2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 2001.5 Brake line from anti lock module to L shaped junction on RF frame rail

[Neal Cassady]

Anybody replace one of these? Blew mine out Sunday braking hard to avoid a deer.

Fitting comes out of the anti lock module easily, looks like a metric bubble flare 10mmx1(12 mm head on tube nut). Have been soaking the other end with Kroil, doesn't want to turn, feels like its going to round off even with a tubing nut wrench. The line leading from the junction off the frame rail to the rear axle looks like it should be replaced as well. Anyone know the specs on the line in and line out of the L shaped junction on the RF frame rail. I had to replace a section from around the fuel tank to the real axle junction a few years ago. IIRC the fitting on the rear axle junction was 3/16" US thread with standard double flair. I cut the line and spliced in a 6' section from the near the fuel tank to the real axle junction using a tube nut, double flare and union. 6' piece was standard auto parts store green brake line, 3/16 US thread, double flare. Brake line from anti lock module to junction block that feeds the RF as well as the line that runs over to RF caliper looks crusty as well. Probably time to replace everything.

Seems like I have run into more than a few cars and trucks lately that use metric bubble flairs on one end and US double flares on the other.

Thanks,
Neal

 

[Neal Cassady]

Update my own thread, after many sprays with Kroil I used some CRC Freeze spray my neighbor had. Not sure if it was the Kroil soaking in or the Freeze Spray or a combination of the two, I was able to remove the tube nut at the junction block. Its a standard double flare, tubing nut much larger than 3/16, off to the auto parts store to see what size the tubing nut is, it is large, 9/16" wrench required.

Going to have to cut the end off a metric brake line with bubble flair and add correct tubing nut and create a double flair. Fortunately line came off in one piece so I have a decent template to bend my new line against.

Thanks,
Neal

 

[mwilson]

Neal,
They make bubble flare to inverted flare adapter fittings. Save you from having to splice the line.

 

[Neal Cassady]

Not available locally, Summit has them. The tube nut on the junction connector is 5/16. I was able to find one at the local Advanced. Could have used the old one but it was rusty and slightly rounded from the removal. New line likely has to be cut to length anyhow, adapter would be helpful but might make replicating the existing line more difficult. Going to use a 36" green brake line, metric with bubble flair, cut off the other end, place new tube nut on line and double flair the end. Hopefully I can shape the new line well enough to fit in the existing retainers. I'm pretty good making double flairs, bubble flairs are not quite so good, the Chinese made tubing doesn't like to be worked too much.

Thanks,
Neal

 

[Neal Cassady]

New line installed, had to cut to approx. 42", metric 10x1 bubble flair on the anti lock module, 5/16 US inverted flair on the L shaped junction on the frame rail. Cut an auto parts store "green brake line to length", installed a new 5/16 inverted flair nut and double flaired the end, no leaks. My bends were close but not perfect, even though I had the old line as a template, 4 90 degree bends in the line. Should work fine, I will probably install a line closer to the factory shape as time permits. Truck is probably ready to have all lines replaced at this point.

Why do manufactures insist on mixing metric bubble flairs and US inverted flairs on the same vehicle?

Thanks,
Neal