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6.7 exhaust manifold re-torque?

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Parts needed to make 6.7 good to go?

My Truck In Limp Mode?

I've got a new BD two piece exhaust manifold to replace my warped and shrunken stock unit. Old stuff is all stripped down and ready to start the install. The BD installation instructions say to re-torque the manifold bolts/nuts after at least one heat cycle. But seriously? That would mean stripping it all down again with the amount of crap in the way on this engine. Would have to take apart the whole EGR system again to get the lock plates back off cylinder 5 and 6, not to mention drain the coolant and take apart the heater tubes in the way, as well as the heat shield and possibly EGR cooler mount. Does anybody actually do all this to re-torque? Would also need to replace EGR gaskets taking it all apart again, seems implausible to re-torque after heat cycling on this truck.

I'm thinking of just putting copper anti-seize on the studs and bolts, torqueing to spec in a circular pattern, going over it twice, then re-assembling and calling it good. Presumably that's what the lock plates are for anyway, to prevent the rear bolts from loosening during heat cycles since it's impractical to re-check them. Seems like the heat shield acts as a 'locker' for cylinder 1 and 2 as well. I haven't read of #3 and #4 coming loose as a normal problem.

The factory manual makes no mention of re-torqueing the exhaust manifold bolts after heat cycling. I'm wondering if this is just a thing you might do if you had a full EGR delete, but then you'd still have the heat shield and coolant pipes to deal with for access.

What's your experience with this?
 
How did your installation go? I am also considering a manifold swap for a BD two piece manifold. My 09 2500 (not deleted) has developped an exhaust leak after 75,000 miles. Taking apart the egr system to get at the manifold is a pita!
 
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