This unit and the Company sounds like America to ME ... I'm Proud of you guy's Bill Matthes
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3G Brite Box + Fog Light Control testers wanted!
- Thread starter Joel - BAA
- Start Date
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Still waiting for mine. I hope to receive it today!
lschultz
TDR MEMBER
Well I got it on and everything works as it is suppose to. I will see how they are tonight. It took me about 2 hrs. I had a little 
on my part. Trying to get in to much of a hurry and you know what happens. Seems like the older I get the more I get on something as simple as this. :-laf Good thing there not paying me to install these.
on my part. Trying to get in to much of a hurry and you know what happens. Seems like the older I get the more I get on something as simple as this. :-laf Good thing there not paying me to install these. In response to questions regarding heat / bulb life / etc. . .
After selling / testing tens of thousands of Brite Boxes (BB), we have never had a situation where heat from a STOCK wattage bulb has caused problems. Our local Sheriff's dept. has rum them for the past 5 years them in their Durangos and has a lot of in depth documentation and testing as a result. They have found that bulb life is not sacrificed with a BB, and in fact may be greater. For instance, I had a 97 Ram (with BB since new), and never replaced a headlight bulb in it when I sold it this March - and I do my share of night driving.
I don't know how many readers are familiar with the concept of "halogen recycle" so here it is . . . Unlike sealed beams of yesteryear, halogen headlights and bulbs do not experience lens or capsule blackening. What the black substance is actually burned off filament that has been deposited on the glass. Using halogen gas in a bulb allows the burned off filament to be REDEPOSITED on the filament instead of the glass. That is why halogen bulbs last longer, burn brighter, and stay clear. The only reason why a halogen bulb burns out is that the burned off filament is never redeposited exactly where it burned off, the filament eventually get a thin spot, then burns out or breaks from vibration.
Here is out theory on why the bulbs last longer . . . With your BB on high beam, you are burning off both low and high filament. When you shut off high beams, all the filament that is in suspension with the halogen gas is suddenly redeposited on the LOW beam filament, thus building it up and maximizing the life of it. Of course, this is only our theory, but it seems to make sense. Of course the thickening of the low beam filament in this theory comes at the expense of the high beam filament, but who has ever burned out a high beam of a dual filament bulb?
Being in the light business, over the years, we have talked to a lot of people in the industry. Basically, they know that drivers HOLD the flash to pass feature on to get highs and lows together. Therefore the bulb and headlamp manufacturers have made their components tough enough to handle it - WITH a stock wattage bulb (9007 bulb stock = 55w low and 65w high). Replace the stock bulb with one that is 90w/130w and you WILL have problems. It's simple - wattage is directly proportional to heat. Stock bulb should equal no problems from our experience.
If you want to upgrade your bulb, use the Sylvania Silverstar. We have no affiliation with Sylvania, just found that these work good. Everyone here runs them. Basically stock wattage, maybe 5w more than stock on high and low, but we haven't had any problems, and neither have our dealers. You can get them at Wal Mart.
We also appreciate your kind comments on jobs here vs. shipping them out. It means a LOT to us to be able to give a paycheck to someone we know and see everyday. We also buy American. For example, the best relay for the BB is made here in the USA. We buy them by the thousands - but they are expensive. We could save something like $2. 00 per buying a Taiwanese copy. No takers here. We choose to use the USA relay in our products despite the fact that I could write myself a $30,000. 00+ raise by switching suppliers on a single part.
I'm just waiting for one of you guys to call OPRAH so she can buy one of these kits for every 3G ram owner in the USA!
:-laf
Respectfully submitted,
Joel Toy
Baker Auto Accessories
970. 879. 4200
After selling / testing tens of thousands of Brite Boxes (BB), we have never had a situation where heat from a STOCK wattage bulb has caused problems. Our local Sheriff's dept. has rum them for the past 5 years them in their Durangos and has a lot of in depth documentation and testing as a result. They have found that bulb life is not sacrificed with a BB, and in fact may be greater. For instance, I had a 97 Ram (with BB since new), and never replaced a headlight bulb in it when I sold it this March - and I do my share of night driving.
