4BTA final adjustment

[driverswanted]

Good question. Sounds like a split screen maybe. Sounds complicated right now. I don't know if you can run two softwares at once on the PDA like that. Oh and I want one from Santa too. I saw Dell's unit, Iguidence with a GPS attached. Sweet!

 

[driverswanted]

Grid Heater circuit

The grid heater citcuit is in place now. Tested it with outside temp at 28F.

At this point it's set up to take a reading of the thermister at power-up of the circuit. It then looks up the time/temp. chart in the program for how long the pre-heat should last. When the engine is started, a post-heat cycle begins. The duration of the total cyclic time after engine start is from a user programable multiplier (post factor or PF) of the pre-heat cycle. I can change both the time per cycle,the total cyclic duration, number of grids turned on at each temperature range and several other variables. I can access and change these by plugging in a PDA with a serial communications port. At this time I'm trying a PF of 8 or 8 times the pre-heat duration. Yesterday that equaled 72 seconds of grid heat run time. If I need more post start heat time I can cycle the power switch to the circuit. This takes a new reading of the thermister and runs another post-start cycle based on the new thermister reading. I tested this while running down the road and saw the cycle times getting shorter as the thermister warmed up from normal engine warmup heat. I believe the OEM grid heater circuit constantly looked at the thermister and change the cycle time to match the lookup table. We may rework the circuit to do this later.

Including two photos of the circuit; one view with PDA and the other of LED and switch side view. The LEDs at left are circuit test LEDs that flash out the vehicle battery voltage reading and confirmation of grid element continuity. The toggle switch is the circuit power. The right two LEDs come on when power is applied to each grid. Yesterday these alternately lit up for each grid since the temperature was too warm for both to be on at once.

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

Andre,

I noticed your not using the Harden thermostat as the load carrying device in this circuit. This should make the thermostat last a long time. Are these Haydens failing internally in the filled bulb area or fatigue of the capillary tube?

Got my temperature up higher with the front of the radiator covered somewhat. Still don't like doing it this way. I'm going to call Cummins to see if there are other temperature ranged T-stats. I'm also moving one of my extra system monitor temperature sensors into the engine oil to see what temps that goes up to compared to the coolant.

The electronic grid control circuit is almost done. Does anyone know what the grid "outside temperature" vs. on-state period is after the pre-heat period? I've lost my Dodge factory manual that covers this. I seemed to recall that the was a on-state change at 59F to 32F, 32F to 0F and 0F and below.

Sorry it took me so long to reply to this! I actually just sold the truck and am building a new, but nearly identical one, mostly to get a better body. But while I am there I am also doing some other neat things (coil sprung chassis & axles, NV5600, Dana 300) versus my previous setup. It actually did last and is still owrking fine. I specifically went around the load carrying part of it because the adjustable thermostat is in fact a total POS. I would greatly like to rewire using this same setup again but if I could find a better setup. Otherwise I honestly think a prewired flexalite setup might actually be a better ticket. But I can't remember if it has all the features or not. . The illuminated switches was nice but at night when wanting to run extra powerful, the switch was annoying. If I could find a less annoying switch that might be a better ticket. . Anyway. . I look forward to reading on your heater grid option. . Andre

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

Holy cow Drivers watned! Nice work there. Also I learned something. The 4BTA air-air intercooled models have the same base plate pattern as the 6BTs, so use that instead of the 6BTs for use with the heater grid. I was thinking I would do a momentary switch for mornings I needed the heater grid. Think this is too chincy? Andre

The grid heater citcuit is in place now. Tested it with outside temp at 28F.

At this point it's set up to take a reading of the thermister at power-up of the circuit. It then looks up the time/temp. chart in the program for how long the pre-heat should last. When the engine is started, a post-heat cycle begins. The duration of the total cyclic time after engine start is from a user programable multiplier (post factor or PF) of the pre-heat cycle. I can change both the time per cycle,the total cyclic duration, number of grids turned on at each temperature range and several other variables. I can access and change these by plugging in a PDA with a serial communications port. At this time I'm trying a PF of 8 or 8 times the pre-heat duration. Yesterday that equaled 72 seconds of grid heat run time. If I need more post start heat time I can cycle the power switch to the circuit. This takes a new reading of the thermister and runs another post-start cycle based on the new thermister reading. I tested this while running down the road and saw the cycle times getting shorter as the thermister warmed up from normal engine warmup heat. I believe the OEM grid heater circuit constantly looked at the thermister and change the cycle time to match the lookup table. We may rework the circuit to do this later.

Including two photos of the circuit; one view with PDA and the other of LED and switch side view. The LEDs at left are circuit test LEDs that flash out the vehicle battery voltage reading and confirmation of grid element continuity. The toggle switch is the circuit power. The right two LEDs come on when power is applied to each grid. Yesterday these alternately lit up for each grid since the temperature was too warm for both to be on at once.

 

[driverswanted]

No. Not at all chincy. That will work great. I was thinking of that too but my brother loves to make circuits like this. Maybe the switch on the left side of the steering wheel so your right hand is free for the starter key. Just hold the grid in for several seconds before starting and several seconds after on cold days. I remember when I had the circuit turned off that the truck acceleration was somwhat more sluggish without the grid heat.

I did not know about the 4BT grid. My loss your gain. I had to lop off two of the sections of my intake plate and make a gasket flange at the cut end with JB weld. Plus some minor milling work and I was good to go.

BTW been running mine for 1 1/2 years now with no problems. Still not getting 30 mpg but I felt it was time to move on the other projects like dropping my 2001 Tdi Jetta engine into another (non-wrecked) Jetta.