3500 Chassis Cab Hybrid Build up by LORENZindustries.com

[Lorenz]

I went and bought a 3500 Chassis Cab because I needed the extra umph in the GVWR. It has a 9350# rear axle payload compared to the 6000# rear axle payload capacity on my 2500. Here's the door stickers for a comparo.

'08 3500 CC

#ad



'03 2500

#ad




The 12,500 GVWR is a big advantage compared to the 9000 GVWR of my 2500 when I have the Lance 931 Camper and 34' Enclosed trailer in tow. The Lucas Oil Off Road Series is spreading it's wings and heading out to Utah, Nevada, Arizona, and California next year. We'll be racing and photographing it in 2010, so the heavily loaded towing mileage is going to add up. We were able to head out to LOORRS this year with ONLY the camper in tow and left the trailer at home because we weren't racing. I'm excited that the Race Trailer AND Camper will be in tow in 2010. LORENZstudio.com is our Photography site for the curious.

The front clip on the 3500 Chassis Cabs are almost identical to the 2500 and 3500 non Chassis Cab 3rd Gen trucks suspension wise (I hope the Mods don't mind me posting the build in the "Chassis Cab" and "3rd Gen" sections as the build applies to both trucks). The Truck is a Hybrid, with a ridiculously large rear channeled frame and bigger axles front and rear. The front section of the frame rails are the "standard" boxed 2500/3500 that we see on all 3rd Gens. We'll be adding our front end suspension components to the build and reaching out to Rayco Grainning Suspensions for a rear air bag solution. I'm still undecided if were going to add the Rayco Grainning rear air bag setup to our retail site? Is there a market for a 3500 Chassis Cab air bag setup?

I was hoping to use the CC as a daily driver after I made a flat bed for it. The rear main springs and overloads wouldn't allow that to happen. I pulled all the "cheap, good ride tricks" out of the book by keeping a little weight out back in the way of a full tank of diesel all the time. The tank is rated at 55 gallons. I was able to get 60+ gallons into it, or @ 500lbs. I lowered the dually tire pressure, and changed over to singles but I was still coming home with sore kidneys. The stock 3500 CC has an ride that only real men can handle. I cried on the way to the Chiropractor after a couple months of abuse.

Here's the virgin, untouched, in all her glory. Deefor Dog loved it more than I did. I'll follow up with a picture buildup.

#ad

 

[Lorenz]

#ad


My first step was to yank the Dualies and go with Toyo MT's 37's. I wanted to keep as high of a rating out back as I could, but wanted singles as it's a purpose built daily driver. 37" Toyo's have the highest rating without going to 19. 5" at 8600lbs combined. The Stock Ameritrac Dualies are rated at 11,340 combined.

#ad


I used our Extended Control Arms to aid in fitting the 37's into the stock wheel wells. . 5" forward is all I needed to get them to clear the fender were the mud flap would be. I'll fine tune them back a hair to 3/8" longer than stock, now that I see I have more room in the back fender area. The front of the wheel well needed some inner liner trimming. I took the valence off, but will probably put it back on after I trim it up.

I think the 3500 CC have a slightly shorter axle width than the standard 2500 and 3500's, even after Pablo removed the dually spacer. The Toyos scrub the sway bar and the new arms more than expected with stock 6" backspaced Dodge wheels. I think I may have to have Walker Evans make me some 5. 25" backspaced wheels? The H2 Wheels may work perfectly in this application?

As a side note, If you're in the San Diego area and are in need of a Cummins Trained Mechanic to work on your junk, I would highly recommend TDR Member Pablo Madrid, (619) 261-3682. The guy is methodical, and thorough, and I have no problem putting our name behind his work. He did this control arm install.

#ad

#ad


The Arms are a pretty straight forward install. Unbolt the OEMs, adjust the new ones to your desired extension and bolt them into place. The only hang up is the upper passenger side frame bolt. The turbo turn down is in the way and was unbolted and moved to the side in order to remove the bolt.

