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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 2nd Gen Dash cracks

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission What's it worth

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Well, they said Chrysler will provide the part free of charge all I have to do is pay for the labor :eek: $350. 00.



I just started replacing mine today. Dash top plus paint $175. That means only $175 labor. Now that I know what the job entails, I'd pay it. (Assuming I had a dealer I could trust to do it right the first time)
 
I just started replacing mine today. Dash top plus paint $175. That means only $175 labor. Now that I know what the job entails, I'd pay it. (Assuming I had a dealer I could trust to do it right the first time)
Dealers are a problem. I have heard there are good ones but I never have found any. Looking at it logically they are in business to make all the money they can. It is the type of business that attracts those who take advantage of the fact that everybody that walks through the door is a potential victim. They hustle people every day and the average person is at a disadvantage because they are seldom there and have not learned their game. Take your pocket calculator with you and check your bill.
 
the news reporter is saying that some of the people are paying 100 dollars for the repair after they aired the story, however even he said dodge is hit or miss on the repair and the price.
 
I think the cracks are due more to the quality of raw materials used than anything else. The dash in my '98 still looks almost like it did when I got it in October, '97. I've cleaned and treated it *maybe* four times total. It almost always has dust/dirt on it, and has always been parked outdoors without a sun shade.



A little boost to my quality of materials theory: my '84 200SX had cracks on the doors and dash after two years (about 90K miles). Nissan was aware of the problem and said it was related to the raw plastic used to make the parts. As with most vinyl, it is probably extreme heat that exacerbates the problem: the 'solvents' that keep the plastic soft and pliable are cooked out in high heat conditions, and if the raw material isn't properly mixed/prepared, the material will probably fail sooner than later.
 
Can't take that long to install a dash.



Wanna bet? There are 5 screws above the glove box that come in from the back, plus a couple others that are hidden. This is what I had to do to get mine out. Nearly all the wire harnesses disconnected, remove all accessory wires that I installed, etc. Had to remove the drivers seat, block up the drivers side of the dash to keep it off the steering wheel and lost some blood to boot.
 
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Wanna bet? There are 5 screws above the glove box that come in from the back, plus a couple others that are hidden. This is what I had to do to get mine out. Nearly all the wire harnesses disconnected, remove all accessory wires that I installed, etc. Had to remove the drivers seat, block up the drivers side of the dash to keep it off the steering wheel and lost some blood to boot.



Oh boy, it will never run again:-laf.

Seriously tho, looks like a real mess. Sure glad they do not use steel anymore as we would miss out on all this training.



Dave
 
Wanna bet? There are 5 screws above the glove box that come in from the back, plus a couple others that are hidden. This is what I had to do to get mine out. Nearly all the wire harnesses disconnected, remove all accessory wires that I installed, etc. Had to remove the drivers seat, block up the drivers side of the dash to keep it off the steering wheel and lost some blood to boot.
WOW!:eek: You had to do all that just to remove the top panel of the dash? And I thought this would be a 1 hour job. :{



Dave
 
Dave,



One hour huh? If you have all the tools ready at hand, (I had to fabricate a tool for those 5 screws behind and above the glove box) and are very flexible you might get the old one off in 2 to 3 hours. I can't give you an estimate for re-assembly. I need a rivet tool for the VIN plate and my neighbor, who has one, hasn't come home yet.



The upside is it makes access to the HVAC a lot easier. I pulled the heater coil as described in issue 46, bombed the spray nozzle tube of a garden sprayer, and flushed the A/C coils of 10 years of gunk with cleaner, then plain water. What water I captured was NASTY! Hopefully my A/C will cool a little better now.



Gary



On edit, FWIW. when I sprayed the A/C coils I also pulled the fan and motor from the bottom of the HVAC and attacked the coils from both sides. I slid some 5/8 heater hose over the drain tube to route the waste water out of the cab.
 
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Dave,



One hour huh? If you have all the tools ready at hand, (I had to fabricate a tool for those 5 screws behind and above the glove box) and are very flexible you might get the old one off in 2 to 3 hours. I can't give you an estimate for re-assembly. I need a rivet tool for the VIN plate and my neighbor, who has one, hasn't come home yet... .....



Gary
Geez... . I'm not looking forward to doing this job! I was going to buy a dash cover but it cost close to what the new dash panel costs. But... . :rolleyes:... the cover is a whole lot faster to do. :D My dash is cracked all the way in the middle and another crack is 3 inches long next to windshield. I may be able to get by with a cover ... but I'd like to do what you are doing and do it right. Ahem... what to do. :confused::{



Dave
 
When I bought my '98 in February it came with a fabric dash cover. After reading this post I decided to look underneath and see what horrible damage it was hiding.

The result - not a single crack and the dash looks like new. The previous owner must have been using the cover for many years since the truck wintered in Nevada. So, as much as I dislike the look of the dash mat I'm going to keep using it. Apparently, they work.
 
Dash covers still dont stop the cracks, neither does frequent dusting, it will just happen if your lucky it wont. Mines always clean and dash cover since day one. lifted it. all cracked. Everyone needs to quit looking for the answer, poor quality.
 
What was your build date mediccummin? I'm convinced that I got the beefy dash along with my 53 block since it was an early '01 (MFR Date 2-00). :)
 
I didn't realize you had a failure with your engine. Sorry to hear about that. Every once in awhile I get a whiff of anti-freeze and imagine the worst, but it always turns out to be my wife's Durango spittin' out a little.
 
I can count myself as lucky. I had a 95 maroon that sat outside for 10 years and didn't crack. Had a 99 charcoal that was 50-50 in or out didn't crack. Now my 02 charcoal that sits inside 90% of the time and no cracks. No covers,sun shades,protectant or cleaner used on any of them. It just collects dust that much faster. But they get dusted regularly.
 
The finished product. Took it on a 2 week, 7000 mile test drive with no electrical problems, but I do have a squeak I need to find.



Looks good. I have used 303 protectant and a dash cover on mine since new and seems to be ok. Maybe they did not have time to put the 53 brazilian dash board in. They did manage to get the block in tho.



Dave
 
Wanna bet? There are 5 screws above the glove box that come in from the back, plus a couple others that are hidden. This is what I had to do to get mine out. Nearly all the wire harnesses disconnected, remove all accessory wires that I installed, etc. Had to remove the drivers seat, block up the drivers side of the dash to keep it off the steering wheel and lost some blood to boot.







I hope you can remember how to put it back together!
 
Hummmmmmmmm, and I thought it was only a few screws :eek:. I guess the plastic weld I used will probably be a little more permanent. Its lasted for three months so far. I originally did the plastic weld as temporary fix until I could go to pick your parts and find a top piece after summer when it gets cooler to work in driveway. Maybe I still try to find a top piece, and just look at it.
 
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