2001 track bar

[Mopower71]

Does somebody make a track bar with, the left side of track bar, tapered shaft with ball, a bigger tapered end.
I had to put a washer on the shaft to pull it up tight. As the nut was below where the cotter pin goes through, And it wouldn't tighten up. Ran out of threads..
It came loose again.I just made up 2 thick washers that will fit over the taper so I can get this tight.
Is there a Fix? Do I have the wrong track bar?
The one I replaced was the same way..

 

[petersonj]

During the life of your truck the tapered stud could have been loose at one time causing the tapered hole to become egg shaped. I don't know of an oversized tapered end on a track bar, but if you used standard washers for your repair, the stud won't stay tight because the washers will crush during the torqueing process You could try using washers again, but this time use hardened steel washers - at least Grade 8. You can get them at your local hardware store.

- John

 

[Ozymandias]

There are Kits out there to upgrade from the Gen2 to the better Gen3 Trackbar.
Would be my way to go under that circumstances of a widened tamper.

https://puredieselpower.com/dodge-p...-3500-trackbar-retrofit-kit.html#/product/496 just as an example - there are many solutions out there for this.
Just google track bar upgrade.

 

[petersonj]

@Ozymandias, excellent suggestion.

- John

 

[Joe Mc]

Mopower71 go to the upper right of any page click on your name, find signature and if you create a signature with info on your truck when you post you won't always be asked what year etc. To your question, as others have replied, the tapered hole has most likely become egg shaped. You best bet is to convert to the 3rd gen track bar. it has a bracket that bolts to the frame, I think you need to drill one hole, all hardware is included, the trackbar itself has doughnuts on both ends eliminating the weak joint end on the left side which wears over time. Tip, get the adjustable track bar so you can center the front diff in the chassis.
https://www.genosgarage.com/product/bd-1032011/trackbar-rebuild
$495 sounds like a lot of $$$ but what's the cost of replacing the factory one...multiple times... I'm sure you can locate less expensive conversion kits elsewhere. I included the link from Geno's so you have an idea of what the conversion kit is all about.

 

[Cummins12V98]

There are Kits out there to upgrade from the Gen2 to the better Gen3 Trackbar.
Would be my way to go under that circumstances of a widened tamper.

https://puredieselpower.com/dodge-p...-3500-trackbar-retrofit-kit.html#/product/496 just as an example - there are many solutions out there for this.
Just google track bar upgrade.

On my 98 I did the adjustable 3rd gen DDS.

 

[Mopower71]

Thanks everyone.
I guess its time to upgrade.
Probably a good time to get a red head steering box also?

 

[Mopower71]

During the life of your truck the tapered stud could have been loose at one time causing the tapered hole to become egg shaped. I don't know of an oversized tapered end on a track bar, but if you used standard washers for your repair, the stud won't stay tight because the washers will crush during the torqueing process You could try using washers again, but this time use hardened steel washers - at least Grade 8. You can get them at your local hardware store.

- John

Track bar was loose when I got the truck in October. Put a new track bar on and yes used standard washers and they did crush.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Thanks everyone.
I guess its time to upgrade.
Probably a good time to get a red head steering box also?

YES they are great. Get the 3 turn if you don't have one.

 

[Joe Mc]

From experience with a 4X4 you might want to consider a "steering box stabilizer".
https://www.genosgarage.com/category/steering-box-stabilizer

It provides stabilization to the bottom (sector shaft) by adding an external bearing and also helps to stiffen the front frame ears.

Shop around for steering boxes, in fact search here for info, some folks have purchased aftermarket boxes with good success and some have gotten ones that leak either right away or shortly after install. Typically manufacturers warranty their products however that doesn't cover labor for the R&R. My self, I went with the PSC box and although it was a royal PIA to install (the box is slightly larger than stock due to the larger bearings "and" I couldn't use the steering stabilizer unless I modified the hell out of it) I'm very pleased with the results.
https://www.genosgarage.com/category/steering-box

These trucks are notorious for front end issues, especially 4X4 and even more so if you run larger than stock tires (265 or 245 are stock depending...)
Also, look at the upper and lower control arm bushings as well as sway bar bushings and end links. If your sway bar bushings are shot it's less expensive (and less labor than trying to remove old and install new bushings) to purchase new ones. I used
https://topguncustomz.com/ag-1782671.1782692.1782693.1782728-2001-dodge-ram-3500-4wd.html

Tip: to save yourself a tone of trouble, should you decide to change control arms, make sure before you even order that the cam bolts on the front/bottom on the diff are free = move around and can slide in/out. If they don't plan on cutting with a sawzall and beat them out, I tried purchasing them on line and at local parts houses and they were all too small in diameter. I ended up getting them from the stealer, this was years ago so they may not be available???

These trucks are great but not cheap when you start replacing factory (inferior MHO) parts with aftermarket quality parts.

Have fun.