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Injection Pump wiring

bob simerly's ve pump

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It's possible but things are gonna get more expensive. Bigger turbo like the ones stated before and some bigger injectors that nobody has :rolleyes: . You will have to have the custom made. Then you will need all the little stuff to make the pump and engine hold up to it, like enough fuel supply and maybe at least head studs.
 
ok so what would i have to do to the head gasket what would be a good one to put on their since the stock ones r wont hold up past 40 pounds of boost also im getting the head ported and polished will that help? and what kind of mods would i have to do to keep fuel flowing ima keep the pods but im gonna runs twins also what do i need to do to the head?
 
Port and polish of the head should help flow. Just a warning, you will drop boost, as boost is no more than resistance to flow, but your EGT should fall as well. O-ringing or fire ringing is a popular thing to do. Not sure what is involved, other than head removal and send it to a machine shop to get worked on. I'd put studs in place of the bolts when you put it back on.



A better flowing manifold is in order- ATS, HTT, BD, everyone has one nowadays. 4" exhaust is good. You may need 5" if you find the need for twin turbos. I'd only go that route if you have EGT issues with the single turbo.



A cam is another option, though labor (cost) intensive if you dont do it yourself. PDR is the only one I know of who makes them for 1st Gens. Contrary to gassers, diesel cams dont make the engine lope at idle (another sign of diesel superiority)



A wastegated turbo has a bypass in the exhaust housing that allows some of the exhaust to go around the turbo inlet after a preset boost is reached, to limit the RPM the turbo spins. This is a safety device to keep the turbo from spinning into orbit. The pressure at which the wastegate opens is determined by the maps and efficiency range of the turbo, not necessarily engine HP.



You DO have a pyromter on there, right? In te manifold? Along with a transmission temp gauge? If you dont have these, to accompany your boost gauge, they are a MUST for any future upgrades.



Daniel
 
i have a pyro and a boost gauge . what kind of gasket would i need to put back on. i dont want to have issues with blown head gaskets due to higher boost
 
The OEM Cummins gasket is the gasket of choice. They are all "marine grade" now, from what I have read. You can pick the thickness you want- stock, . 010" over or . 020" over. Some custom options may be available of which I am unaware.



I think 400HP is ok with stock or near stock timing. Go too far on the advance, and you raise your cylinder pressures exponentially.



Forgot to say in the last post- LOVE that HP:Tq ratio- I'd like that torque with the lower HP.



DP
 
I'm glad I don't have those sorts of numbers on my truck... I'd want more, too! Damn addictive personalities... :p Mmmm... torrrrque... :cool:
 
DSpivey said:
well to be honest with you i have no idea how the motor achieved such hi torque readings?? any ideas?



It's not a gasoline engine for one, Not to be too big of a smart *** either ;) A lot of gasser hot rodders I know with zero diesel knowledge could hardly believe the factory rated 400ft/lbs @ 1775 rpm's, that torque rating and 160 HP do not add up to them. They're still trying to get me to ditch the 3. 07's :rolleyes: You bought yourself a decent truck with twice the power it had off the showroom floor. The trick now is to keep from breaking stuff.
 
well how come the newer 24 valves have more hp but not as much torque for exzample 325 hp 600 pounds of torque and my ole 12 is 160 hp and 400 pounds of torcue
 
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