2005 Auto Trans Adujustment Question

[Boaring1961]

I have a 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 4wd with an auto transmission (assuming it's the 48re) and I've heard so many things when it comes to adjustments to the transmission.



So, are there adjustments to my transmission (i. e. bands) that I need to have done when I change the fluid? The dealers tell me no, but others tell me yes.



I need a final verdict from some TDR members.

 

[Bob4x4]

The 48 does have bands but they are not known for needing frequent adjusments

 

[Got HO?]

One of the adjustments is made with the transmission pan removed, the other is on the left side of the case. Be sure to have a torque wrench that measures in inch/pounds.

 

[cerberusiam]

If it has never been adjusted then you should probably verify at least the front band adjustment, thats the critical one. With a stock truck and no shifitng problems its not likely a problem but it is worth knowing it is correct.

If you tow a lot, have power mods, have larger tires, etc, then the front band needs to checked every fluid change. When it no longer meets the minimum depth of threads on the adjuster screw it is time to start thinking about a band change.

 

[DNDracing]

I adjust both my bands every time I change my trans fluid (25K - 30K miles which is probably overkill, I know). In a 150,000+ miles, the depth of either adjustment has moved very little, but I the procedure is pretty simple and easy, so I figure it is an ounce of prevention, so why not.

 

[Freebore]

Just completed replacing the fluid, filter, gov solenoid & sensor on mine (GM upgrade). While doing it I checked then adjusted the bands. After backing off locknuts, my front band adjuster was 2 turns to reach 72 in lbs torque and back band (inside pan) was 3. 5 turns. Reset front to 1-3/4 turns and rear to 3 turns. Pumped something like 4. 5-5 gals of ATF+4 out of the return line while filling with fresh fluid. Added a Goerend pan which adds about 2. 5 quarts capacity. Truck is new to me so did it just to make sure there were no surprises and it is pretty simple to do.

 

[Boaring1961]

My Dodge dealership transmission tech told me that if the 48re needs adjusting there's other issues in the transmission. He recommended not doing them.

Today I had him install a new Borg Warner gov solenoid and transducer, which I hoped would stop the 1-2 shuffle and fortunately it did, so far. He also said the front band was burnt and there was no telling how long it'd last and to prevent it from burning even more he adjusted it.

I'm no expert, but his comments seem counter to what so many on here say about adjusting your bands when you service the transmission.

 

[cerberusiam]

Considering he could not see the band to tell if it was burnt without removing and dis-assembling the transmission, the rest of his statements are suspect.

The front band will wear and "burn" if if is too looose, the shuttle shift going on too long without attention will also wear it faster than normal. There doesn't NEED to be something wrong to wear that band or even break it. Sometimes just hard use is all it takes.

 

[Boaring1961]

Thanks Cerberusiam.

His comments on the front band being burnt sound like he actually saw it, but maybe he's basing his comment on the fact the transmission fluid was burnt a little and how loose the front band was. Nevertheless, it's something I may have to deal with someday. Not sure if it's something I should do now or wait until I have a failure.

 

[Steakman1003]

Hi Fellow Cummins owners. I am new to site. I have 2007 early 5. 9 SLT. It has only 60K on it. I bought it, brought it too Ammco guys for fluid change. They told me bands needing adjustment and did it. It seems that after couple thousand miles, I developed a shifting issue. If I give it very little pedal, it shifts ok most of the time, especially when cold. If I give it any decent pedal, it seems to stick in gear between 2 and 3rd and won't shift till I let off pedal. if I give it pedal to downshift from 4th, it hangs in throttle also. I read some posts and heard about govenor solenoid and transducer. BUT, seems like everyone says a Code popped on computer 1st. I have no codes popping up. Is it still possible it's solenoid and transducer without a code? I also notcied, simce I have a bullydog tuner also, trans temperature guage built in. It says it's runnig at 175 to 180 degrees even in the cold New England weather, with no towing. I pull out dipstick and it it barely "Warm" at best? Could I have a plug in fluid system maybe? Could it be the electronic throttle/pedal on the floor with bad spots in it? Again, only 60K on truck. I was going to take a chance and spend 275. 00 to replace solenoid and transducer but trans guy says he does not thing it's those as no code coming up? Please help me make sure I am spending my $ wisely!

Thanks Mike in New England

 

[cerberusiam]

I was going to take a chance and spend 275. 00 to replace solenoid and transducer but trans guy says he does not thing it's those as no code coming up?

You will never se a code unless something burns toitally open in th esolenoid or transducer. They will fail and hang in gear, shuttle hsift, etc, and never have a code.

If you have never replaced them in 60k they are due for replacement for optimal operation. That hanging 2-3 shift could be the slemoid and transducer or even the band out of adjustment or worn. However, if you are trying to get it to downshift out of OD at less than 70 mph and it won't that could also be a sticky solenoid.

I would replace the output shaft speed sensor, gov solenoid, and transducer, and chekc the band adjustment again for good measure. Sometimes all you can do is replace the known trouble items and go from there.

 

[Boaring1961]

So, today I'm driving my truck and I come to a stop and when I take off I'm in second gear. From then on it doesn't shift back to 1st and always takes off from 2nd gear from a stop. It seems to shift fine from 2nd to OD though. When I come to a stop it'll down shift pretty hard just about when I come to a stop. What the heck is wrong now?

I just replaced the trans gov solenoid and the pressure sensor about a month ago to deal with the 1-2-1-2 hunt issue?

I have about 2 weeks of warranty left on the trans and engine and want the dealer to rebuild it.

Any ideas on what could be causing this issue?

Thanks

 

[cerberusiam]

Possibly Solenoid and transducer again. Possibly a VB problem. Do you have manual 1st gear?

 

[Boaring1961]

Cerberusiam,

No, I cannot manually downshift to first gear.

Sure hope it's something that will force them to rebuild it.

 

[cerberusiam]

No, I cannot manually downshift to first gear.

You may a the best case for a rebuild if they can't find the problem. I suspect it may be a combination fo the pieces that were replaced, output shaft speed sensor, and a sticky VB, but, don't tell them until you get a rebuild or they find a way to deny coverage.

I assume you have reverse?

 

[Boaring1961]

Just drove it and it does have reverse. Also now noticed the CEL is on and is throwing the following codes: P1756 and P0869. Looks like they're both gov solenoid codes. Damn unit is brand new too!!!!! I'm thinking I better off to just have the dealer do everything and use their parts so I have some sort of warranty.

 

[cerberusiam]

Well, at least you can get warranty on that part. The delaer parts are not any better than what you buy anywhere else though. If you want to solve the problem for good you get the GM style solenoid and new gov manifold.

From the codes it is likely the transducer, but, it could be both.

 

[Boaring1961]

Yes, but I bought them from Cascade Transmission Parts in OR and then had the dealer install them because I was too busy to do so at the time. The new gov pressure solenoid is the larger Borg-Warner model too. Now I have to deal with contacting Cascade to see if I can get a new part and then have to have it installed or I'll do it.

Thanks for all the help cerberusiam also. I really appreciate it.

 

[cerberusiam]

The new gov pressure solenoid is the larger Borg-Warner model too.

Unfortunately, it ended up being as big or bigger POS than the OE piece. A lot of shops have quit using it because it is so bad. Better off getting dealer parts that that one.

 

[Boaring1961]

Very good to know. I would have never known that. Thanks