2003 Dodge Ram Tuning Question

[Jazel57]

I have a 2003 Ram 3500 dually with a 5.9L HO Cummins Turbo Diesel. I'm in the processing of rebuilding my engine, after drooping the 6th cylinder. I getting a new long block with studs, new injectors 100hp, add a new compound turbo, South Bend dual clutch, new Jacob brake, 5" dual exhaust and a Fass 150 fuel system. My original engine had a TST PowerMax CR on it. Can I still use this and/or should I stack with Smarty. BTW, I'm almost full timing with a 43' foot 5th wheel weighing 15,000 lbs. suggestion/recommendation welcome.

 

[cerberusiam]

You can stack the Smarty with a TST but don't do timing with both.

Full-timing with an RV and 100 HP injectors? That is not a great combo for towing heavy. A good set of 50's would be all you need with a power mod and a lot easier to control EGT's on. IMO the 90's and 100's are for high performance\racing application, not towing and reliability.

Unless you are really looking for performance Smarty or TST alone would work fine.

 

[Jazel57]

Thanks cerberusiam, always looking for recommendations to finish this rebuild. New to Diesel power and want to make sure I put together a good build to control my EGT's and horsepower to give me a solid preforming engine to handle my 15,000 5th wheel. Doing this rebuild since I cooked the 6th cylinder on my last engine which was a stock 5.9 that already has the TST PowerMax CR, FASS filters and 5" exhaust.

With getting a twin compound turbo set up, I thought I would need the 100hp nozzles, but you think 50hp would be better? Do I need think I even need to upgrade the new stock injectors at all? Also, I wasn't sure if my TST PowerMac CR should be reused, since it was already on the truck. Don't know how old it is or how to tell. If I can use it, was thinking about stacking a Smarty to take care of the lower rpm's, since that's what I've been reading from other forums.

Thanks for all you help.

 

[cerberusiam]

I would stay with a 50 HP nozzle towing that heavy. The compounds will really make a difference in keeping enough air in there but 100's you can get too much at times. The 50 HP BMS nozzles are a good buy with new bodies and better QA tips than stock. They are a 7 hole SAC as opposed to the 8 hole VCO but the quality gets you better atomization and spray pattern. The SAC nozzles also have more meat in the tip so they handle heat better.

The TST has several twins programs to boost that lower end HP if you wanted to keep it. It alos does TQ, duration and pressure so it is one of the best systems out there. The Smarty has to be programmed and is not really on the fly adjustable but has a lot more oprtions, plus, with the UDC you can build your own program if so desired. Not trying to discourage the Smarty because I use it and think it is probably the most trouble free system out there and the most bang for the buck. I am also using a TST stacked and playing with it to see what the on-the-fly chnages give me for tuning.

Since you are running it pretty hard with that tow weight I would get the coolant bypass pressure relief on the #6 cylinder while you are in there. Just not a good thing to pop that freeze plug on the back of the head. The bypass will help cooling in the #6 cylinder when needed also.

 

[Jazel57]

Thanks cerberusiam for the information on a coolant bypass. I have been looking into it and saw thread on "Extra Cooling for rear of engine" where you participated. As I did some more research, since Opie doesn't offer it anymore--I think, I saw the thread by ILIANBG, with a reference link to Pure Diesel Power, went there and found the "03-07 Dodge 5.9L Cummins Manual Fleece Performance Coolant Bypass Kit" that uses a thermostat in stead of a pressure relief. Will this do the job? Seems pricey, but far cheaper than what I paying now for cooking that 6th cylinder. Thoughts?

Thanks again,
Jay

 

[cerberusiam]

Either pressure or temp should work, both will be present. Definitely worth the cost if you have already hurt #6.

 

[Jazel57]

Got it, thanks. Now I saw they also have a Diesel Sinister Collant Filter Kit, would that help too or is it over kill?? I don't want to spend money, but hurting #6 sure makes spending easier. I've also getting a 3 piece exhaust manifold which i'm told will also lower the temps in 4/5/6 to almost equal 1/2/3. When I purshased the twin turbos, should be here today, I was informed that they too will lower temps and EGT around 1300 if I set everything up right. I'm getting them from www.dieselpowersource.com. Any recommenation on them?

Thanks for all you advise and help !!
Jay

 

[cerberusiam]

The coolant filter is meant to keep the crud from building up in the coolant. Will it help cool things? Maybe but hard to quantify, personal choice if you want to use it.

The 3 piece manifold should help in exhaust flow with the compounds. You might also consider a better CAC to help drop manifold inlet temps. Manifold blanket, down pipe and any hot pipe wrap, and a 4" downpipe might be worth doing.

If you are running any timing or extra fuel 1300 is on the ragged edge of uh-oh. You can usually safely bounce to that temp for 1-2 minutes out of 5 but it would be much safer to keep it at or under 1200 for any length of time.

It will somewhat depend on where you travel and how hard the pulls are but the additions you are making should make a big difference.

 

[Jazel57]

I was looking a little more for a coolant bypass kit a came across 2, 03-07 Dodge 5.9L Cummins Manual Fleece Performance Coolant Bypass Kit and a Common Rail Coolant Bypass Kit- Reduce Block Pressure At High RPM offer by Pure Motor Diesel. One uses thermostat and the other with a adjustable pressure value. Cost aside, which to you think is a better option to use?