2500 vs 3500 is it worth going to 3500

[brillmtb]

Given that the 2500 has air in the rear and all the same power, is it worth going to the 3500 and possibly loose comfort just to get the aisin transmission. Is it that much better or just like the Allison 1000 in the chevy which really wasn't a 1000 afterall.

 

[HorseMan-AR]

Are you towing anything? I've got a similar thread posted on another forum asking for insight on the SRW 3500 vs a DRW. The air ride is now available on the 3500s, so I'm going the 3500 route with AISIN. Just don't know if I want DRW or SRW.

Very few issues with AISIN so far...or that have been posted. You can also get 3.73 or 4.10 axle in DRW. All the SRW trucks have 3.42 if that's a concern to you. My 2500 with air rides great, but I need a little more payload for 5th wheel upgrade potential.

 

[TFucili]

I just orded a 2500 w/6.4 gasser, but if I were ordering a SRW diesel today I would get the 3500 w/Aisin.

 

[Reno Dave]

Brillmtb,
Regardless of going with the 2500 or the 3500 there is also something you may want to consider. Some auto insurance agencies ( AAA) will not insure a 3500 because they consider the 3500 trucks as commercial vehicles. The insurance companies that I contacted who would insure a 3500 (not for commercial applications) had higher insurance premiums over the 2500. I don't know if this concerns you, but is something to consider before "pulling the trigger" on a 3500.

 

[Ram4Sam]

Brillmtb,
Regardless of going with the 2500 or the 3500 there is also something you may want to consider. Some auto insurance agencies ( AAA) will not insure a 3500 because they consider the 3500 trucks as commercial vehicles. The insurance companies that I contacted who would insure a 3500 (not for commercial applications) had higher insurance premiums over the 2500. I don't know if this concerns you, but is something to consider before "pulling the trigger" on a 3500.

I have AAA and this was not an issue, at least not with AAA here in California...........

Sam

 

[RustyJC]

I've never had an issue insuring 3500 duallies here in Texas since I generally insure the RV under the same policy, so it's evident to the insurance underwriter what the truck is used for.

Rusty

 

[NC Hauler]

I have AAA and this was not an issue, at least not with AAA here in California...........

Sam

Same here in NC with Farm Bureau, nothing special needed for my dually..

 

[garrettg84]

I've got a 2014 SRW 3500 with an AISIN. Everybody that has HD trucks has stated it's got the best ride of any HD truck they've been in - especially as compared to other 350/0s from other manufacturers. I went with the 3500 purely so I could get the AISIN. I've read too many negatives about the 68RFE to be interested in those kinds of headaches. I actually pre-ordered a 2500 and canceled (losing my deposit) to go with the 3500 with the AISIN.

 

[Apache]

I've never had any problems insuring mine either.

If I'm going to spend this kind of money on a vehicle, I want the most capability I can get. The Aisin 3500 4x4 costs a little more but the difference amortized over 5-7 years for most folks is manageable and delivers a lot of operational headroom. Above the Big Horn, the fancier trim packages are less important to me. And, unlike the good old days the new one tons ride just fine.

My two cents.

 

[Cummins12V98]

I've never had an issue insuring 3500 duallies here in Texas since I generally insure the RV under the same policy, so it's evident to the insurance underwriter what the truck is used for.

Rusty

Same here. My ryder for the MS is dirt cheap!

 

[brillmtb]

Same here. My ryder for the MS is dirt cheap!

Ok, I didn't realize the 3500 now can be purchased with the air. Isn't the front end suspension different than the 2500?

What mileage are you all getting with the 2014s. I heard that ever since the larger cummins came out it can't match the 5.9. I don't care if I loose a little but how much will I drop

 

[JLandry]

What mileage are you all getting with the 2014s.

I'm seeing 17-20 mpg on the highway at 60mph carrying 1500 lbs. of cargo, and 10-13 mpg when towing a travel trailer at 60mph. Headwinds and hills tend to put it towards the low end of those figures.

John L.

 

[brillmtb]

I'm seeing 17-20 mpg on the highway at 60mph carrying 1500 lbs. of cargo, and 10-13 mpg when towing a travel trailer at 60mph. Headwinds and hills tend to put it towards the low end of those figures.

John L.

Thanks John,

I traded in my 22 foot AF travel trailer and got a 2014 27-5L 5th wheel since my kids are too big now With my 5.9 and this 10K trailer I am right in where you quote for yours. I dont drive that easy either. I suppose this means my mileage with the new motor will drop to the 8-9 range if I recall the weight of you trailer.

Just curious why you went with the 4.10. Seems lower than I was thinking of getting but with a 6 speed instead of my 4 speed perhaps I should consider this. I think a 3.4? comes with the 2500 and mine has a 3.73 if I recall correctly and that has been ok. Just need more gears.

 

[HorseMan-AR]

The front suspension should be the same on the 2500 and 3500. So, have you made a final decision? Curious to see what you decide.

 

[mrkstrk]

The air suspension on the 3500 is not the same as a 2500, the 3500 has a leaf spring in conjuction with the air suspension, something to consider on the ride issue. The max gvwr on a 2500 is 10,000 lbs, the max on a 3500 is either 11,700 or 12,400 depending on the cab, both 4x4 cc diesel, auto weigh in at 8000 lbs, quite a difference in cargo carrying capability. I have 1 of each all things being equal except the 2500 vs 3500 (air ride vs leaf spring) I would go the 3500. Also the air ride is not the same as after market units. The factory compressor will not pump the bags after a leak, nitrogen accumilator involved, something for you to look into.

