2008 Jeep Patriot

[Wayne M.]

Russell, I'll try and make you feel better about your Jeep's condition. Here's an aluminum air valve that was removed from a 7 year old Salt truck. Also note the green on the stop light switch wires! Yes it was porus and leaking.

 

[RUSSELL5000]

Well, it is not that bad!!

 

[mwilson]

Wayne, post a picture of the new one....it will be a lot bigger......

 

[Wayne M.]

Wayne, post a picture of the new one....it will be a lot bigger......

Okaaaay. And here are some double check valves.

 

[RUSSELL5000]

Thought I would post an update of my (minimal) progress.

 

[RUSSELL5000]

(1) I think the pneumatic torque wrench is defective. The air compressor says 90 psi, but I put the wrench on the exterior toe-link bolt which attaches to the trailing arm and it just sits there and clicks. To be fair, I cannot move that bolt either – it is not easy to get at and I have not broken it loose yet, either. Still, wrench is not what I expected.

(2) I spent hours trying to get parts apart with no success. I went and got a 4 and one-half inch diameter right-angle grinder and cut off wheels.

(3) The sway-bar links have a bolt with the star socket in the bolt end. The idea is you hold the bolt still with a star bit and turn the nut with a wrench. The star points inside my bolt quickly turned to powder and the nut spun on the bolt. I carefully used the grinder and cut-off wheel on these; I got them off with no damage to the sway bar ends.

(4) I cut the bolt on each side on the lower lateral control arm with the grinder and cut-off wheel. I did put a cut in the trailing arm – I’ll post a picture to see whether we think the trailing arm is salvageable.

(5) I can’t get at the bolt for the end of the upper control arm that attaches to the rear cross-member. My plan is to remove the trailing arm and then I can get enough movement on a bar to turn it.

(6) I found that the one toe-link bolt which attaches to the rear cross-member would not turn because it was up against stops on an adjustable cam washer. I attacked it with the needle scaler which revealed the cam washer as well as knocking it loose. I did not see the cam washer before because it was a blob of rust. Once I got the cam washer off, the bolt still will not turn or come out. I hit the end of the bolt with a hammer and it does not move. It will not turn because it is seized to the metal part of the bushing, and just flexes back and forth with a wrench on it but will not turn. I plan to cut the bolt off with the grinder and cut-off wheel after I have made room to get to it.

(7) My plan is to take the hub off and then take the trailing arm off so that I have room to get at these other items. To get the hub off I needed to take the parking brake shoes and hardware off. The parking brake backing plate disintegrated as I hit it with the needle scaler. So, a little more to replace!

(8) To get the trailing arm off you must remove the strut assembly, the lower lateral control arm, the upper control arm, the toe link, and two bolts which mount the front of the trailing arm to the frame. I cut the toe link in half with the grinder and the cut-off wheel, and I had gotten the strut, lower lateral control arm, and the end of the upper control arm which attaches to the trailing arm off. I have the four bolts attaching the hub to the trailing arm soaking in PB Blaster as well as the two bolts to the frame. I don’t think I will have any problems with the hub but I am really worried about the two bolts going into the frame. If those don’t turn, strip, break off, etc., then I don’t know what I will do.

So all in all, good times and lots of fun. I have to admit that I am rather amazed at how stuff just seizes together.

 

[Wayne M.]

Welcome to my world!!
Honestly I wasn't sure how the Harbor impact gun was going to work, I was curious as to how it was for you. Hope fully you can get a refund. Go and search up Ingersoll-Rand IR231. It shouldn't be more than $125. That's the small block Chevy of 1/2 guns. See about cranking up your air to 110~ or more.
Also, as you're putting pipes on breaker bars to get leverage, please be extremely careful about countering your force as not to pull the car off the jacks!
If you're sitting and pulling toward you, put a foot against the subframe or similar for counter force.
If you feel safe enough about it, get a torch head and MAPP gas. Heat does wonders. I have that plus a small oxy/acetylene kit for extreme situations.

 

[Wayne M.]

Afterthought-
If you're running a regulator and such to the gun, ensure it flows enough air to run the tool. If in doubt, bypass.

 

[MichaelOverfield]

Wayne makes a good point on the impact wrench, also, I've had bolts I had to just hit and run it for a seemingly ridiculously long time, but they eventually moved (I have 2 cheapo tools, one a Kobalt (Lowes) the other a Campbell Hausfield (Walmart)), they are not the most powerful but they do work. Heat is your friend, MAPP gas, even a propane torch can do wonders.. sometimes a couple of heat cycles. A cut off wheel is not a bad way to go, even if you only partially cut, that also adds massive heat, and you can then again try to remove with tools. In a tight spot, a Dremmel tool with the proper cut off wheels can help as well, it will chew up wheels fast, but they are pretty cheap, and if it saves otherwise insane time, it's worth it. Now back to that welder.. if you had it, that damaged part... no problem, just weld fill the damaged area, grind and file to original shape... and done. Once you have a welder, you'll find so many places to use it, and some repairs will save you more than the cost of the unit, at least that has been my experience.

