was able to drive the truck around the shop, in 4 low, without any boost. The intercooler doesn't clear the hood, so I cut off the upper mounting flanges and Ray tig-welded them back on in a different position. Should work now, but the grill will have to be cut down almost paper thin. I'm not real happy Every part of this truck has to be modified or custom fabricated to run the HPCR Cummins. It will still be worth it, but it's slow going.



Sounds like you have my luck. !!! stick to it, man. . !! One creative fix / fab at a time. . !! This is a helluva lot cheaper than therapy... . :-laf



Linc
 
Nice Job!!!!! :cool: Looks like it came that way from the factory! Just looks a little odd seeing a blue oval in the middle of a Dodge steering wheel, but nice finishing touch.
 
I will get pictures of my grill into the gallery soon. Mine appears stock/original but is 1/2" thick and made of square tubing except the corners.
 
ITS ON THE ROAD!!!! I've been driving it for about three weeks without any major problems. Put about 1000 miles on it. So far, I figure I've been getting between 15 and 20 miles per gallon. Waaayyy better than the 6-7 with the 460.



I've had a few little snafus:



I got it stuck in the snow my first night out (I couldn't help it) and wound up overheating the powersteering. Even after a fluid change the pump growls and steering is difficult.



It shudders pretty hard when I shut it off. Not sure what might be causing this.



A mild vibration at high speed under heavy acceleration. The T-case mounts are soft and I think its moving enough to cause the vibration. I'll have to fab a brace like the stock trucks have.



My Edge won't work without a speed signal and I'm not sure how to make one work. The stock Dodge has the VSS on the rear axle.



I'll post more pictures soon.
 
Back
Top