2013 DRW Manual, a couple issues.

[Cummins12V98]

A friends truck has been very good to him now at 225k. It’s stock with 3.42’s. First issue he just picked up a new 43’ Forest River 5er dry weight 16,400#. He left Banning, CA to Barstow and to Bakersfield over Tehapi Pass. Several 6% long grades had him down to 15 mph in 2nd. This seems extremely slow. All temps stayed in check. My first thought is fuel filter restriction. The filters are genuine MOPAR with 25k. Thoughts? Yes I know they should have been replaced earlier but he always gets his fuel at Costco.

Second issue is his stock clutch seems to be smoked. Doing a lot of maneuvering to get parked at my place. All said and done it would not go in or out of gear without a battle. I am sure South Bend is the way to go but guessing the G56-OK-HD with new hydraulics. Thoughts?

 

[petersonj]

It’s stock with 3.42’s.

Worst gear ratio ever to have with a 6 speed manual transmission. With a 16,000 lb dry weight trailer, the axle ratio should be at least 3.73, or 4.10.

I am sure South Bend is the way to go but guessing the G56-OK-HD with new hydraulics.

That would be a good clutch to go with, but that clutch is going to be overheating as well during difficult back up maneuvers (just like the OEM one), if the driver doesn't change his tactics.

Using 4 LOW range while backing will go a long way to keeping the clutch cool and will make the backing experience much, much easier as the rig will just creep at idle which makes for less steering corrections. That truck is a candidate for a 2WD LOW range aftermarket kit and a change of axle ratios.

- John

 

[Cummins12V98]

Honestly he probably will eventually buy a DRW with AISIN and 4:10’s.
He said it towed great on flat to hilly terrain.

 

[Ozymandias]

What @petersonj said.
If he smoks a clutch maneuvering he can't drive stick, sorry.

And I wonder what rpms he was running up the hill.. if he's still in second at 15mph he was lugging it badly.

 

[NIsaacs]

Honestly he probably will eventually buy a DRW with AISIN and 4:10’s.
He said it towed great on flat to hilly terrain.

This, just do it now before he spends money on his current truck. In '13, manual trucks were detuned big time. 350/660

225k miles on his stock clutch? If so, I wouldn't consider him a slacker with a stick shift truck.

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

I have a ‘14 SRW G56 that came with 3.42’s and as mentioned above, completely awful for anything other than flat highway cruising. If he plans on keeping it, I’d recommend swapping to 4,10’s. For a couple thousand dollars it’s a huge improvement.

I’d say the fuel filters are overdue. I’d also check the air filter.

225K out of a stock clutch with that gear ratio towing is pretty good. I changed my clutch a couple years ago to the SB semi organic and haven’t been real happy with it. It’s an engagement issue for me, it’s never felt like it grabs. We installed a Valair in my sons a couple weeks ago and after driving his compared to mine, that will be going into mine soon.
I’m not bashing SB either, I have one in my Jetta and love it. Just not happy with it in my truck when it had 3.42’s and now with 4.10’s.

 

[Grumpy8811]

sounds like an engine performance problem more than a lack of power caused by gearing.
342 compared to 410's is amounts to 20% difference in engine speed and tractive power at comparable speeds and comparable gears ..

final drive ratio in 2nd w 342 gears is still quite an amount of gear reduction
one can assume in 2nd gear even with 342 gearing truck should be able to pull a 6% hill with a load at more than 15mph.

 

[Grumpy8811]

This, just do it now before he spends money on his current truck. In '13, manual trucks were detuned big time. 350/660

225k miles on his stock clutch? If so, I wouldn't consider him a slacker with a stick shift truck.

its worth pointing out that on those engines with the manual trans , while the on paper power output appears lower, the torque curve on those engines is longer and flatter than on the auto trans models.. realistically there isn't much difference between 350 hp and 370 and if you run that engine up around 2500 rpm to pull a severe grade it should do it well. 6% grade isn't all that steep.

 

[NIsaacs]

its worth pointing out that on those engines with the manual trans , while the on paper power output appears lower, the torque curve on those engines is longer and flatter than on the auto trans models.. realistically there isn't much difference between 350 hp and 370 and if you run that engine up around 2500 rpm to pull a severe grade it should do it well. 6% grade isn't all that steep.

The op mentioned an HO, so, 420/1075 is significant. My '21, SO, 370/850 is anemic for passing with a load. Does pull good when it hits a hill.

2nd gear for the OP's truck is about 1900 @ 15 mph, so not really lugging a 6.7.

If he wants to keep his truck, he might consider swapping out the late model G-56 for an early model. Since it probably needs a clutch, he is right there. If the truck is 4x4, gear ratio change is expensive, unless he can do the work.

 

[Cummins12V98]

This, just do it now before he spends money on his current truck. In '13, manual trucks were detuned big time. 350/660

225k miles on his stock clutch? If so, I wouldn't consider him a slacker with a stick shift truck.

He knows how to drive a clutch. He is a professional landscaper for decades. Clutch was at end of life and I think the hydraulic system was failing.

 

[Cummins12V98]

sounds like an engine performance problem more than a lack of power caused by gearing.
342 compared to 410's is amounts to 20% difference in engine speed and tractive power at comparable speeds and comparable gears ..

final drive ratio in 2nd w 342 gears is still quite an amount of gear reduction
one can assume in 2nd gear even with 342 gearing truck should be able to pull a 6% hill with a load at more than 15mph.

