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2 Micron Filter Kit

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Is there an inexpensive (or more importantly, easy to install) 2 micron filter kit? I have the stock lift pump (I carry a spare) and stock fuel filter assembly.



Suggestions?
 
GDP makes some great stuff, or you can build your own.



All 2um kits are cheap compared to a new injector, or 6.



Look at the link in my sig for what I did.
 
I installed the GDP kit on my '03. Comes complete and filters after the stock filter. I recently changed the 2M filter and cut it open, it was like brand new inside. It was in use for over 30K miles, but could have gone much further.
 
pm me with your email address and i will send info and pix on the best. the info is for tank mounted pump but just run two hoses from the filters to between the stock filter and pump total cost $120
 
Others here will disagree, but my stock in-tank pump (long gone) would not satisfactorily push fuel though the stock filter and a 2 micron filter. I could pull the pressure down to 0 fairly easily. I'd recommend a better pump for a dual filter set up.
 
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Others here will disagree, but my stock in-tank pump (long gone) would not satisfactorily push fuel though the stock filter and a 2 micron filter. I could pull the pressure down to 0 fairly easily. I'd recommend a better pump of a dual filter set up.



I'll be the first to disagree. I have been pushing thru 3 filters (25,5,2) for over 40K miles and have never seen below 4psi, even on SW3 (+100hp) tune on the Smarty Jr. My psi sender is after the 2um and before the CP3.



If you were getting to 0 with a 2um your LP was probably failing. A pump in good order has no issues pushing thu 2 or 3 filters.
 
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i have been pushing through 6-2-10 for many years no more drop than stock this is my first attemp at photobucket tell me if it worked. a paste of pm's below.

we mount the filters just forward of the fuel tank. we run a fleet of dodges and recently installed one on a 06. there is two bolts through the floor board for a rear seat option at this location. some of our trucks use them others do not. get a 2" x 3" piece of angle iron 6" long. make a card board template that the two bolts and keeper nuts will go through hold the template on the inside against the 2" part and drill the two holes they will be about 5/8" i think and about 3 7/8 " between. center the holes on the 2" and near the edge on the 2" hold the angle iron over the bolts with the 3"part the furtherest away from the tank and drill a 1/4" hole between the two holes, keep drilling through the floor board. now after you mount the filters to the angle iron just simply mount it with a 1/4 grade 8 bolt. this is the only hard part the other items is easy. the total time including building the bracket is about 1 1/2 hours. i will give you napa numbers but they can cross reference to wix or car quest. the two bases are 4770 the water separator pre filter is 3374 the 2 micron filter is 3674. use a 3/8" nipple with about 1/2" space in the middle connect the two bases together observing the in and out. because of this the mounting plate on one filter base is about 1" further out than the other. install two 90* 3/8" barbed fittings on the bases and temporary bolt the angle iron up and hold the filters up to it. make sure everything clears and mark the one base that touches the plate to drill the three holes to mount the filters. next cut the feed fuel line at this location and bend the lines out a little and install 3/8 hose over the lines and to the barbed fittings. i put a small amount of flair on the steel lines. but i do not think it is necessary. Bleed the air out through the stock filter before trying to start it. use a gauge and do not change the filters until you see a four pound drop this should be about every 150,000 miles and the stock filter will never need to be changed.



the dirty one i used cheap steel bases and cut new threads on the inserts on the lathe to fit the filter. your filter base has two inlets and two outlets on each base be careful to connect the nipple between the outlet of the first filter to the inlet of the second. only one of the bases get's the bolts as the offset places the second base about a inch away from the plate. we use to make spacers on the first ones and then decided they were not needed

jason the cp3 will put out full power with input pressure from 22 psi to a minus 5 psi. this is from Bosch recommended speck. Bosch told Chrysler not to go above 5 microns on the filter because of wear. you have a 10 micron filter. the larger cr engines and the 5. 9 industrial use 2 micron filters we run a fleet of dodges and the first 03 we got had all kinds of problems with the injectors. Bosch worked with us to find the problem. once we started using the new filter setup we have never had another problem. i stock a huge amount of filters for my equipment and to start with i used what i had in stock and modified a cheap steel base to accept the filter i wanted to use. over the last 8 years we have refined our selection to two filters and found bases that cost more but do not require lathe work. we have it down now to a one hour total time to build and install cost even with the expensive bases is about $120. you will never have to replace the stock filter and depending where you get your fuel you can get up to 200,000 miles between filter change. i can send old pix of installs before we settled on the two we now use. i have one pix of the new bases on a 03 and when it becomes time to change i will replace with the two new. email me your email address to -- email address removed -- and i will send pix and instructions

