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2015 3500 wheelbstuds sheared off

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LS Differential in 2011 Ram 2500

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IMO these studs were overtightened from the get go.
On a dually it is very important to retorque 2-3 times especially on rear. 1st when installed. 2nd after 75 miles or so and again after approx same mileage with a good load on.
 
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Here are a couple from the left side that I had break a couple years ago.

I can wire brush them off if you want.

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When trying to do failure analysis, you don't want to mechanically work the fracture surface. At most you would want to chemically clean it (solvent tank and soft bristle brush, brake cleaner, etc...).

About all that can be seen on the first photo is the ratchet marks around the edge, indicative of fatigue.

Not sure what to make of the second photo at this point.
 
Looking at the second photo some more, there might be beach marks there (fatigue)...somewhat obscured by the black material covering it.
 
When i torque my wheels i use the drop of oil between the nut and washer shown in the owners handbook. Are you guys doing this? The center caps came off much easier since the oil point is where the cap clips onto. So i may not lube anymore in the hopes i do not lose my center caps. If oil is not used could this be contributing to the nuts coming loose?
 
When i torque my wheels i use the drop of oil between the nut and washer shown in the owners handbook. Are you guys doing this? The center caps came off much easier since the oil point is where the cap clips onto. So i may not lube anymore in the hopes i do not lose my center caps. If oil is not used could this be contributing to the nuts coming loose?
I would be hesitant to stop doing that, especially if you haul or tow heavy. I could see where you possibly wouldn't get proper torque if the washer is trying to turn with the nut.

 
View attachment 100964 View attachment 100963Here are a couple from the left side that I had break a couple years ago.

I can wire brush them off if you want.



Top photo-
I'm not familiar with that particular wheel nut. I assume the washer is captured/ floating, so how much play does it have? I'm trying to figure out why that stud is not centered as in the bottom photo. If you could screw the stud out, I wonder if it's bent. I bet that was the last stud before the wheel broke loose. That also could explain the clean break, without beach heading like the bottom, and so many other failures show.
The whole reason for tightening to a certain point, is to keep the fastener in a certain amount of tension. If you're wasting torque by fighting the nut/washer friction, then you won't achieve that critical tension. For sure that washer/ nut joint should be at least clean, and if the book says- lubricated.
I'm against the overtightening from the get go theory. Wheel studs are brittle to the point that if overtightened, they'll snap on the spot, and not stretch like, say a common bolt would.
 
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I vote for over-torquing which would stretch the lugs causing them to yield at a lower torque than designed for. I saw a torque wrench put on wheel lugs for the first time in my life at Sam's the other day. They actually use a torque wrench. I've seen nuts run up so tight on a car, they could be removed without splitting and galling the nut off.
 
I watched a tire tech at a major N.W. tire company tighten the lugs on my 14, Ram 3500 and then go around with the torque wrench and click all the lugs without moving the handle. The tech called it good. When I returned home for curiosity sake, I checked the torque and found all the lugnuts were overtorqued by 95 to 110 ft. lbs. Todays modern 1/2 " drive air impact can exceed 1000 ft. lbs. of torque almost instantly. The proper way to torque a lugnut is to snug it up with the impact and complete with the torque wrench to specs. I have heard from several folks who have twisted studs off in removing tires. I don't know if it is a time issue or a lazy issue. Just my thoughts.
 
I watched a tire tech at a major N.W. tire company tighten the lugs on my 14, Ram 3500 and then go around with the torque wrench and click all the lugs without moving the handle.....

If he did that, he is not a tech, but a monkey!

It is both a time and lazy issue. They get paid by the hour or job. Lazy cause they don't do it right, if they even know how.
 
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What's really sad is a little over $100 will buy a set of torque sticks. I use them when I rotate tires. I've never seen my 120ft lb stick off by more than 5ft lbs.
 
It seems like anywhere you go for auto service people are forever trying to screw you by cutting corners on service and overcharging. I guess the "honest" mechanics and techs are a dying breed. People look to the dealerships for professional factory trained techs Geez that's a laugh. My local Chrysler/Ram dealer has the worst reviews for service and sales. I have to venture about 70 miles one way to the next dealer. What do you do?
 
It seems like anywhere you go for auto service people are forever trying to screw you by cutting corners on service and overcharging. I guess the "honest" mechanics and techs are a dying breed. People look to the dealerships for professional factory trained techs Geez that's a laugh. My local Chrysler/Ram dealer has the worst reviews for service and sales. I have to venture about 70 miles one way to the next dealer. What do you do?

At some dealerships, I think it depends on who clocked in that day. I suspect that in October, they double charged. I think they charged me and the warranty for $35+ tax of the same work that they said wasn't covered by warranty, but should have been. I was suspicious just by how they acted like they were doing me a favor by not charging me more. Geez!
 
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