I don't know how many readers are familiar with the concept of "halogen recycle" so here it is . . . Unlike sealed beams of yesteryear, halogen headlights and bulbs do not experience lens or capsule blackening. What the black substance is actually burned off filament that has been deposited on the glass. Using halogen gas in a bulb allows the burned off filament to be REDEPOSITED on the filament instead of the glass. That is why halogen bulbs last longer, burn brighter, and stay clear. The only reason why a halogen bulb burns out is that the burned off filament is never redeposited exactly where it burned off, the filament eventually get a thin spot, then burns out or breaks from vibration.
Here is out theory on why the bulbs last longer . . . With your BB on high beam, you are burning off both low and high filament. When you shut off high beams, all the filament that is in suspension with the halogen gas is suddenly redeposited on the LOW beam filament, thus building it up and maximizing the life of it. Of course, this is only our theory, but it seems to make sense. Of course the thickening of the low beam filament in this theory comes at the expense of the high beam filament, but who has ever burned out a high beam of a dual filament bulb?
Being in the light business, over the years, we have talked to a lot of people in the industry. Basically, they know that drivers HOLD the flash to pass feature on to get highs and lows together. Therefore the bulb and headlamp manufacturers have made their components tough enough to handle it - WITH a stock wattage bulb (9007 bulb stock = 55w low and 65w high). Replace the stock bulb with one that is 90w/130w and you WILL have problems. It's simple - wattage is directly proportional to heat. Stock bulb should equal no problems from our experience.
If you want to upgrade your bulb, use the Sylvania Silverstar. We have no affiliation with Sylvania, just found that these work good. Everyone here runs them. Basically stock wattage, maybe 5w more than stock on high and low, but we haven't had any problems, and neither have our dealers. You can get them at Wal Mart.
We also appreciate your kind comments on jobs here vs. shipping them out. It means a LOT to us to be able to give a paycheck to someone we know and see everyday. We also buy American. For example, the best relay for the BB is made here in the USA. We buy them by the thousands - but they are expensive. We could save something like $2. 00 per buying a Taiwanese copy. No takers here. We choose to use the USA relay in our products despite the fact that I could write myself a $30,000. 00+ raise by switching suppliers on a single part.
I'm just waiting for one of you guys to call OPRAH so she can buy one of these kits for every 3G ram owner in the USA!
:-laf
Respectfully submitted,
Joel Toy
Baker Auto Accessories
970. 879. 4200
Well got mine today. The product is great. Nice polycase enclosures, wiring very professional. I installed mine in about 15 min and that included a trip back into the shop for a tool I left on the bench. There are two different boxes. One is for the drivers side. It controls both the driver light and the fog lights. The other box is the passenger side. It only controls the passenger light. I placed the passenger box on the bottom of my metal AFE filter scoop with the double sided tape. The driver side box was placed behind the front cross member behind the headlight also with the double sided tape. both battery connections were done on each battery. There is no needing to run wires for power across the motor compartment. I tested the system and I am excited to use them tonight in the dark. Might have to work late to ensure darkness when I leave. I will defiantly buy more for the other dodges we have here and they make great stocking stufers. :-laf
Thanks Joel,
Looks like once the test period is up, I need to order me one!
Dave
Looks like once the test period is up, I need to order me one!
Dave
poor man's BB
I'm not sure if you have tried it, Dave, but you can get fogs and high beams with DRL. I just turn the headlight switch to parking lights and pull the fogs on. Then just pull on the stalk to get high beams and fogs. To me, the DRLs aren't much dimmer than low beams. The downside is that you have to keep a finger on the stalk while driving. Kinda like a poor man's BriteBox.
DPelletier said:
I'm not sure if you have tried it, Dave, but you can get fogs and high beams with DRL. I just turn the headlight switch to parking lights and pull the fogs on. Then just pull on the stalk to get high beams and fogs. To me, the DRLs aren't much dimmer than low beams. The downside is that you have to keep a finger on the stalk while driving. Kinda like a poor man's BriteBox.