#ad

#ad


Pablo used a paint marker to keep the alignment in place. The cam bolt was marked and I had no issues with wander after the install, and didn't need to take it down to the alignment shop.

#ad


The new arms are adjustable... the whole reason I replaced out perfectly good OEM set before their time. Pablo double checked the . 5" extension twice on the ground, then once more when they were in place. I like thoroughness... It took an extra 10 minutes for the triple check, and saved me any headaches down the road.

#ad


The rod ends and locking nuts were marked for safty. This is an easy way to spot check them on down the road. If the Arms, Locking Nut, or Rod Ends move it will be easy to see. A quick re torque after 200 miles, and visual inspected every oil change is good preventative maintenance.

#ad


Re torque everything to proper spec before moving on.


#ad

 

[Lorenz]

#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad


#ad

BEFORE​

AFTER​

#ad
#ad

 

[Lorenz]

#ad

#ad








#ad

#ad

 

[Regcabguy]

Nice!

Nice work up photos. Pablo does indeed do good work. Always the perfectionist.

 

[CumminsBu]

Looks awesome? Are you going to be sell those control arm you made?

 

[Lorenz]

Looks awesome? Are you going to be sell those control arm you made?

You bet. We've had them out for a couple month.



+++ Radius Arms +++

 

[Lorenz]

Thanks Bob for bringing the post up to the top again and remininding me to post and update.

Here's the rear airbag suspension components. The truck is now my favorite of the two (03 2500 vs 08 3500 CC). I drive the 3500 CC as a daily driver. The kidneys no longer take abuse, and the airbag set up is highly recommended if you want to tame the ride, while adding ride height adjustability, and better over the road manners. The jarring, kicking, buckn' bronco ride is gone.

I have been running the rear suspension with out the kneeling feature or the on-board air compressor/tank setup. I air the bags up like you would a tire at a gas station, or at home with the compressor I have in the garage. I ran the air bags' hoses and schreader valves to a convenient spot under the flat bed next to the diesel fill cap. I like the set up, and it has proven to be convenient enough. That said, having an onboard compressor would be nice for the occasional socker ball air up, or inflatable mattress, or to air out the cab of the truck before a detailing. Having the onboard compressor to air up the bags would be equally nice.

I have to air up the tires to 65psi when loaded, and the air compressor would be nice. It takes 15minutes each tire with my Costco emergency compressor, and about 2 minutes with the Garage air, or 5-6 minutes at the gas station. I'm curious as to how quick each tire fill will be with the on board air when I get it installed on the truck? Any guesses guys?

That said, the compressor and tank are on the list of projects to complete.


#ad

#ad

#ad

#ad

#ad

 

[Lorenz]

The OEM springs weigh a ton. I needed a hand to pull them off the truck once they were unbolted.

#ad

#ad



The new Airbag suspension was installed in an afternoon. If you look real close you can see a white nylon plate bolted to the frame. This is how the rear axle stays centered under the frame. It was a little wake me up when they engaged for the first time. I had my Lance Camper on when I pulled into a driveway with a little bit of speed. There was a little bump as the nylon sliders engaged on the axle. I had to get out to see what it was, thinking I had possibly missed something when installing the kit. I was only 2 hours into the new suspension's maiden voyage at that point. All was well, everything was working as designed. I find the sliders only engage coming in and out of steep driveways when there's a heavy load on the truck. I have yet to feel them engage when unladen. I have 10k miles on the system so far.

The only other hickup that I could find was near the passenger side linkage, near the exhaust. If you look close under the exhaust tip you can see there is a tight clearance. As the suspension cycles it would slightly rub the exhaust tip. Not an issue, not even a pronounced thunk, but I did run into trouble when I put the cloth heat shield over the exhaust tip. I had to clearance the suspension link by cutting off . 75". Everything clears now and it won't tear up the heat shield. I think every truck my be slightly different in this area because not all exhausts are bent and radiused EXACTLY the same from the factory. Combine the tight clearance with a slightly different bend in the exhaust and your truck my not have to be moded.

