1993 W250 Front Brakes

[ABGordon]

Hi,



I just purchased my first pickup, because it had my first diesel under the hood. The diesel makes a very sweet sound, I don't think I have heard such music before.



Come to find out, the front brakes are shot and the rotors are pretty badly gouged up. I have done a lot of brake work on cars, but the 8 bolt pattern on this truck is scaring me off a little. I have the factory manual, but it is still unclear to me what I am going to be dealing with. Do I need to purchase a 1-11/16 socket? Are the front wheel bearings inside the hub/rotor? When I reassemble the parts do I have to set front wheel bearing clearances? Is it advisable to replace the front wheel bearings as long as I have the hub removed? What is the gasket that the factory manual says should be replaced when I reassemble the hub? It look like the caliper is grabbing, since the outer pad is shot but the inner doesn't have much wear. How do I evaluate if the caliper is bad? I'm inclined to reassemble everything and keep an eye on pad wear. Is that a good idea? I haven't been able to find a step-by-step on replacing front rotors, like the step by step that is here for the KDP.



I am selling my 1971 911T to pay for this truck, so please someone have pity on this newbie.



1993 W250 169K

Springfield, VA

 

[cerberusiam]

Here are some pictures and a parts break down for the Dana 60 front axle.



http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/



You need a socket but it is one with raised tangs not a nut type socket. The bearings are inside the hub and come off with the hub. Use the standard techniques for checking for wear. If they look good pack them and drive it. There is a seal inside the spindle that you should replace also. The schematic on the above site should show it. There are specs for setting preload but if you do it by feel it gets pretty close. Ask away for any other questions and somebody will jump in. Welcome and good luck.

 

[dpuckett]

CALIPERS

If you are getting wear on one side, but not the other, I'd go ahead and replace BOTH of them. Same brand, same parts house. That way, you start "new" with even stuff, or so the theory goes. P. O. replaced left caliper on my 91, and it always pulled a little left when you hit it hard. I got both calipers with steel pistons for under $50 exchange. Not sure what new ones go for. I'll find out when I need them again, though.



Be sure to flush the old fluid out of the entire system. You'd be surprised what the stuff gets to looking like after just a year or two.



Sorry cant help on the 4x4 part of it. From perusing my FSM, it'd be an all day job, eps with my luck ,and old Murphy hanging just around the corner from where ever I happen to be.



Daniel



PS- welcome to the funny farm.

 

[ABGordon]

Cerebus,



Thank you for the advice, even from 3-headed dog it is most welcome.



Where do I get the socket. I searched this site and came up with OTC 7518 as the likeliest part number, but when I plug this number into NAPA's website it doesn't recognize it.

 

[ABGordon]

DPuckett,



Thanks a lot, I didn't realize I could get new calipers for so cheap. I have two on order @ $52. 99 ea. For this price the calipers are also supposed to come with brake pads inside. Hard to believe.



Thanks again,

Alan

 

[Philip]

The socket I have for my $X$ front axle is a Snap On brand. The number is 56146. You might check and see if NAPA can cross that number to their line of tools.



Be sure and replace all three rubber hoses on that front axle. The outer ones take a beating when you turn. I have seen mine crack in two years or so. So I have just set up a routine and replace them every two years now.



The parts are down pretty cheap now for this series of trucks. I just replace everything whenever I have to do a brake job now.

 

[ABGordon]

Philip I already ordered 2 hoses from the dealer, one for the left side and one for the right side. Where is the third hose?

 

[ABGordon]

Snap-On web site does not recognize number 56146

 

[ABGordon]

NAPA could not cross over OTC 7518 or SNAP-ON 56146. Thinking I may have to unleash my large vice-grips on this bad-boy.

 

[Philip]

The third hose is from the frame to the axle. Look under the harmonic balencer. That is where it is located.



I bet Snap On changed the number.



NAPA has the brake hoses in stock most of the time. It is cheaper there

 

[MMiller]

Just use a hammer and punch to remove the outer(lock) nut the first time and take it to napa or a drive train shop to get the correct socket. Pay close attention to the ring in between the lock nut and the preload nut. It has little holes in it and the preload nut has a small pin in it. If the pin is sheared off, then get at least the inner nut. What you do is set preload on the bearings with the nut with the pin on it. Then you have to line up a hole in the ring up with the pin, and the tang on the washer with the groove in the spindle. Sometimes flipping the ring over will get the hole to line up, but a little adjustment to the preload nut will get the pin to line up. Next set the lock nut as tight as you can get it. The preload on the bearings doesn't change and the outer nut locks the inner nut so it doesn't come loose, in theory anyways. I jack up the front of my 4X4's often, especially after using 4wd. The preload tends to back off, and then the hubs get a little loose.



The other thing I strongly suggest is get some good caliper lube. The calipers on all 4 dana 60 fronts I have hang up from time to time causing the truck to pull hard one direction when braking. If you truck sees pavement only this is not a big deal, but all my trucks see some mud, dirt, etc and this helps the calipers to hang up. I fought this for a long time in my 93. Changed calipers, pads, to no avail. After putting on some caliper lube, the problem is solved. I also run aluminium wheels and have noticed that the pads from napa put alot of dust on the wheels. I went and got OEMs from dodge,(read $$$) and the dusting quit. They last a long time too. I threw the originals away at 140,000 because I thought they were the cause of the pull. Even at that time they were still very thick. Yes I know they were originals because my dad bought it new and I have had it since it has had 25,000 miles on it.



Just some thoughts, and some leasons learned on my trucks. Welcome to diesel truck ownership, I'm glad you chose an "ole Dodge" for transportation. Like said above ask away, we'll be here for ya.



Michael

 

[BSchindler]

Hey Guys, there is no pre-load on front wheel bearings. After outer lock nut is torqued to 160-205 ft. lbs. there should be . 001 to . 010 of an inch end play in the spindle. With Timken bearings and a rotating hub and a stationary spindle---no preload.

 

[Paychk]

Tips from Timken.



http://www.timken.com/industries/au...chtips/VolumeIIssue3AutoTechTipsFinal0104.pdf



http://www.timken.com/industries/automotive/autoaftermarket/techtips/AutoTechTipsNo2Final.pdf

 

[AlK]

I purchased the socket from NAPA. It is from Ultra-Pro part number 62808.

 

[MMiller]

Sorry about the "preload". I tighten the inner nut until there is no "endplay" and no more. Just the way I have been taught to do wheel bearings. Maybe its wrong but I have had failures do to loose bearings and none to no endplay setups.



Besides the 16" wheels on my truck will not allow much endplay before they rub on the caliper.



Michael

 

[ABGordon]

Thanks to you all for the guidance, especially Michael for the detailed how-to replace the rotors. Those directions sure read a lot clearer now that I am done. I did use the caliper lube, and am hoping to pass Virginia safety inspection tomorrow a. m. Turns out the hardest part was finding that d@#& socket. Thanks again!

 

[MMiller]

Glad that we could help. I wondered if you got it on the road or not. Its funny how the instructions make more sense when you're done, isn't it.



Michael