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1st Gen Stage 1,2,3,4 performance steps.

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Brake Help

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Fantastic job on the WIP!



I don't know what I'd do without the internet & the contributions of so many. Thank you, thank you!



The only other things I'd like to see added, if at all possible, is the impact on fuel mileage & parts longevity of the various stages. Don't expect hard #'s but something like: FUEL MILEAGE -- INCREASE/DECREASE & likewise for parts longevity would be nice. Listing parts that would most likely prematurely fail would be even nicer (I can dream, can't I?).



Don't know about others but I'd like to see that type of info bc any upgrades I made to my (future) Cummins would be aimed at improving fuel mileage & longevity. If as a side-effect, HP/TQ improved, all the better!
 
p7100 stage 5

been there done that



if you add a p7100 unless you move block forward

or go to a nv45oo w/ 2nd gen spacer at trans , the

7100 will hit the master cyc



i did the 4500 and spacer it moved motor fwd 1''



p pump cleares master cyc now by 1/8 inch

and had to grind frame



also best to use all 1st gen fan and front stuff on the motor as

2 nd gen motors have fax off set some



i bet you guys did not know this



:confused:
 
drives mopars,



We must have been lucky, we put a '96 engine in my sons '90 and we have about 1/2" clearance between the back of the injection pump and the master cylinder :confused:



We also used all the front end components off of a '93 so we could use the inter-cooler, etc.
 
I enjoyed reading the good information in this thread. I think that a change should be made in the "Stage 2" section regarding VE injector pump timing, however. It talks about increasing the timing advance to the 15*-17* range and says that 15* corresponds to a 1. 40 mm setting. My truck is a non-intercoolled one and the stock setting is 1. 40 mm, so if it is stock, it needs no modification to get to the 15* setting. The stock timing is not the same throughout the 1st generation engines, so the language should reflect that, I think. Thanks for the good work. I am enjoying my subscription and looking forward to making my truck better!
 
Bob, please forgive me for not posting this sooner. I will bow my head and say 5 hail accelerations and take a 5rwhp penence.



OK, about the expected gains from porting the exhaust. Two people I have done this mod for have reported the same results.



1. Quicker turbo spool up. In fact, Eric W. showed me he can make 10psi just by stabbing the throttle in neutral.



2. Cooler temps. Eric reported a 150 degree reduction in EGTs while cruising. Before I did mine, I could get 1450degrees pulling. Now the best I can make is 1350.



3. you don't make more boost (ok, maybe a little) but you make it sooner and that's where it's at.



Dave



P. S. I wish I could figure out a way to take pictures of this and post them. But a camera can't take pictures around corners. If someone has an old cracked or in general ruined manifold I could port it and cut it in half so the work could be seen. I have an old exhaust housing already.
 
I dont know about the other mods but I just installed a 16cm housing on my basically stock truck, wow what a difference! sure brought up the bottom end and smoothed out my idle! I can't afford gauges yet so more mods will have to wait and I am worried about how much my auto transmission will take with out beefing it up.

Proto
 
I think we need to build on the ve "alterations". What we have here is just too vague.



I think we should list the alterations, like a fuel pin, governer spring, sanding the washer under the aneroid, delivery valves and the such.



Does that sound like a good idea?
 
CB, now dotn get your shorts in a bunch because no one wants to follow your fingers of fury. I think all the (declassified) VE mods have been beat to death- ditch the washer, take a Dremmel to the fuel pin, or if you have a rich girlfirend, or you're Jonh Kerry, have HER buy you an Old Smoky pin. Governor spring AND adjusting the high idle speed. There are a few more things to take a Dremmel to... ... but I cant tell ya just yet. Or can I? Pastor Bob?



BTW- how long is YOR spring break? I figured a week, and you'd be back in Moscow. Or is there trouble in paradise?

Daniel
 
I noticed the 16cm housing is a stage 1 upgrade, by the end of stage 2 the auto transmission is pushing the limits, and the HX35 turbo upgrade is listed in stage 3. I ordered the PDR HX35/16cm housing combination to replace my turbo. Does this mean I have to keep a weather eye on my auto transmission?



Thanks again everyone on this board.



Alan



93 W250 A/T stock 169K (A/T has 50K)
 
cooling

At some point, especially out here on the desert, you are going to have to put in a bigger radiator if you want to pull heavy loads up long hills and not have people on bicycles pass you. I've even had to turn the heater on on hot days.
 
Don't worry about the turbo. Torque is what kills the transmission... not the turbo. Yeah, the torque comes on sooner with the better PDR turbo, but it's not enough to cause a problem.



It's when you start adding fuel to match that turbo that you start causing problems.



As for the radiator... I second that. In the Weenie, pulling up passes with those big injectors and 12k in trailer/load, the water temps got a little warm. They never got out of control, but they sure got up there.
 
Thanks and more specific questions

Great article, Bob.



My dad is building a 1953 Hudson Hornet tow car using a used 1990 12 valve. The question is/was how to get more hp through boost. Air in, air out works. A direct inflow through a coned high velocity filter (aFe) takes it in and a 4 inch exhaust is being fitted. Gages are already fitted to watch rpm, boost and egt. Looks like the next step should be the turbo housing. Where should I look for a different housing? Dad will be happy with 50 more hp. He things he should be ablt to do more than 85 mph empty asnd tow any hill at 65 if he can achieve the 50 .



All comments , suggestions welcome.



Ray Graber. San Diego
 
Air filter

The high flow air filter elements such as a K&N not only allow the maximum amount of air to flow in they also allow the maximum amount of DIRT to flow into your engine as well... . Oil sample test reports show this to be true across the board! High levels of Silica in the test reports is the first sign that there is a problem with the air filtration system. Silica is what kills engines! This is a real problem in the south western states where the silica levels in the air are already high... . Don't believe what the filter makers tell you with their test reports. . They want to sell you filters... Believe what the oil test reports say that YOU send in ! The best thing to do to a first gen air cleaner system is leave it alone... Just keep clean filters in it that belong in it...

The 93 filter box had the best flow of all of first gen trucks. perhaps change to a 93 box... If you really need greater flow than that just get a filter assembly off of a Freightliner or a Peterbilt and bolt it to the outside of your fender like the big rigs do... It might look goofy and take out a few pedestrians but you will have plenty of flow and real clean oil... . LOL :-laf



{QUOTE} 2) Replacement of the existing OEM air filter: By using an aftermarket, high flow filter and opening up airbox/use of aftermarket airbox you will permit the maximum amount of airflow, properly filtered, to reach the turbo charger.

There are a number of options in this

** Availability: There are a number of options in this field. Some of the more well known examples are the AFE, K&N, BHAF (big honkin air filter).
 
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