#ad

#ad

#ad

#ad

#ad

#ad

 

[HOBrian]

Looks great!! I have no idea how I missed this thread!

 

[RWood]

Where did the air suspension come from? Looks like a good kit.

 

[Lorenz]

The Rear Suspension is a Rayco Granning Product. It's 3500 Chassis Cab specific. They make a 4500 and 5500 version as well. I looked high and low for something that I would feel right about putting my name behind.

I've talked to the them about carrying a modified version like you see here. I want to carry the bare minimum suspension components only. Everything minus the air tank and on-board compressor, the electronics that go with it, and the extra equipment for the kneeling option. I'd do it this way to cut costs to the end user.

We've discussed making a package specifically for LORENZindustries, but I haven't followed through. With the economy the way that it is, I haven't found a market for it. 3500 CC are not a dime a dozen like the other trucks.

I'd pursue carrying the System along side the rest of our line up if I could find 5 guys to jump in on the first order.

 

[Spooled05]

I would be interested in a kit for a non cc duall if they make one.

 

[RWood]

I've got a 91 cc 3500 that I would be interested in.

 

[Bob4x4]

No panhard rod???

 

[Lorenz]

This rear airbag suspension is for the 2008-present Cab and Chassis trucks only. The one in the pictures, is for the 3500 C&C. The 4500 & 5500 suspensions are a different design than the ones pictured.

The front half of the 3500 C&C is the same as the 2500/3500 trucks. We'll be incorporating some or my existing suspension products to front half of this beast. The HD control arms are an example. I have them on my 2500 and the 3500 C&C.

If your looking for the soft ride on the standard 2003-2010 2500/3500 4x4 trucks, check out our website and the Plush Ride Dual Purpose Leafs in particular. We've had these systems on the market for a couple years.

Your right bob. No pan rod bar, the nylon sliders on the frame keep 4 points of contact just like a standard leaf spring would. No welding on the frame or on the axel to make pan rod bar brackets.

 

[kblranch]

What tires are those that show a weight rating of 4300#?

 

[Lorenz]

What tires are those that show a weight rating of 4300#?

Toyo 37x13. 5x17 have a 4300# rating as a single. It's The highest rated single if you want to stick with the 17" wheel.



The problem with these tires is they're obnoxiously big in the width dept and a little too tall for my liking. They require the adjustable control arms to fit properly in our trucks. I would recomend running a 5. 5"-5. 75" backspaced wheel as well. The stock 6" backspaced wheel tends to rub on the sway bar and control arms at full lock on the standard 2500/3500 trucks.



On my 3500 C&C truck they definately require a 5. 5" backspaced wheels. The C&C trucks have a narrower front axel. Remember this truck had huge dualley spacers that were removed when it got the single rear wheel conversion.



The Toyo MT's tend to last 30-40k miles as well. Generally most MT's, of any Mnf, tend to wear fairly quickly.



I'm looking at all of the 19. 5 options when these wear out. I have a hard time spending hundreds of dollars on a custom built 19. 5" wheel. But, the 19. 5s would be ideal on this truck.

 

[RWood]

I have the vision 81 wheels in 19. 5 and the toyo 245/70/19. 5 and I love them. I'll probly try a Goodyear retread to cut the cost in half.

 

[AH64ID]

Toyo 37x13. 5x17 have a 4300# rating as a single. It's The highest rated single if you want to stick with the 17" wheel.

Brigning up an old thread, but you may have some info I am looking for.



Have you ever been able to determine the rating for the OEM wheel. I have asked Dodge multiple times and have been given a different answer every time, 3100lbs, 3195lbs, or not available.



I would like to run an increased capacity tire, but it will not do any good if the OEM wheel isn't rated for it.