 

[RUSSELL5000]

On the torque wrench, I do have a regulator as well as air filter and oiler. However, when it did not work, I ran house straight to wrench. Not good. Believe can return within 30 days with receipt.

So far I have really not had my body under vehicle when pulling on. But, will pay greater attention and check stands again.

I have a propane torch. I'll try that out.

The parking brake cable passes through the trailing arm. There is a pin that holds it on - I should say there was a pin, now there is a block of rust solid to the trailing arm. Endless.

As far as welding goes, is that not quite skilled? I.e., even if I got tomorrow then I would be afraid of screwing it up.

Thanks much.

 

[Wayne M.]

The next time you need a torch bottle, get MAPP, you can use it with the propane head. Different mix of gas and is a bit hotter.
Welding (MIG) is not hard, a few basics, decent machine, and practice. I worry about fire when welding or making any sparks for that matter.
Most metalworking/ welding operations have a person qualified as firewatch. Yes that's a ligit title, and rule one is not to close up shop for one hour after metalworking/ welding is done. This allows everything to cool down, lower any chance of any hot spots to ignite.

 

[MichaelOverfield]

On the torque wrench, I do have a regulator as well as air filter and oiler. However, when it did not work, I ran house straight to wrench. Not good. Believe can return within 30 days with receipt.

So far I have really not had my body under vehicle when pulling on. But, will pay greater attention and check stands again.

I have a propane torch. I'll try that out.

The parking brake cable passes through the trailing arm. There is a pin that holds it on - I should say there was a pin, now there is a block of rust solid to the trailing arm. Endless.

As far as welding goes, is that not quite skilled? I.e., even if I got tomorrow then I would be afraid of screwing it up.

Thanks much.

I'm pretty sure you could figure out a MIG pretty quick. It's not too difficult, and to fix ugly welds.. and angle grinder is your friend! I've never had and formal welding instruction, and with practice and some reading and now I've done even some complex stainless welds. That takes a special tri-mix shield gas. To start out I used just normal steel wire with 100% CO2, that is what I use most of the time. On some really heavy hitch welds I use Flux cored heavy wire, it's messy, but that is stuff about 1/4" or thicker, something I rarely do. I've done significant welding on my trailer frame and suspension. It has become one of my most valuable tools.

 

[RUSSELL5000]

This evening after work I almost got one of the trailing arms off. The four bolts holding the hub to the trailing arm came out. The two bolts through the forward bushing and into the frame came out without any particular difficulty. I slid the whole trailing arm and hub off the axle, setting the axle on a Jack stand.

I could not immediately separate the trailing arm and hub. But, the parking brake cable is still attached to the trailing arm. I am going to very carefully try to cut the attachment point tomorrow evening. I don't want to replace the parking brake cables, but may end up having to do so.

I think I can get the remaining parts off with the trailing arm out of the way.

Some progress, anyhow.

 

[jgillott]

Glad to hear things are moving along.

 

[RUSSELL5000]

Update: I did some Googling, and it seems there is a pervasive rust problem on the crossmembers (subframe) on Patriot, Compass, and Caliber. So, I cut stuff off until I have everything removed on the rear. My plan is simply to replace everything.

Here is the subframe:

Here is one of the bolts attaching the rear crossmember to the frame:

So, on to the front end.

 

[MichaelOverfield]

Update: I did some Googling, and it seems there is a pervasive rust problem on the crossmembers (subframe) on Patriot, Compass, and Caliber. So, I cut stuff off until I have everything removed on the rear. My plan is simply to replace everything.

Here is the subframe:

View attachment 100262View attachment 100258View attachment 100259View attachment 100260

Here is one of the bolts attaching the rear crossmember to the frame:

View attachment 100261

So, on to the front end.

A big job gets bigger! Sounds familiar! It's horrible what all that road salt will do to a car. Where they don't use salt cars do not rust like that.

 

[Wayne M.]

Major component failure is pretty common, but haven't heard anything on jeeps.
Various model Hyundai frame and subframe issues, Toyota Tacoma chassis failure to name a few.

 

[jgillott]

Did you ever ask yourself why people buy a new vehicle every 2-3 years. It's sights like are posted above that drive that. Keep up the good work Russell. I know how much work it is.

 

[RUSSELL5000]

Following that post I removed the rear wheel well liners. Rust on the two tubes going to the gas tank, as well as the straps holding the tanks on. I'll get some pictures posted.

Yes, job is getting bigger! I think I am getting into a kind of a grudge match thing. Tomorrow after work the needle scaler and wire wheel are going to get a workout.

 

[RUSSELL5000]

Spent some time with my friends Needle Scaler and Wire Wheel this evening. A dust mask and plastic goggles are help up when all that junk is falling in your face!

Here are the fuel tank tubes before and after some cleaning. The first picture is after some cleaning; the second picture is before. Lots of red/brown stuff, but I think they are solid enough. Hopefully the POR15 will extend their life enough. The third picture is the strapping under the polyethylene gas tank. Attacking that tomorrow night.