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lschultz
TDR MEMBER
I tryed it out tonight and wow I can see now. It does what they said. I live out in the country and there is always something running across the road in front of you but theres plenty of light now. On a scale of 1-10 I have to give it a 10 for now. We will see how it holds up now.
question, I notice that if I pull back on the high bean level, (like flashing someone) the high beams come on and the lows and fogs stay lite. so why couldn't you simply connect the low beam trigger wire to always stay hot, so that when the highs are pulled (which will disconnect the low if you pull the level all the way back) the lows and fogs stay lite? I am going to research the service manual and report back how to do it. I'm guessing a simple jumper from the low to feed will be all that is required. Tell me why this won't work? It works already but you have to keep steady pressure on the high beam lever to do so.
RKerner -- That's asking quite a bit out of the factory wiring and switch. Careful you don't melt something!
I got mine installed last night and love it. It's really bright. Two things though -- First, how do you adjust the headlights so they aim slightly higher? The left/right adjustment is obvious, but I want to kick mine up a degree or so and I'm not sure how.
Also, I see that the units are not 100% waterproof, but have a drain in the case that any water gets in. Sooo... I sometimes have no choice than to drive through water three feet or so deep during the spring time around here. Does anybody have any good ideas where to mount these as high as possible? Ideally, I need them higher than the bottom of the air box. Any ideas are welcome.
Thanks!
I got mine installed last night and love it. It's really bright. Two things though -- First, how do you adjust the headlights so they aim slightly higher? The left/right adjustment is obvious, but I want to kick mine up a degree or so and I'm not sure how.
Also, I see that the units are not 100% waterproof, but have a drain in the case that any water gets in. Sooo... I sometimes have no choice than to drive through water three feet or so deep during the spring time around here. Does anybody have any good ideas where to mount these as high as possible? Ideally, I need them higher than the bottom of the air box. Any ideas are welcome.
Thanks!
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why is that asking a lot of the switch? the switch is not proving power to the headlights, it is only acting as a circuit to the computer. the load is relayed and not routed through the switch.
While researching the light system in the 3G truck, we found a couple of ways to accomplish the fog + highs + low mod. In fact, we even modified the high / low selector switch mechanically on one truck and electrically on another. The big problem we saw was that with either method described above, we were running more current on a continual basis through the front control module (FCM) than the factory ever would. I seriously doubt that the factory designed the computer to handle such loads on a continual basis. It is important to note that the factory manual calls the flash to pass feature the "optical horn", and by calling it such probably never meant for it to be used for long periods of time. There have also been posts stating (in error!) that these trucks have headlight relays. Check your service manuals . . . THESE TRUCKS HAVE NO HEADLIGHT RELAYS! All headlight electrical loads in these trucks are shouldered by the computer.
Even though a FCM lists for only $148. 00, it is not the replacement cost one must consider, but rather the consequences should something in the FCM fail when in use. Imagine the consequences if it failed at the wrong time. Of course, it will fail at 75 MPH on a pitch black road according to Murphy's law.
The Brite Box (BB) unit you are now familiar with takes all the additional loads associated with the mods internally. In tester's posts, you will notice the mention that each BB has a fused connection to the vehicle's batteries, so in the event of a short or other problem, the Brite Box's fuse blows and nothing else in the truck is affected. It is also important to note that BB uses wire of a heavier gauge than stock as we felt the stock wire size is rather thin. It is also important to note that if a BB loses power, or the internal logic circuit should fail, the stock headlight voltages are fed straight through the boxes to insure your safety.
Obviously in these litigation happy times, we have to err on the side of caution. On the other hand, the individual truck owner can do whatever he wants to his truck, even if it means lawyers be damned. It's the individual's choice on whether this (or any other product) is worth the price of admission.
Respectfully Submitted,
Joel Toy
Baker Auto Accessories
970. 879. 4200
Even though a FCM lists for only $148. 00, it is not the replacement cost one must consider, but rather the consequences should something in the FCM fail when in use. Imagine the consequences if it failed at the wrong time. Of course, it will fail at 75 MPH on a pitch black road according to Murphy's law.