 

[JLandry]

Just curious why you went with the 4.10.

Basically because I wanted the maximum pulling power and towing capacity available. To me, any added cost of having slightly lower fuel economy in exchange for the better pulling power and reduced drivetrain stress is worth it. Quite frankly, I didn't buy this truck looking to get great fuel economy... I bought it primarily for towing. I don't commute and I rarely drive over 60mph (even when the speed limit is higher). I just leave earlier so I'm rarely in a hurry to get anywhere.

Having said that, if I wasn't able to find this same truck with a 4.10 axle ratio, then I still would've bought it. All reports indicate these trucks pull great with any of the gear ratios offered. Very few members of this forum have expressed unhappiness with their truck's axle ratio. There's just so much extra engine power available, it's not an issue... unless maybe when approaching maximum towing weights in mountainous terrain.

Bottom line: I wouldn't waste too much time worrying about what axle ratio you end up with. Other features and options are probably much more important for most buyers.

Best regards,

John L.

 

[Brocky]

Brill

The first question you have to answer is: How big are you towing??? and how much, how far???

I traded my 06 F-250, beefed up with Firestone air bag helpers, for my DRW 3500 as I am towing 13-14,000 lb of 32 foot goose neck enclosed trailer and there is a BIG difference in how much better it handles, much better stability.. And actually with out the trailer the 3500 rides better than the 250.. I have the 3.73 rears and feel that they are a good all around combo as I only tow about a third of the time. Towing (23,000 gross) I topped Fancy Gap on I-77 in VA at 60 MPH without having my foot all the way in it.. and Got 11 MPG on 1100 mile to Winchester VA and back with the cruise set on 68 most of the way.

As for the insurance I am with State Farm and by going commercial I am actually paying about $300 LESS than I was for the 250.

 

[RustyJC]

Just curious why you went with the 4.10. Seems lower than I was thinking of getting but with a 6 speed instead of my 4 speed perhaps I should consider this. I think a 3.4? comes with the 2500 and mine has a 3.73 if I recall correctly and that has been ok. Just need more gears.

Well, I'm not John, but a key difference is that the Aisin and 68RFE 6-speed automatics have two (2) overdrives, not one like the 47/48RE, NV5600, etc. I had 4.10s in my 2002 3500 ETH/DEE (NV5600), and 60 MPH in 6th gear was 2000 RPM - it's 1612 RPM in 6th in my 2011 that also has 4.10s.

Whereas the 4.10s used to be an excellent towing gear but a headache for Interstate cruising when empty, with the double overdrive 6-speed automatics it's a great all-around gear choice thanks to the TALL 6th gear in the transmission.

Rusty

 

[brillmtb]

Well, I'm not John, but a key difference is that the Aisin and 68RFE 6-speed automatics have two (2) overdrives, not one like the 47/48RE, NV5600, etc. I had 4.10s in my 2002 3500 ETH/DEE (NV5600), and 60 MPH in 6th gear was 2000 RPM - it's 1612 RPM in 6th in my 2011 that also has 4.10s.

Whereas the 4.10s used to be an excellent towing gear but a headache for Interstate cruising when empty, with the double overdrive 6-speed automatics it's a great all-around gear choice thanks to the TALL 6th gear in the transmission.

Rusty

Wow, lots of great info.

Since I went to 285 tires on my 03, stock 265, the 3.73 rear put me a little lower in rpm then I would have liked given the sweet spot at 1900rpm when I was towing. When empty it didnt matter. Given the rims i believe are larger on the new trucks vs my 17 inch, the lower rear diff may be better given that it seems what you are saying is that there are two over drives <1.0.

Up a couple of responses, forget in this reply who said it, it was noted that the 3500 rides better than the 2500? That is different than what the dealer is telling me. Also, are you saying that it would be better to get the 3500 and add aftermarket air since it does not adjust for leaks or you are happy with the OEM? It seems that air 2500 and air over spring 3500 should ride very different based on compression of air vs metal?

With regards to mileage, I too am not concerned with dropping a few mpg if the truck is better than my 03 for towing, features, etc.

Thanks everyone. Will call up the Dave Smith dealership and see what they can do for me.

 

[RVTRKN]

Brillmtb,
Regardless of going with the 2500 or the 3500 there is also something you may want to consider. Some auto insurance agencies ( AAA) will not insure a 3500 because they consider the 3500 trucks as commercial vehicles. The insurance companies that I contacted who would insure a 3500 (not for commercial applications) had higher insurance premiums over the 2500. I don't know if this concerns you, but is something to consider before "pulling the trigger" on a 3500.

Not entirely true, I have my 3500 C&C insured through AAA, and the VIN number for a C&C in Comifornia designates it as a true commercial Vehicle. I can't even re-register it at AAA avoiding the Gestapo (DMV) every year. If it had been a regular 3500 Pickup, I would not have had to worry about it. The Truck was orignally insured through Farmers from delivery without any issues, and then I insured it for commercial use and I registered it for 26K pounds. When I went to take it out of commercial operation, there were two issues I ran into, the 1st was the DMV would not allow me to go back to the original registration designating it as a traditional 3500 Pickup. The 2nd was AAA, who I had changed to from Farmers insurance during the period the C&C was in commercial operation, would not insure it, claiming it was commercial and they won't register or insure commercial Vehicles. I threatened AAA that I would change insurance companies and take all of my insurance needs else where. They relented, but it had to be photographed and inspected by their agents. The picture of the 3500 C&C and 5ver below is insured through AAA.