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Competition 370's spray pattern pic

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Competition The new ride : )

Competition The rumors are true....

GSK Kits.....

I never had to touch the foot petal down to -20 starting preGSK. I notice very little change in very cold idle versus a warm idle back then. The GSK really increase the difference between cold and warm idle. While it is easy enough to hold the pedal down slightly when starting it is a pain to have to keep holding it or add a stick after. I also have a real bad idle bounce (idle rebound) summer and winter. Tempted to put the stock GSKs back in for the winter.



I do not run very high timing (wish it was little higher) run slightly less compression with . 012 thicker gasket difference since head work. What I do have is the very stinky, obnoxious, thick white smoke that starts at temps around 30.



I have my idle set just under 1K. If the GSKs would keep it there when cold it would fire right off. I do run 5w40 Mobil Delvac and premium #2 with Amalgated treatment. Staying below zero all day today with a brisk wind to boot.





jjw

ND
 
yeah, I had a good ol time starting my truck this morning... didn't plug it in... 15* outside, truck sitting for 36+ hrs... it was bouncing so hard even at 1200rpm, I had to let it die and start it up again...



I'm going to be getting one of those hand throttle cable setups one of these days for stuff like that and to have a poor man's cruise control when there's no traffic on the highway...



Forrest
 
That's what I used to do, even before I installed the injectors and went through the pump. Only thing is, I held it down a bit after it fired for a smoke show. :) A guy told me to try it, I was gullable, and thought it was cool. It started to get old and annoying though. :p



A guy hinted me to do that after I installed the injectors and worked on the pump. He said to do that all the time, for full starting fuel. :confused:



With the truck in the garage, I can let it crank until it fires good and it usually takes off. Just takes a few seconds. I was holding down on the pedal exactly like you said Gene, until I started noticing that the east walk-in door was turning black. :-laf Now when in the garage I just let it start without throttle. Cuts down on the smoke drastically.



Went out to start the truck today after sitting outside overnight plugged in, in single digit below 0 temps. Cycled the grid heaters twice, fired right up. Even faster than it does when parked in the garage. Didn't even have the idle lope, or the stall when it started. Started up just like it does when it's warm. :) Can't believe it! :D
 
CNichols said:
Mine used to start just fine even if i didnt plug it in dow into the singles... Now if its in the low twentys, i still cycle the grids 3 times then attempt to start it will almost start then i cycle them once more give it a tiny bit of throttle just past where all the slack is out then may be an 1/8th inch more. it fires right away then and stumbles a bit then will smooth out... never had to do this but i had my timming set in OCT.



That doesn't sound right to me. When I changed my timing from 13. 3* to 15. 25* it runs smoother in the morning. It always lights off instantly.



When it's in the low 20s and I don't plug it in, she lights off instantly even if I only wait about 5 seconds and don't let the initial heat cycle finish. It runs smooth but only at about 550 - 600 RPM right at first, but it doesn't stumble at all and revs nicely to 1200 - 1400. I run the revs up to about 1500 a few times for a little warmup then take right off driving easy. This is a 367k mile motor with a . 010" over gasket.



Vaughn
 
Jim Fulmer said:
Granted the 370's could be better but it's hard to beat the price, yea a guy could work on the head (if it was off) and make them work better but it just seems much easier to buy a different injector that started out with a new tip and adjusted the pattern for this, I don't like Marine piston cause the compression is just too low by the time you fly cut them for a real cam.



Most people don't start there(High HP)trucks at 10 degrees F without being plugged in, did that this morning!



Jim



Now that I have my head off mine it's easy to see the advantages of the EDM tip, my pistons looked much better than the one I posted and I run allot more timing than 17.



BOTW, the new motor's pistons will work even better than the stockers... ..... Thanks Piers, I see what you mean once again.



Jim
 
Someone mentioned about a "Full Fuel Start" Don't the racks in inline pumps default to full fuel when you shut them down? There is no force on the governor to move the rack out of fuel. just a thought





Will
 
True, but you have to think, there is a transition taking place during and in the final stage of cranking the engine over. Then the spring on the bottom of the rocker lever is allowed to be decompressed, which in the end allows the control rod for the rack to slide back. That is basically what happens, less a few other things that I feel isn't necessary to mention. But yes there is an excess fuel stop on these pumps.
 
Vaughn MacKenzie said:
That doesn't sound right to me. When I changed my timing from 13. 3* to 15. 25* it runs smoother in the morning. It always lights off instantly.



When it's in the low 20s and I don't plug it in, she lights off instantly even if I only wait about 5 seconds and don't let the initial heat cycle finish. It runs smooth but only at about 550 - 600 RPM right at first, but it doesn't stumble at all and revs nicely to 1200 - 1400. I run the revs up to about 1500 a few times for a little warmup then take right off driving easy. This is a 367k mile motor with a . 010" over gasket.



Vaughn



Yeah, im going to have to get the timming double checked it could be a bit more then i think it is due to complications that me and a friend ran into setting it from directions given to us by piers.
 
Nope, there not Marine's, there a higher compression piston milled to what I wanted and needed to clear the cam, but they are 155 degree spray pattern versions... ..... the bowl is 3 tenths of an inch wider than the stockers and with what I got to see on the old ones using my EDM's and the pattern verses the timing I was running... ... ... ..... it's going to be fun!



Jim
 
Where did you get those pistons? Piers? How much(ballpark) does it cost for them? You can pm me if you dont want to post the price.



Jordan
 
J. R. Adkins said:
It only cost about $15 per injector hole to bore it. That would fix it.

J. R.
You mean this tighten the Spray Pattern ?? Besides smoke reduction, whatelse would this accomplish ??


Would this work on 370 Marines ??
 
Katmandu said:
You mean this tighten the Spray Pattern ?? Besides smoke reduction, whatelse would this accomplish ??





Would this work on 370 Marines ??



IMHO, before I pulled the head off to solve the crappy spray pattern of the 370's I would look for a better injector. Sure it will cost more but it will be better in more ways than just the spray pattern.



If you have the head off that is another story.
 
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