I towed heavier than that with my 11 DRW auto 3.42’s same grades never below 45. He said his rpm’s were up all the time. IMHO his truck should have towed those grades at 45 keeping rpm’s up.

New fuel filters ordered from Geno’s. Air filter is fine with 25k on it. NW WA is easy on air filters.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Back to the clutch. G56-OK-HD is that better than going back to stock?

He runs AMZ/OIL SIG series ATF in trans and has for 150k. Truck never towed HEAVY prior to this RV so is there a better AMZ/OIL lube for this trans if he keeps the truck?

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

The manual synchromesh. That clutch is the full organic, I have no experience with it. Is he going to change the clutch himself?

 

[slowmover]

I towed heavier than that with my 11 DRW auto 3.42’s same grades never below 45. He said his rpm’s were up all the time. IMHO his truck should have towed those grades at 45 keeping rpm’s up.

New fuel filters ordered from Geno’s. Air filter is fine with 25k on it. NW WA is easy on air filters.

Not saying it’s what happened, but 15-MPH is consistent with having missed a downshift. I imagine we’ve all done it (to remove any sting).

Much more fun when it’s an overloaded 18-whlr and one’s a self-conscious new guy. Having to come to a full stop and start over is nerve-wracking. Sure glad it wasn’t a triple-stick.

Was the downgrade past the summit equally sharp (asked rhetorically)? If so, then 35-MPH uphill would have been fine as 30-35 headed down is more than enough.

There’s way too much panty-twisting given to upgrade speed. 80% engine load max on the way up and being aware of almost shock cooling (zero load) going to near closed throttle once over the top are what to remember.

A 30k load is work. Slower means nothing.

If that trailer hitched weight represents a high number of miles on challenging roads, yeah, re-gear. If not, just plan the trip with a lower average speed in mind. That’s what every flatlander truck driver does once in WV or UT. Doesn’t pay to re-gear for a tiny percentage of total miles.

Or get an RV trailer better matched to the truck.

Total time on a grade ascent and descent isn’t long. Just seems that way.

.

 

[Cummins12V98]

The manual synchromesh. That clutch is the full organic, I have no experience with it. Is he going to change the clutch himself?

Having a mechanic friend do the job.

 

[AH64ID]

I towed heavier than that with my 11 DRW auto 3.42’s same grades never below 45. He said his rpm’s were up all the time. IMHO his truck should have towed those grades at 45 keeping rpm’s up.

New fuel filters ordered from Geno’s. Air filter is fine with 25k on it. NW WA is easy on air filters.

It doesn’t matter where he buys fuel, 25K miles is too long for the fuel filters.

Was your ‘11 the 800lb/ft version? They both make the same hp though, so he should have had more power.

Put an air filter in it too, they are 30K mile filters under ideal conditions and since you’re working on it now is the time.

 

[Cummins12V98]

It doesn’t matter where he buys fuel, 25K miles is too long for the fuel filters.

Was your ‘11 the 800lb/ft version? They both make the same hp though, so he should have had more power.

Put an air filter in it too, they are 30K mile filters under ideal conditions and since you’re working on it now is the time.

Yes it was the HO version. I think he should have done at least as good as my 11.

Yes new MOPAR air filter he already has.

I would like your opinion on replacement clutch and AMZ/OIL trans fluid. ATF never seemed correct to me.

His truck gets great mileage, he was 10-11 even with those slow grades. It had to be fuel restriction. He is the guy that went something like 24k on AMZ/OIL 15-40 and filter. Blackstone suggested 2k further next time.

Thanks in advance.

 

[NIsaacs]

Back to the clutch. G56-OK-HD is that better than going back to stock?

Since he had such good luck with oem stock, I would go back with it. He might not like the noise of aftermarket. $581 from Rock Auto, includes flywheel.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinf...GSCiMItkGZMGDSfd3uVUhoewCgUkBlAatAhl2Q3aM8vt9

 

[AH64ID]

Yes it was the HO version. I think he should have done at least as good as my 11.

Yes new MOPAR air filter he already has.

I would like your opinion on replacement clutch and AMZ/OIL trans fluid. ATF never seemed correct to me.

His truck gets great mileage, he was 10-11 even with those slow grades. It had to be fuel restriction. He is the guy that went something like 24k on AMZ/OIL 15-40 and filter. Blackstone suggested 2k further next time.

Thanks in advance.

He seems down on power, but 800lb/ft over 660lb/ft is going to make a noticeable difference. If he was starving for fuel it should throw a low rail pressure code, but he may not be that restricted.

Dad had the OK-HD in his 06 with the G56 and it was a great clutch. Better than the junk OE DMF and it was also very quiet. It’s a G56 so still noisier than a DMF, but nothing like other clutches I’ve driven with a G56.

Amsoil MTG 75w-90 is what I’d run in the G56, as it is a GL-4 spec fluid like Mercedes spec’d.

 

[nukegm]

south bend g56 ok hd is what i put in my 18 2500. had gone through 2 clutches in 50k. stock flywheels came apart, somehow, along with 1 stock hydro unit failed. factory clutch is junk in my o, but it is quiet. south bend has been in there 50k and still perfect. yes its noisy in the winter. it quieted some with fluid change in trans. funny thing, my 02 2500 has 229k on original clutch. stellantis really has dropped the ball on things latley. cheers all!