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3G factory fogs on steroids - a cheap BOMB!

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What guages to install?

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Got'em installed

Here is a pic of the left side with the Fogzilla and Sylvania SilverStar 9005's It was hard to get the picture to reflect how different the two sides are. There is a HUGE difference in person. I just drove over to my father inlaws and looked at it next to his (04 CTD) and his looked yellow and dull. To think I thought the foglights where good before :rolleyes: The Fogzilla snapped right into the stock harness and right into the 9005's. Sweet BOMB Joel. . Thanks



Once again this pic was taken with my phone so the quality isn't so good:(
 
Crunch said:
If the lamps are 12V lamps, that means the draw on the circuit is just over 9 amps with the stock 9006 lamps, but almost 11 amps with the 9005 lamps.
Are you sure about that?

Using this calculator with 12v and 55/65 watts it only calculates 4. 5 amps on the 55w and 5. 4 amps on the 65w which sounds more realistic and no problem at all for the factory wiring.
 
Checker, Chuck's and Kragen Auto Parts have a $10. 00 per pair rebate going if you buy on or before 01/29/05



The form is here





The stores have one that goes through 01/29/05
 
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cardomain.com has several brands of bulbs at good prices. Since the factory uses 18 gauge wire for both types of bulbs, the fog lamp harness should be fine with 65 watt 9005's.
 
I just realized you could use both the above rebates because one is at the store level and the other is with Sylvania so if you do the 9007ST and 9005ST its worth 30. 00 back.



edit Oops... maybe not, looks like you have to include the UPC on the package for each one. :(
 
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Matt400 said:
Are you sure about that?

Using this calculator with 12v and 55/65 watts it only calculates 4. 5 amps on the 55w and 5. 4 amps on the 65w which sounds more realistic and no problem at all for the factory wiring.



The numbers are correct, but there are two lamps. The total draw on the circuit is the sum of the two lamps, plus whatever else is wired in to the same circuit.
 
Crunch said:
The total draw on the circuit is the sum of the two lamps, plus whatever else is wired in to the same circuit.
True, I hadn't realized you were adding up the lamps. Ea. lamp has its own harness though and the wire ga is plenty big.



I took a look at the wire diagram and see the weak point in the circuit is the 15 amp fuse that protects the circuit.



There is a single 16 ga. wire from the fog lamp relay to the fog harness. Before it splits that single lead should be good for 20 amps so it still looks ok to me.



Fuse #41 is the 15 amp fuse that protects the fog relay and wiring, even if you were to blow that fuse the circuit looks engineered for a 20 amp fuse.
 
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Matt400 said:
Fuse #41 is the 15 amp fuse that protects the fog relay and wiring, even if you were to blow that fuse the circuit looks engineered for a 20 amp fuse.



If the load calculations are the same as house wiring, you can load each circuit to 80% capacity. For a 20 amp circuit that's 16 amps, which puts it high enough above the lamp draw provided there is nothing else wired into the circuit. If the circuit is rated to 15 amps, however, the max load should be 12 amps, which is cutting it close. When I was a kid my dad warned me about using those 1,000,000 candle power spotlights that you plug into the cig lighter for the same reason, and I guess that stuck with me.
 
Blakers said:
Please clarify this. Does this mean if we buy the regular Bright Box that you will throw in the fog light kit? How long is this offer good for and where do we have to order to receive the deal?



Thanks,



Blake



Does anyone know the answer to this? Oclv never responded to his pm.



Thanks.
 
Blakers said:
Does anyone know the answer to this?



  • To order you need to call: 970. 879. 4200
  • When ordering you should mention this thread and ask for the 9005 cable adapters at N/C
  • Bulbs are not included.
 
Okey0 said:
use a rotary cutting tool. the two tabs need to come off, once done, factory harness will slip right in.
Hrmm, well thats pretty neat. Looks like a better way to go than using the adapter. I haven't done mine yet so will check that out- Thanks.
 
In regards to grinding the tabs off the 9005 bulbs where the electrical connector goes in . . . No doubt an effective solution. However, you cannot easily modify a 9005 in this way on the road without a dremel tool. The adaptor harnesses allow you to change bulbs without the need for major mods to the 9005 bulbs.



You may ask - You need a dremel tool to trim the mounting tab of the 9005's, so aren't you in the same boat? Not necessarily as many customers have told me that they trimmed the mounting tab with a set of wire cutters or other tool (didn't have dremels). One guy even used a nail clipper and he said the trimmed tabs were as clean as those in the pictures on our site! We have since done some experiments and you can get a clean trim with a set of wire cutters.



Of course, you could buy an extra set of bulbs, grind them, and then keep them in your truck and never have to consider the above. I just think that the harnesses are a better solution, but that's only my . 02 cents. I'm sure that there will be truck owners that prefer one method over the other for no other reason than personal preference.



Repectfully submitted,



Joel Toy

Baker Auto Accessories

970. 879. 4200
 
This is great



went to Wal-mart to get some superstars 9005's and they didn't carry them (9005's) had all the other ones 03's 04's 06's etc. They did have one 9005 in a GE std bulb ($7. 35) so I thought what the heck 7. 35 is a cheap experiment. Took me all of one minute to modify the bulb with my dremel and wala! Major difference in the light put out by the 9005. My question is this... . are you guys using the expensive "superstars" or just replacement bulbs? Where can you get the Superstars for less than $48 per pair (Kragen)



Thanks



DD
 
Brite Box

I'm assuming that I can simulate a brite box by pulling the high beam stalk just back far enough to engage the high beams without fully "clicking" the switch? Is this true?



If that is the case, I agree there is a whole bunch of light thrown fairly close in front of the truck but the high beam reach STILL sucks.



Dan
 
Another Fogzilla option

I couldn't wait to try this mod and had some free time Saturday to mess around. This is what I came up with:



Purchase 9005 plugs with pigtails 5. 00 bucks each



Unplug fog lights.



Remove blue clip on fog light plug



Using small nail (I ground finishing nail to just the right size) release the clip that holds the wire in the plug and pull wire from plug.



The clip is accessed form the front of the plug If you stair at it a minute it will make sense.



Repeat for other wire



Do the same thing to you new 9005 plug



Insert factory wires into new plug and your done



Total time for harness conversion 15 minutes 10 of that was spent looking for the right nail.



Is it worth the 13 bucks you save? probably not. I had a hard time finding the plugs and I had to use Butle O rings.
 
Diesel Dan said:
This is great



My question is this... . are you guys using the expensive "superstars" or just replacement bulbs? Where can you get the Superstars for less than $48 per pair (Kragen)

Thanks

DD



personally, i don't see much difference between stock and SILVERstars. I just swapped out the passenger side stock light for a silverstar, and really can't tell the difference between the new silverstar and the stock bulb that i left in the drivers side.
 
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