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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 370's are too hot! What other options are there?

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Well, after sliding my plate all the way back my egt's are still too hot when i'm hauling the camper. ~900 on a flat highway at 65 and a slight grade will bring it up 1150+ in no time. Passing is not an option. 35mph climbing the mountains gets me to 1200+ just maintaining speed.



Are there other injectors that'll drop the egt's by 200+ degrees and still keep the power or should i just got back to the 215's?



Thanks

Brian
 
With a B1-2 you are still a little warm? What kind of boost numbers are you running. Maybe you are overboosting and heating things up a bit?



You could try going back to 181 DV's but I'm not sure that will give you enough EGT relief. I don't think it will be 200 degrees.



Do you need all the power while towing? I'm sure you want all the power when playing though :D You might try a valet switch. Mine has worked great for towing. This way your governor arm never gets off the AFC foot and will not cut into the heavier fueling on the plate.



Of course different injectors is another choice. You probably have already given up the most of the power gained by the 370s over the 215s because you have moved your plate back. It's fueling at a different spot so it may still feel different but I bet peak overall HP is not too much different.
 
Thanks guys



I'm sure part of the problem is that i have a PacBrake that's an elbow mount at the exhaust housing, hence the B-1-2-EX3. Thats something i'm not wanting to give up (i've over heated the brakes a few times without it). As for delivery valves, i went to the 191's to get rid of a bad stumble. I've not run the 215's before, i went from the stock injectors to the 370's.



No, i don't NEED all the power when towing but i do WANT it when empty :-laf In fact, i can't use but maybe half the power i have now when hauling so it's useless to me except when empty.



As for the boost, i can get it up to 50 if i want but just crusing when loaded i'm at ~20 or less, unless i get the rpm's above 2200 or so.



So what is a valet switch? how's it work and where does it go?



Brian
 
900 = fine, 1150 = fine, 1200 = fine...



1400-1500 for a few seconds while passing = fine



you realize that 3rd gen trucks will hit 1500* bone stock and hold it endlessly, right? :D



I think you might be worrying too much, but a cleaner burning injector will bring EGT's down... it'll just cost you a good deal more than those 370's did :(



Forrest
 
Yep, Pre turbo



I'd really like to have my cake and eat to, plenty of power empty and low egt's when hauling. Am i asking for too much from injectors? Twins are too much $$$ right now.



Brian
 
Bhale said:
As for delivery valves, i went to the 191's to get rid of a bad stumble. I've not run the 215's before, i went from the stock injectors to the 370's.



No, i don't NEED all the power when towing but i do WANT it when empty :-laf In fact, i can't use but maybe half the power i have now when hauling so it's useless to me except when empty.



As for the boost, i can get it up to 50 if i want but just crusing when loaded i'm at ~20 or less, unless i get the rpm's above 2200 or so.



So what is a valet switch? how's it work and where does it go?







Did you have the stumble before the installation of the 370s? Usually 180 pumps with 181 DV's are fine to run 370s.



I would consider a valet switch. Then you will be running off the 370s and DVs only and take the plate out of your fueling. It cuts off the boost signal to the AFC so the "foot" doesn't move out of the way. Cost about $85 and takes about 30 minutes to install.



Although the B1 will tolerate 50psi of boost much past 38-40 psi and you are actually hurting your HP and EGTs. I think Jetpiolet has found 38psi to be the optimal efficiency for a B1-2.
 
Signal73 said:
Hows the smoke/egt's with 191's and 370's with the valet switch in? Thanks.



Smoke when? With what charger?



The 370's are pretty smokey valet switch or not and the 191 certainly don't help. You are still going to get a fair amount of pre-boost smoke but you are not going to fog out any intersections.



It could be driven to minimize smoke but it is still going to be fairly smokey with a heavy right foot.
 
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Forrest Nearing said:
900 = fine, 1150 = fine, 1200 = fine...

1400-1500 for a few seconds while passing = fine

you realize that 3rd gen trucks will hit 1500* bone stock and hold it endlessly, right? :D

Forrest



Careful Forrest... you do realize there are quite a few differences between a 12v and an 03+, which allow the new trucks to handle more heat.
 
Im still curious how Your running the 370's on a 94-95 160 Pump



Had them in my brothers truck No Aneriod No Fuel plate And it was a POS



If you have your DV's cut and 3000RPM springs are the 370's bareable He dont really care too much about EGT's ... LOL



Thanks

DM
 
I pull an 11K fiver and see about the same temps as you. That's with stock injectors and DV's,#10 plate full forward. I never gave it a second thought.

Joe
 
How much weight is that camper? Not to long ago I towed a truck box off a straight truck. Ran about 900 degrees on flat. That box had lots of drag. Pushing 5 psi of boost even going down hill. Once the box was unloaded off my 33' goose neck. Towing just the goose neck. Only hundred degrees higher and 2 psi more than not towing anything at all.
 
DieselMinded said:
Im still curious how Your running the 370's on a 94-95 160 Pump



The truck in question is a 1996 auto which has a 180 pump.



As I said though in the other thread there are quite a few members successuflly running 370's on a 160 pump.
 
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