these are old pix some date back to 03. most of mine i use a cheap steel base as shown on a new install on a 06 before cleanup but i have to cut new threads on my lathe to fit the filter. the parts listed are plug and play. the pix using the base listed was installed on the 03. none of the pix show the filters used now. we standardized to the two listed in 06. there are pix of where the two bolts are, both the single seat and double seat are shown. a one plate pix home made plate is shown but took all day with mill and lathe to make. we have it down now to one hour total time to build and install and that includes time rounding up parts. to drill the holes i made a template out of cardboard and keep it for the next one. your first one will take about two hours because you will have to keep holding things in place before mounting to make sure of clearance.
 
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Who is GDP?



I'm guessing something Diesel Performance.



*** edit *** Nevermind, I found another post that said Glacier Diesel Power. If I'm wrong, please correct me.
 
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Who is GDP?



I'm guessing something Diesel Performance.



*** edit *** Nevermind, I found another post that said Glacier Diesel Power. If I'm wrong, please correct me.



Thats them. . Richard is a great guy to deal with and makes some awesome parts and kits.
 
I told you folks had different experiences from mine. Main thing is to have a gauge and realize you may need a better pump with added filtration. My in-tank pump is on the Liberty now working fine. I consider the stock pump adequate for a stock engine with stock filtration only.
 
the two bases are 4770 the water separator pre filter is 3374 the 2 micron filter is 3674.

Thanks for the info CKelley!!!

One question... the 3374 filter doesn't look like a water separator filter on the Napa website. Is this number correct? The water separator filter on your photobucket picture has the drain valve like I'd expect to see.

Thanks again, Eric
 
Installed the MK-2 + big line kit today.



It was relatively simple and straight forward. Installation instructions are perfect and very easy to follow.



All I have is the stock in-tank fuel pump.



My low pressure gauge was normally around 9 psi before install and is still there now, at idle and cruise. It used to drop to the 7 psi area on accelleration w/Smarty on 5 and NO added rail pressure.



It's now around 6psi on accelleration.



I don't think 1 psi is going to make any difference.
 
Others here will disagree, but my stock in-tank pump (long gone) would not satisfactorily push fuel though the stock filter and a 2 micron filter. I could pull the pressure down to 0 fairly easily. I'd recommend a better pump for a dual filter set up.



I'll be the second to disagree. I have a total of 5 filters (20, 15, 5, 2 & 2 microns) and at WOT never saw under 4 PSI with the Smarty @ SW #6.
 
I'll be the second to disagree. I have a total of 5 filters (20, 15, 5, 2 & 2 microns) and at WOT never saw under 4 PSI with the Smarty @ SW #6.



Whenever I think my filtration is crazy I think of you and feel better about being a bit excessive... thou lately this filter has been crossing my mind... .



Parker



Remind me again what filters you are running?
 
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the 3374 is a 6 micron w/s filter with out drain the one in the pix is a 33604 8 micron it has a probe and you can connect it to the stock warning light the 3374 is $9. 42 the 33604 is $26. 07
 
We are not excessive we just don't trust the filling station and too poor (I know I am) to buy 6 new injectors. Man that Racor FWS looks huge. Although I like the idea of clear glass, I don't know where I would mount it as it looks like you have to unscrew the top and mounting it under the cab will not work as you have to unscrew the top to get to the filter.



I'm running FS1218, BF584, PF7977, Cat 1R-0750 & 1R-0749. Adding that Racor 900FH31230 in front of the FS1218 might be a good idea. :-laf



Whenever I think my filtration is crazy I think of you and feel better about being a bit excessive... thou lately this filter has been crossing my mind... .



Parker



Remind me again what filters you are running?
 
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I would mount it on the side of the bed, in that large void. It would have to be taken out to change the filter, but at 30K mile intervals thats 2-3 years for me.
 
I'm trying to figure out where. Inside the bed on that pocket on both sides or under the bed? My FS1218 & BF584 is next to the transfer case and I have no room down there for this type of filter.
 
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