2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 2500 & 3500 Front axle change to ford hubs?

[Fordiesel69]

On my 95', the dana 60 front axle looks like the ford except for the spindles, hubs, and brakes.



Is it possible to swap over the mid 90's ford spindle, half shaft, hubs, and brake system stuff over to the dodge to eliminate the full time 4WD? I can have custome hoses made if need be and can also find blown ford axles.

 

[SFrey]

sorta... check out EMS Offroad



scot

 

[Fordiesel69]

Is this the right kit?



'94-'99 Dodge SRW w/o ABS Extreme Duty [HC-94D-ED] - $1,145. 00 : EMS Offroad, When You're Ready For The Next Step



Has anyone used these kits with ease? Is it a direct swap over?

 

[RHestand]

Is this the right kit?



'94-'99 Dodge SRW w/o ABS Extreme Duty [HC-94D-ED] - $1,145. 00 : EMS Offroad, When You're Ready For The Next Step



Has anyone used these kits with ease? Is it a direct swap over?

Yes, I installed the EMS kit on my 06, and after several thousand miles on it, I'm very happy.

If click on the search forum, then EMS Offroad there is a lot of good info.

 

[SRath]

Correct me if I missed something, but the problem I see with that kit, based on their own photo of what it includes, is there is no 1-piece replacement inner axle shaft for the passenger side CAD. That makes the locking hubs a redundancy and also does not address the weakest link in the Dodge Dana 60: The CAD design (collar & 2-piece shaft).



And, of course, you're also still stuck with those weak, miserable ball joints instead of "real" Dana 60 kingpins. I don't view spending $1400 on my front axle to still be stuck with that junk as money well-spent.

 

[SFrey]

they do offer a 1-pc replacement shaft.



scot

 

[RJWEST]

I think on the 01-02, EMS includes the right side long axle,
and the plate to delete the cad,,,,,
my 02 CAD is removed ( yes it had a CAD ) with my EMS Kit

Call EMSOFFROAD and ask for Eric,,, He The Man...
He will tell you what is being shipped in the latest Kits. .

Before I did mine, I explored the other options, I drive mostly
trips with a TC, I trust the aftermarket Kit more than a homebrew, especially MY homebrew...

 

[Fordiesel69]

Correct me if I missed something, but the problem I see with that kit, based on their own photo of what it includes, is there is no 1-piece replacement inner axle shaft for the passenger side CAD. That makes the locking hubs a redundancy and also does not address the weakest link in the Dodge Dana 60: The CAD design (collar & 2-piece shaft).



And, of course, you're also still stuck with those weak, miserable ball joints instead of "real" Dana 60 kingpins. I don't view spending $1400 on my front axle to still be stuck with that junk as money well-spent.

Ball joints are way better in my opinion as you can do them yourself in your driveway, however those sealed wheel bearing assys are too hard to get off allowing easy ball joint, axle joint replacement. Kingpins are a real PITA to replace. Alot of people get so frustrated they spend BIG $$$$$ to have a shop do it. Kingpins will still fail in subject to abuse, so will ball joint, except you can replace balljoints easy.

 

[JacobsD]

Ball joints are way better in my opinion as you can do them yourself in your driveway, however those sealed wheel bearing assys are too hard to get off allowing easy ball joint, axle joint replacement. Kingpins are a real PITA to replace. Alot of people get so frustrated they spend BIG $$$$$ to have a shop do it. Kingpins will still fail in subject to abuse, so will ball joint, except you can replace balljoints easy.

I've rarely ever seen kingpins fail. I've never done them myself. Ball joints on the other hand.....

 

[SRath]

When I went through the Dana 60 for my Chevy, the kingpin rebuild was a breeze! My gosh! Nothing could be easier. The only thing that might be difficult to R&R would be the actual kingpin which requires some serious torque and a special large hex to remove and reinstall. Not a big deal if you have friends who work on semis all day (and have serious torque wrenches and impacts), which I do since I'm a truck driver. But the steel kingpins on a Dana 60 aren't subject to any significant wear under normal conditions (mine were perfect). The nylon bushing and spring are all you really need to do under most circumstances, if you do anything at all, which is rare on a light-duty truck (pickup). Even the bushings and springs weren't noticably worn, but I had bought the kit and did them anyway.



Balljoints are nowhere near as durable or strong as kingpins. Not even close. Look under any truly heavy-duty truck (semi, dump truck, etc. ). You will find kingpins, not balljoints.



The balljoints that DC spec'd on our Dodge Dana 60's are the cost-saving, cheapass equivilent of the unitized hubs and bearings. They plain suck for everyone but DC penny counters and replacement parts dealers.



I'm ashamed of Dana-Spicer for even agreeing to cheapen and weaken the famous Dana 60 front axle to such a degree. They hurt their own reputation greatly by doing so IMO.

 

[Fordiesel69]

When I went through the Dana 60 for my Chevy, the kingpin rebuild was a breeze! My gosh! Nothing could be easier. The only thing that might be difficult to R&R would be the actual kingpin which requires some serious torque and a special large hex to remove and reinstall. Not a big deal if you have friends who work on semis all day (and have serious torque wrenches and impacts), which I do since I'm a truck driver. But the steel kingpins on a Dana 60 aren't subject to any significant wear under normal conditions (mine were perfect). The nylon bushing and spring are all you really need to do under most circumstances, if you do anything at all, which is rare on a light-duty truck (pickup). Even the bushings and springs weren't noticably worn, but I had bought the kit and did them anyway.



Balljoints are nowhere near as durable or strong as kingpins. Not even close. Look under any truly heavy-duty truck (semi, dump truck, etc. ). You will find kingpins, not balljoints.



The balljoints that DC spec'd on our Dodge Dana 60's are the cost-saving, cheapass equivilent of the unitized hubs and bearings. They plain suck for everyone but DC penny counters and replacement parts dealers.



I'm ashamed of Dana-Spicer for even agreeing to cheapen and weaken the famous Dana 60 front axle to such a degree. They hurt their own reputation greatly by doing so IMO.

In a way you are right. Anymore and in the future, there will be no real trucks left. The new 08' F450 superduty at work has paper thin doors, cheap plastic interior, cheap everything. Even back in 03' they were built much better.

 

[SRath]

You're absolutely right about that, Fordiesel69. That's why I hang onto my "old stuff" so long: '87 K30 [14 years], '69 Camaro [29 years], and I'm trying to get my '72 Blazer [would be 24 years] back from my "friend" who never has finished it or finished paying me for it & I still have the Title. Shoulda never drank those beers and let him talk me into that lame deal... I kinda get attached to my vehicles...



They truly don't build them like they used to and never will again. This '96 diesel dodge is probably the newest vehicle I will ever own. I've owned it for about 9 years and the Cummins should outlive me if I can keep the dodge from falling off it and correct the most serious weaknesses. Nothing built by any manufacturer since has impressed me (less and less each year) and I think I picked a future classic once more.



I'm on the lookout for a driver-side-drop Ford Dana 60. I want to try welding the suspension bracketry from a Dodge Dana 60 onto a Ford kingpin/lockout front axle with normal hubs and bearings. I need to compare the wheel-mounting-surface to wms width on both axles to make sure it would track right, though.



That would be everything that kit offers and then some. I firmly believe it can be done right for a lot less money than $1400 if I can find a good deal on the Ford axle. I have already found the Dodge coilspring/control arm brackets. I have done similar mounting bracket conversions on rear axles and I'm confident I can do it right. A well-made jig is the key to getting everything lined up correctly.