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2005 feul filter after 13k miles

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Fuel pressure or trans temp?

Batteries-OK, so I screwed up!

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i'm sorry i dont have a pic which makes this post a little pointless but, i just did my first feul filter change on my truck at about 12,300 miles and it was a breeze..... took about 3 minutes start to finish:) Anyway i was surprised that the filter was completely black:eek: . Is this normal? also how often are you guys changing your filter miles vs. time. I've had my truck for a year and a half and have ony put 12k on it so i decided i should change it (so few miles because i was shuffling thru 2 other 12 valves). But how often? and how dirt? are your filters? thanks
 
I delayed my F/F change due to a shipping issue. #@$%! At 13K my truck started to have a long crank condition. I got it changed and after 2 days of shorter and shorter start times, it came back to normal. :)

Never run it more than 10K or you could cause damage to the pump from starvation... :{ $10. 00 dollars every 10,000 miles is cheap insurance. :cool:
 
im using the ones in the genos kit which i believe are fleetguard stratopores. Is that the consensus to change the fuel filter every 10k miles??? what about time? every year if not 10k miles or twice a year? i dont put that many miles on mine (at least not right now) probably less than 10k a year... .....
 
I'll echo same thing. I did first filter change at about 12,500 after talking to someone at Geno's, and they recommended it. The original filter I removed at 12,500 was really dark (black), and got my attention. Coincidentally to this post, I just replaced the fuel filter for 2nd time, at 25K. It was darkened (which is indeed normal), but didn't look nearly as bad as the first one I replaced. I use the 7 micron filters from Genos, mentioned above.



Seperate subject- The hex area on original plastic screw on cap on my truck

is already getting deformed and the wrench wants to slip (knuckle buster).

I'll be ordering one of those metal replacement caps sold by Genos.
 
Seperate subject- The hex area on original plastic screw on cap on my truck

is already getting deformed and the wrench wants to slip (knuckle buster).

I'll be ordering one of those metal replacement caps sold by Genos.



Hmmmm. Have you, by any chance, been using a 12-point socket on it? ;) 6-point is the only way to go on that cheap plastic cap.



Bob
 
I change mine every 10K and I get my 7 micron fleetgaurds from a cummins dealer in Boise. Mine always looks black when I change it.

Also to add to this, I owned a 2nd gen before this one. I was pretty new to diesels and let the fuel filter go way too long before changing it. Truck started to buck one day then it wouldn't start at all. I starved the injection pump and it had to be replaced. Costly mistake.
 
If I may ask, a stupid questionby the way, but is there anything special to changing the filter? Is it as simple as unscrewing the cap, remove old filter, replace new filter, screw back cap and restart truck?



Does the fuel line have to prime again? If so, is there anything special to do that? I know thats pretty silly sounding, but I don't want to do anything wrong when I do mine.
 
First drain the canister by sliding the yellow lever, then unscrew the top of the filter. Make sure you use the new o-ring with the new filter and try not to get any dirt or debris anywhere near the filter or canister.
 
I spilled a little clean diesel fuel on a new filter by accident and it turned black right away. Yes I would say turning black is normal.
 
Once you get the filter back in and the cap tight, make sure you close the yellow handled drain valve. Then bump the starter, without starting the engine. This will cycle the lift pump to run for about 20 seconds. Do this twice as it will purge any air back to the tank through the recirc line. Then it should fire up and run just fine.



I have been changing my fuel filter at every oil change~5k. The new USLD is cleaning the crud out of the storage tanks and your own fuel tank. It's good insurance against getting stuck on the side of the road with a plugged filter. After a year or so I'll probably go back to every other oil change~10k.



Randy
 
when i changed mine i simply used the socket 27mm? (dont remember). loosened the cap, took the old one out changed the o-ring,put a little oul on it to lubricate it and put the new filter in and tightned it back up. then cycled the key a few times and thats it. i didnt drain anything and really didnt spill much at all... ... . is there any other reason you guys are draining the filter out then just to keep it from spilling?
 
when i changed mine i simply used the socket 27mm? (dont remember). loosened the cap, took the old one out changed the o-ring,put a little oul on it to lubricate it and put the new filter in and tightned it back up. then cycled the key a few times and thats it. i didnt drain anything and really didnt spill much at all... ... . is there any other reason you guys are draining the filter out then just to keep it from spilling?





One big dangerous word... ... ... ..... Water!



Bob
 
So I went to change the filter this weekend. Got it out no problem but I'm curious to how you clean the canister out? I couldn't hardly see in the thing. Are you just using shop rags down in there and forcing it around? I couldn't really see anything down there, so I just installed the new filter and bump started a few times. My powerjoke driving neighbor came over and asked if a needed a jump :rolleyes:



The biggest bummer of the job was when I was draining the cannister and got hit in the forehead with a drop of fluid from the steering pump. :{ Glad I noticed that before the trip to Cali...
 
I'm sorta surprised at the black FF - I was sorta thinking the new ULSD would be refined better enough than the LSD to not contain as many asphaltines (sp?) and cause the darkening as the LSD had - guess I was wrong...
 
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