2500 towing question

[Gary - K7GLD]

Hang on a sec, Gary, I'll bet Nick is more right that you think.....



My intended 2 points are that analyzing problems from afar are pretty difficult at best - we see it attempted here nearly every day - usually only about 1 in 10 come close to the real answer...



The other point is, MANY guys towing heavy assume and insist that they are EXCELLENT drivers, and keep their stuff in tip-top condition, and need not worry about mechanical failures ruining their, or someone elses day.



The quoted incident is sort of a wakeup call that unknowns DO occur, might be magnified in extreme conditions, and we ALL need to be seriously aware of various maintenance issues - ESPECIALLY if consistently overloaded!



As a challenge - when was that last time any HERE checked their hitch mounting hardware for proper tightness - retorqued mounting bolts, etc?



I did mine this spring - and yeah, while not loose, I *did* get a little bit of rotation on the 5th wheel base-to-frame bolts...

 

[jkalchik]

<grin> Hokay, Gary, I can see that. </grin>



I'll plead guilty on not checking the hitch frame on mine. But I've also only had it for 2 weeks... .

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

I'll plead guilty on not checking the hitch frame on mine. But I've also only had it for 2 weeks... .



JEEZE, talk about rank NEGLIGENCE!

 

[jkalchik]

Hey, HEY, HEY!



I'll check them on Wednesday, I promise! Yes, I know about the factory TSB on the hitch receiver.



Besides, gotta see what this CTD will do. Hoping to hook up to one of the farm trailers with 8 tons of hay on it at the end of the week. Should make Dad's 1999 3500 gasser look pretty sick.

 

[Wiredawg]

Bolt on Airbag Brackets

All:



Nothing on the truck itself broke, but the air bags quoted as giving 5K lbs extra capacity had the bolts shear on the upper brackets bolted to the frame. Even though I kept the factory aux springs on the truck, my suspicion is, for example, that on a curve going over railroad tracks at speed (60 - 70 mph), I believe that if the lower rear bolts on the upper bracket gave way, that the sudden jar and shift of weight could have affected vehicle control. My current 3500 needs no aftermarket suspension (besides shocks and HD rear anti-sway bar) to keep it safe.



Many of us drive overweight and no matter how careful you are, if you have faulty equipment, especially add-on, you could have a serious problem.



It was actually cheaper for me to strip my 00 2500, trade up to a 3500 and add most of the goodies to it than it was to add 19. 5s to my 3500. My truck payments only increased $19/mo.



Anyway, everyone be careful ou there,



Wiredawg

 

[jkalchik]

Thanks for the clarification on the bolts, Wiredawg.

 

[NIsaacs]

Hi Gary, it's "me", your overweight nemesis . Hey, whats wrong with me being only half right, and long distance too! I see you average about 1,000 posts per year, all long distance . I noticed on a recent post that you were half wrong. I think I did fairly good to determine that the truck didn't fail, just the little 3/8ths, grade nothin bolts that hold the air bag brackets. I have installed a bunch of the Firestone air bags on different vehicles and think they are a very good product. However I have learned to put my faith in grade 8 bolts. I want to thank you for your replies to any of my posts that concern over weight issues. You always reply with a well written and inteligent message, long distant too no less . That is how I learn new things even if I don't reply to most of them. THANKS!!





"IF IT AIN'T CUMMINS POWERED, IT AIN'T A TRUCK"





"NICK"

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

HEY Nick - no doubt about using the best grade bolts available in critical points - and the REST of the hardware such as appropriate lockwashers and stuff - do that and use a decent maintenance schedule to verify it's all still holding properly - and awaaaay ya go!

 

[RustyJC]

OK, at the risk of stirring up a hornet's nest, IF the hitch or component manufacturer went with Grade 8 bolts, then that's what should be used. Conversely, some hitch manufacturers intentionally specify and use Grade 5 bolts - in those cases, they are looking for the higher ductility (measured as % elongation before tensile failure) of the lower UTS (ultimate tensile strength) Grade 5 bolt, and merely go to a larger Grade 5 bolt to get the tensile loading (clamping force) their design requires. If you've ever seen some of these hitch assemblies after a major wreck, many times the fasteners are stretched and distorted (ductility), but I've never seen the hitch break loose.



In such cases, the manufacturer's design could be compromised by haphazardly changing out the Grade 5 bolts for a higher UTS but lower ductility (more brittle) Grade 8. If the fastener can't "give" as designed to absorb the forces of the collision, something else may "give" catastrophically!



Rusty

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

YUP - that was inferred in "the best grade bolts available" and that isn't always the case hardened stuff. Some stuff requires shear strength for best performance - some needs elasticity. Sometimes it can be tricky lnowing which is best in a given situation - I know *I* am easily confused (on a WIDE variety of subjects!)... But generally, in most situations I have dealt with, I go with a good grade of stainless, or grade 8 stuff - and then cross my fingers - no problems so far...

 

[RustyJC]

Gary,



I've just heard too many people say, "Well, gol durn it. That hitch manufacturer was so cheap he just used Grade 5 bolts here. I'll yank those things out and replace 'em with these here good ol' Grade 8s. " Not always a good move.....



Rusty

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Not enough price difference between a grade 8 and grade 5 to motivate a maker to go with the lower rating - they most likely have other good reasons for doing so...

 

[RustyJC]

Originally posted by Gary - KJ6Q

Not enough price difference between a grade 8 and grade 5 to motivate a maker to go with the lower rating - they most likely have other good reasons for doing so...

That's precisely my point.



Rusty

 

[klenger]

FWIW, my PullRite hitch is mounted to the truck with grade 5 bolts, but the pin box is attached to my 5er with grade 8 bolts.