2000 47RE AUTO trans swapout question

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Trans and TC opinions wanted

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Have any do it yourselfers ordered and installed a replacement 47RE on a 2000-2002? I just ordered a replacement 47RE. I have a 2000 with 3. 54's that's slippin in TC Lockup at highway speeds with or without trailer at around 94K due to recent HP upgrades. Looking for a few tips or shortcuts. I've done clutches on larger cars and swapped a few turbo 350- 400's and a C4/C6 or two. Any major problems/hangups?



Thanks
 
Not too hard. If you pull the transfer case and trans together,make sure you have a stout trans jack,they are a heavy awkward combo. Trans crossmember can be stubborn sometimes,either use a porta power to spread the frame,or knock it up then back to get it out.
 
Any trouble seperating the tranfer case? ATF leak out of the case? I'm doing this in a large workshop with everything BUT a vehicle lift. . Do you need line wrenches for the ATF cooling lines and roughly what does a DRY 47RE weigh?
 
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The transfer case has an input seal,so no fluid will come out of it. Line wrenches would help on the cooler lines,but I have done them without. Not exactly sure on the weight,but I would guess 250 lbs ? A good transmission jack,or trans adapter for your floor jack would be required,to do it safely.
 
I just replace mine back in July. I did the trans and transfer case separately. The transfer case is awkward as heck and very heavy for even two people to lift. I took it down on a floor jack by myself, then had it slip off and fall about 6 inches with no damage to it or me.



My crossmember was no problem whatsoever except getting two bolts out on each side as someone attached the running board brackets over the bolt access holes.



The transmission itself was easy and well-balanced. I used a regular floor jack with a 2x6 across it to protect the pan. Had to manually lower it off the jack to get it under the truck frame though.



What transmission are you going with? Hopefully not a stock one as they won't hold up. Get a good aftermarket one made for these trucks. Price is comparable.



Good luck,



Blake



PS- let me know if you have any specific questions on my experience with my installation.
 
Did mine two weeks ago , dropped transfer case and trans seperately,installed Dtt torque converter turned up valve body pressure, reinstalled, took about eight hours. not bad work if you have a trans jack.
 
Does Advance or NAPA have a transmission jack or "converter" for my floor jack? How much$? ATS Stage 4. Bombing getting deeper into the blood. Putting in DDII's RIGHT after the trans upgrade! Soooo easy to slip that stock lockup clutch. Saw it first on the trans temp gauge. Gotta have the gauges to BOMB! Amen. DC did not leave much room to open up the power in the Cummins. .

Thank God for all the companies that build a transmission that can operate @450+ hp and not fall apart.
 
Harbor Freight has a convertor for your floor jack for about fifty bucks. You really need the OTC tool for turning the engine over to get the convertor bolts out. Manual says to remove the starter but its not necessary will save you about 20 minutes.
 
I am sure a 47re weighs just under 100 lbs dry. Fords E4OD, which are a lot heavier weighs just over 100lbs. I use to pick these transmissions up off the floor and set them on a transjack about waist high. I also installed TH-350's by picking them up and putting them on one shoulder and use my free hand to get the bell housing bolts started. Me and a buddy use to race putting in transmissions. I would always win, right at 6 minutes to install, one out in less than 4.
 
I recently changed my trans w/o a lift. I set the truck wheels on four 24" dia. tree trunks that were flat cut. You need to get the truck frame rails at least 28 inches high to be able to slide out the trans on a floor jack with adaptor ( which is what I used). If you have a regular transmission jack, raising the truck rails 25" should be enough.
 
I am going to do this on a large heavy rubber mat. I plan on getting the trans to the ground with a floor jack and then muscling it onto the mat and dragging it out. I was thinking of doing all of the work without the truck lifted. Then jack it up enough to drag the old trans out and slip the new one in. Sound reasonable? The logs are an interesting idea also but I think I would my HD jack stands along with them. Another note, 100lbs! that seems light. I can bench 315lbs so even if it's 200, not worried. Last question, I think! I was going to idle the engine with my drain plug out on my Mag Hytec. I KNOW the trans pump etc won't like it but what other way is there to get MOST if not all of the ATF out?
 
drilling a small hole in the TC will get the fluid out, use a cordless drill or an off set one for safety reasons. loosen the valve body bolts slightly and most if not all the oil will drain out.



Ron
 
Ron, will that clear the cooling lines too? I guess gravity should help it. Sorta wanted to do it without pulling the pan. HATE the taste of ATF!!
 
My new Georend transmission weighed 250 lbs in a cardboard box with a built-in pallet bottom.



As far as turning the engine, you can use a screw driver in a hole in the front of the bell housing - opposite starter side. There's a cover you need to remove to get to the ring gear teeth. You need to go through here to get the converter bolts too.



Blake
 
Originally posted by raf2000

I was thinking of doing all of the work without the truck lifted. Then jack it up enough to drag the old trans out and slip the new one in. Sound reasonable?



Jack the truck up first. You will find that it is much easier to work if you have some room. Make sure it is stable. Frame rails 28" off the ground is pretty high. I had nailed blocks into the logs so no way the tires could roll. It was very stable. I had 3 guys shaking and pushing on the truck to try and get it to move before I went under it.
 
Where are the bolts for the TC? I have most of the trans stuff off today, not bad. Can't seem to see the bolts for the TC after removing the inspection plate. I used a large screwdriver and turned the crank around about half way. I can see the welding lugs up front but I can't see how you are supposed to get the bolts/nuts out. Do you have to wait until you pull the trans?? Also, when dropping the transfer case, do you seperate it at the studs and nuts, leaving the trans extension on the transmission? Thanks again all.
 
raf,the trans bolts are accessable from the pass side of the trans,on the engine adapter plate. Where the trans cooler is mounted on the engine block,right behind the rear line(the one that goes into the front of the trans)there is a small plate with 2 10mm head bolts,remove those bolts and stick one finger in there while you rotate the engine from underneath with a pry bar,there are 6 of them,you need a 5/8 socket,short extension,and they come right out. If you drop one,they should get stuck on the back of the flexplate,so dont worry to much about losing one in the bellhousing when your putting the new one in. One other thing,you should drain your trans overnight if you can,pull the pan,loosen all the vb bolts,put the pan back up with drain off,let it drain the TC overnight,it will be less messy coming out. Good luck,hopefully Mallory will help you,ive done quite few of these trannys too,they arent too bad to do. On the Tcase,remove the 6 bolts with 9/16 heads,dont forget to unhook the vent and 4x4 switch,the just slide it back and down. THe extension housing is the OD unit,leave it on the trans ,take the trans as one unit once the tcase is off.
 
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