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2006 six speed transmission bearing failing

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FASS install hiccup on a 2006 3500 5.9/auto

Clutch and flywheel question

I have looked into putting a pump circulating cooler on mine. Coming out of Utah and into Nevada, towing at 110* outside temp, I can just imagine what temp my trans is seeing.
 
I'd like to be able to pull from the sump and return it mostly on 6th gear. I have seen differential oil pumps that you can also hook a thermostat to and I would want a manual override switch. Tilton makes a nice oil pump. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tilton-Engineering-Oil-Cooler-Pump-Transmission-Differential-Each/202810519911?_trkparms=aid=1110001&algo=SPLICE.SIM&ao=1&asc=40718&meid=00a7ab810c074c2a8b825ca54cda0abe&pid=100005&rk=3&rkt=5&mehot=co&sd=202810500846&itm=202810519911&pmt=0&noa=1&pg=2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Another setup with a cooler and a fan on the radiator: https://www.driftmotion.com/Driftmotion-Manual-Transmission-Oil-Cooler-Kit-p/dm3561.htm
 
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I'd like to be able to pull from the sump and return it mostly on 6th gear. I have seen differential oil pumps that you can also hook a thermostat to and I would want a manual override switch. Tilton makes a nice oil pump. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tilton-Engineering-Oil-Cooler-Pump-Transmission-Differential-Each/202810519911?_trkparms=aid=1110001&algo=SPLICE.SIM&ao=1&asc=40718&meid=00a7ab810c074c2a8b825ca54cda0abe&pid=100005&rk=3&rkt=5&mehot=co&sd=202810500846&itm=202810519911&pmt=0&noa=1&pg=2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Another setup with a cooler and a fan on the radiator: https://www.driftmotion.com/Driftmotion-Manual-Transmission-Oil-Cooler-Kit-p/dm3561.htm
Don’t locate the heat exchanger behind the intercooler, before the radiator. Boost temps will effect your cooler temps.
 
Is it necessary to rig up a pump setup? I have never head of any issues of overheating, maybe simply because I live in a cold area.
 
Is it necessary to rig up a pump setup? I have never head of any issues of overheating, maybe simply because I live in a cold area.
Yes, the G56 runs hot. Had my G56 inspected at 35K miles, before the SMF and SB DD3250 was installed. Richard Poels of Standard Transmission, which is the company Joesph Donnelly interviewed for a TDR article back in 08, rebuilt it and sent me pictures of browned bearings. I had them replaced and started monitoring the temperature. I saw at 15K GCW in 85* ambient, 250* level ground towing boat. You bet the G56 can run hot.
 
New to the G-56 . Purchased 06 4 months ago with 145 k . First thing I did was drain and fill with Royal purple synchro. Parked the truck side ways on hill and put extra quart in . Only issue I have with the transmission is a noise in neutral clutch out. Not loud but annoying. Quiets down after it warms up. Shifting is normal. Just can't gear jam it at fast acceleration. Is there a simple to install heat dissipation device for the G-56?
 
Uwharrier, welcome to TDR. Do you know if your G56 has the DMF (Dual Mass Flywheel) or if it's been converted to a SMF (Single Mass Flywheel)? Noise is the negative attribute with the SMF, and after a conversion to the SMF, it will be noticeably noisier. Thats why I went to a 50 wt oil.

The simple and easiest way to keep it cool, is to install a pump and heat exchanger. Mine was a little more complicated, however when I saw my temps near 180*, I'd flip a switch and cool it down to 160*. Regardless of towing or not it would easily get to 200*+. I recommend Mobil Delvac 50wt transmission fluid, it's the only oil I had all around success with. If you want to add a heat exchanger, weld 3/8" FPT bungs to your PTO covers on both sides. Set them as low as possible below the oil level. Set it up with the leaving oil direction on the drivers side and the return oil on the passenger side. The driver side would allways get 5* warmer than the passenger side before I'd turn the pump on. The picture shows the fast coolers I installed, that added oil capacity only. I didn't notice any cooling benifit installing them. But they did help in installing temperature sensors, so I removed them and tapped 3/8" FPT at the bottom and reinstalled them. So if your going to add an external heat exchanger just weld the 3/8" bungs to the PTO covers and save some money on oil and the fastcoolers. Also weld a bung to support your temperature sensor, but install it on the drivers side.


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I have to assume that original owner of the truck converted the flywheel to a single mass. At 145 k the cluch works perfect. Low engagement near the floor mats but perfect. I'm a old school off-road driver and that's the perfect position . Thanks so much for the transmission cooler info. This thing is new to me and requires a lot more learning. Plan on implementing. Delvac fluid I think is recommended by Mercedes in synthetic. Would convert now but too much investment already. And its working. Last note, I'm happy with this machine. Went to buy a 3500 and $ 4000 less ended up with this. Appreciate your input.

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I have looked into putting a pump circulating cooler on mine. Coming out of Utah and into Nevada, towing at 110* outside temp, I can just imagine what temp my trans is seeing.
a cooler can't hurt. many a year of industrial maintenance on gearboxes proved to me that it depends on the kind of gears in the box. straight cut gears are the strongest, noisiest, vibrate like hell, and seemed to last longest. Hypoid gears are the smothest, quietest but weakest and shear the oil from 220wt down to piss water wt in only six months. OTGH, industrial equipment is usually the least expensive stuff that can be found because in industrial settings, initial cost is everything. equipment failures happen on someone else's watch.
in racing circles, the differential and trans both are plumbed for cooling because cool metal is stronger than hot metal and lube oil last longer when not burning hot . something to consider if your doing a cooler on the trans. Furthermore, too many people think synthetic gear oil is good forever. I wish. It is a bunch better in many ways than mineral oils, but no, Virginia, it is not a forever oil.
Last time, 15,000 mile ago, I service the '03 2500 with amsoil products. I pull 11K lbs up the Rockies thru some very tall passes that sometimes call for third gear. in sixteen years I have not had a driveline failure excluding the front axle u-joints. I use the OEM spec'd type fluids. Looking at a hub disconnect kit for the front end and truetrac differential for the rear end this year. the 4x4 system doesn't get used as much day in day out so I don't mind getting out to switch in the hubs if it reduces the rolling friction of the front drivetrain when rolling down the highway and about due for front wheel bearings any way.
 
I set it up as manual control, with a switch on the dash, that would light up when it was on. Here are some pictures.
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Nice set up! Do you run the heat exchanger up front with the radiator, inner-cooler?
I have studied about the Tilton pumps and they rate well. I would like to do something similar that you have. I have thought about putting the "Cooled" oil return, inline with the 6th gear set. That would keep 6th cooled and well lubricated while towing in 6th.
 
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Yes, in fact the 03 thru 09 Radiator is the same for both manual and auto trucks. In one of the pictures is a knock off of an OEM auto heat exchanger. I converted the attaching lines to work as an OEM heat exchanger and used that. But there is one flaw, it sits between the intercooler and radiator, so when running high boost, it will actually increase the oil temperature. If I were to do it again this is what I'd buy, and install it under the bed.

https://www.xtremediesel.com/bd-pow...MIqIbKqdjo5gIVgfhkCh2c4QksEAQYAiABEgJv5_D_BwE
 
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