The Brite Box (BB) unit you are now familiar with takes all the additional loads associated with the mods internally. In tester's posts, you will notice the mention that each BB has a fused connection to the vehicle's batteries, so in the event of a short or other problem, the Brite Box's fuse blows and nothing else in the truck is affected. It is also important to note that BB uses wire of a heavier gauge than stock as we felt the stock wire size is rather thin. It is also important to note that if a BB loses power, or the internal logic circuit should fail, the stock headlight voltages are fed straight through the boxes to insure your safety.
Obviously in these litigation happy times, we have to err on the side of caution. On the other hand, the individual truck owner can do whatever he wants to his truck, even if it means lawyers be damned. It's the individual's choice on whether this (or any other product) is worth the price of admission.
Respectfully Submitted,
Joel Toy
Baker Auto Accessories
970. 879. 4200
Matt,
FYI - Larry Schultz has a new deluxe model that also controls his fogs.
First ship date for product is 10/4/04. My best guess for a "street price for the kit is $220. 00 - $230. 00.
Regards,
Joel Toy
Baker Auto Accessories
97. 879. 4200
FYI - Larry Schultz has a new deluxe model that also controls his fogs.
First ship date for product is 10/4/04. My best guess for a "street price for the kit is $220. 00 - $230. 00.
Regards,
Joel Toy
Baker Auto Accessories
97. 879. 4200
Kirwin
TDR MEMBER
Got mine yesterday
Installed it in about 1. 5 hours today. That 10mm bolt in the back can best be accessed by inserting the socket (1/4" drive) from under the fender well then working it around to the front. That way you don't risk scratching that filler piece directly under the headlight as the clearence here is much less to try to insert the socket into. I also recommend that you be carefull as there are some sharp edges (at least on my truck) on the bottom of the headlight assembly that may try to scratch this same filler piece as you pull it out of its hole. Lift up on the light and sort of roll it out in an upward direction. Works as Joel said it does. Put in the Silverstar lamps in both the headlights and fog lights. Now I got to wait for darkness!
Installed it in about 1. 5 hours today. That 10mm bolt in the back can best be accessed by inserting the socket (1/4" drive) from under the fender well then working it around to the front. That way you don't risk scratching that filler piece directly under the headlight as the clearence here is much less to try to insert the socket into. I also recommend that you be carefull as there are some sharp edges (at least on my truck) on the bottom of the headlight assembly that may try to scratch this same filler piece as you pull it out of its hole. Lift up on the light and sort of roll it out in an upward direction. Works as Joel said it does. Put in the Silverstar lamps in both the headlights and fog lights. Now I got to wait for darkness!
Installed my kit last night in a 2004. 5 2500. Took less then an hour and works great.
Nice to have more light when you need it on the road with out firing up the KC daylighters. Kirwin- Did you like the bulbs? I heard those are the ones you want. My buddy tried some others and wasn't impressed- returned them. Let us know what you think. Install of bright box is fast, clean and simple. 2004. 5 uses a bigger box on the driver side which runs the fogs too. Put a towel over the lower bumper area so you don't scratch it up removing the head light assembly. If you drive at night out in the sticks this is a must have unit. I drive 15 miles of two lane through the woods to get to and from every day, ussually whiles its dark. Great to light up the woods at spot the deer waiting to cross. Thanks Joel.
Nice to have more light when you need it on the road with out firing up the KC daylighters. Kirwin- Did you like the bulbs? I heard those are the ones you want. My buddy tried some others and wasn't impressed- returned them. Let us know what you think. Install of bright box is fast, clean and simple. 2004. 5 uses a bigger box on the driver side which runs the fogs too. Put a towel over the lower bumper area so you don't scratch it up removing the head light assembly. If you drive at night out in the sticks this is a must have unit. I drive 15 miles of two lane through the woods to get to and from every day, ussually whiles its dark. Great to light up the woods at spot the deer waiting to cross. Thanks Joel.
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Issue 128 – Digital Version
Digital Magazines
FREE!
TDR Test Drive - Digital Edition
Renew
Subscribe
Gift Subscriptions
Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Perfect Collection
The Perfect Collection Vol. II
TSB Updates
Dodge/Cummins Historical Overview
Cameron Collection
What Makes Us Tick?
Product Showcase
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