48RE shift kit = Hard reverse

[g_dog1]

Hi guys.

A while back I installed the "Superior Shift Kit" into the valve body, and I installed a billet intermediate band servo and servo cover. Basically, I installed what I could without removing the transmission. Ever since installing that shift kit, I had a couple glitches that I didn't like (sometimes skip 2nd gear, and slams into reverse). Because of these glitches, I decided to pull out the built valve body, and just install a stock "rebuilt" valve body. Even with the rebuilt Stock valve body, when I shift the truck from Drive to Reverse, it hits very hard. My only solution is to shift in Nuetral, wait close to 4 seconds, then shift to reverse. I always shift while at a complete stop. I have looked at the hydraulics diagrams, and don't know what I am missing. Is it possible that a the first shift kit cause some sort of seal to blow out? on a clutch pack?...Or maybe my billet accumulator piston is holding some energy that takes time to disipate?

Any help would be greatly apreciated

 

[JLandry]

Is the transmission engagement also harsh when going from Park to Drive?

John L.

 

[DonFitzwater]

How are you adjusting your bands?

 

[g_dog1]

The transmission doesn't engage drive harsh, and it doesn't engage Manual 1st harsh. Only going from drive to R is harsh. There is also very little delay time when going from Drive to Reverse. It happens very suddenly.
The bands were adjusted to spec. 72 in-lbs -1.75 turns (outer band) and 72 in-lbs -3 turns. If my memory isn't correct on this, it is because I don't have the adjustment sheet infront of me like I had when I was doing the band adjustment. The fluid is the correct fluid.
I am at a loss as to what could be causing this D to R slamming. I know in reverse vs Drive, the line pressure is way up.

Regards

Glenn

 

[g_dog1]

What would be a typical symptom of the Loose Reverse band? Would that cause the slamming in reverse?

 

[g_dog1]

Any takers to help me solve this issue? What would a typical symptom of a worn out reverse band be? Basically, I'm thinking that something de-energizes in Neutral that allows me to put the truck in Reverse, without the slamming clunk. Could it be the DNJ Pressure Governor block? or maybe there is some kind of mistake in the ATSG manual with regards to rebuilding the valvebody, and I and some other company both missed a critical location of a check ball.

Regards

Glenn Nixon

 

[g_dog1]

what about an intermediate band servo and cover, that could be leaking or sticking?

 

[Regcabguy]

I was taught by my DTT rebuilder to always hesitate in neutral for a second before heading to reverse. Lots of line pressure to deal with on a straight shot. it helped some.

 

[cerberusiam]

If there is wear in the transmission it is going tobang goping from drive to rteverse because it slapping a lot of pressure quickly into the bands an clutches and reversing the power flow. You go from all the slack taken out 1 way to all the slack taken out the other and it is going to be load. If all the clearances are on the tight side and ther eis no wear in the shafts and splines it is better but it stil is very noticeable into reverse from drive. Hesistate in neutral for a couple seconds is about all you can do without tearing the trans apart.

 

[g_dog1]

Thanks for the help guys. Pausing in neutral has certainly helped to stop the slamming. The bands are torqued and adjusted to spec, so.. I guess the clutch packs are most worn?

In all honestly, how difficult is it to pull the trans, to replace clutch packs, and bands. Is it cost beneficial to just buy a $2500 rebuilt trans? Everyone wants the core.