I used the XRF kit from The Tire Club for the 94-96 2wd trucks and they seem to be working fine. I've got two days on them driving around on nasty roads and its so much better. I didn't realize how bad the OEM ball joints had gotten. My lower driver's side ball joint was toast and had way too much play, it was really bad and close to failure. I waited too long. I knew it was not safe so the truck was pretty much parked till I did something.
The good local shop wanted $1146.00 for just the ball joints. I paid $189 for the XRF package, rented the press from Advanced Auto for free and had to buy a decent puller for less than $45. I had the other tools already for the most part. My socket set didn't cover the size needed for the spindle nut so I bought a 3/4 drive set from Harbor Freight. I used a 35mm on the spindle nut, I wanted to repack the bearings and just in case wanted the correct socket for seating new bearing if needed. I was able to reuse the OEM bearings though. I have a dually so I needed the socket and extension to remove the nut, it was only finger tight but the deep rotor hub made it harder to reach by hand.
So even with the tools added to the cost and grease and a new grease gun, I was under $400. I had a few luxuries like a seal remover tool and some brake high temp grease, bearing packer, brake fluid and some miscellaneous stuff I was still under $400. I guess it was worth it, sure beats $1200 and I did the brakes too.
On the 2wd you need the ball joint press for install and removal of the upper joints and just for install for the lower. The lower joints didn't want to press out actually, my rental kit didn't have the power to push them without bending. So a 10lb sledge came in handy and made quick work of the old lower ball joints. Taking my time I could do the whole job with bearings and brake service in 6 hours or less with snacks and drinks, I would guess 4 hours if I was in a hurry.
My 1995 was all original, no welds, no wallowed out holes. The bottoms took the most effort. You need a long handle 1/2" or 3/4" ratchet to work the ball joint press without killing yourself. My C-Clamp took a 7/8" socket well using my long 1/2" drive ratchet. My torque wrench was a bit over taxed putting 150 lbs on the lower nuts, an air impact gun is a good idea. Maybe I torqued the nuts too tight, they set different then the stockers. I didn't look at my manual, I went by the XRF directions, start with 35lbs at the lower joint, then 70lbs on top and finish with 150lbs on bottom. Well, the thing drives much better now anyway, after 50 miles they smoothed up and the power steering pump sounds normal.
It was not easy, my first time. But, it will be a simple job if I do it again. I probably would get new upper arms next time, that press in upper ball joint hole wasn't as tight as I would expect. But they were not loose using the XRF's. Just didn't feel that tight when pressing in using my long handle ratchet, the lower joints were almost twice the effort. I figure it will get too loose for the uppers if used a 3rd time. Maybe just weld in the next set or replace the arms totally, the bushing will be totally shot by then anyway.
The XRF joints were very tight, could not turn by hand. Nicer quality than OEM, heavier, slightly longer and greasable. Not bad for $189 shipped, cheaper than the Moog Problem Solvers from Advanced. And only about $30 more than the Moogs on Amazon with the awesome price. Amazon was 1/2 the price of my local parts stores, but the XRF deal was too close in price to pass up off eBay. The Tire Club had quick shipping and they answered my size questions via email.
If you have a pre-96 2wd, make sure the lower ball joints are original. Some have had the lower control arms changed out to post 97 versions which take a larger ball joint. Thats why some shops/dealers have welded in the smaller pre-96 ball joints in the later control arms. And some are riveted, so make sure you know what you have before ordering parts.
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