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3rd Generation 6.7L Engine and Transmission FAQ's

Oil Analysis Comparison

The connection at the EGR acuator motor (if your looking at your intake manifold, top right side of the EGR there is a brown connection).



The only thing it will do is throw CEL on the cluster (P0405 is what's tripped). If you plug it in and after 5 cold start cycles. The light will go out, but will store a soft code if the dealer tech plugs in. The tech may think the EGR needs replacement.



It's just another alternative for a guy who seeking a little better mileage, less regens/sooting w/o doing full deletes. Personaly my truck stock wise was doing fine, but was curious w/ unplugging the EGR and results was good. It's not for everyone that is worried about warranty or such.



I know the 07. 5 and 08's needed a later flash (or J-35 the latest) for the Butterfly valve flapper (in the intake manifold) command to stay open by default when unplugged.



Your Smarty S-67 basically is doing the samething w/ commanding the EGR at 0% w/o a CEL light tripping.



*********************************************************



This will be lengthy. .



My dealer has been very kind to me and my truck. With his knowledge in trying to find out what might be an issue with my truck related to mileage and re-gens this is what I have done over the last 2 months... .



I had a muffler company remove my DPF and cat. The cat/downpipe has been removed for 2 months. The only thing left in my pipe is an Aero 5050. As soon as I left the muffler shop I installed Smarty ME. We hooked to our 17,000# RV and towed into the NC mountains. Pulled Old Fort mountain and the truck did fine except we noticed large amounts of smoke only at about 35-45 mph even when not in a pull. The rear quarter panel smoked up plum black. After driving extensively in the NC mtns. the smoke did not go away even after several Smarty tune changes. I consulted with Marco's group and Jim W. on this site and even spoke to him on the phone.



When I disconnected the wireing plug from the EGR actuator and drove the truck I still got large amounts of smoke which I think would seem to clog the DPF and cause more re-gens under normal conditions.



Later I took out the EGR actuator plunger and re-connected the actuator and wireing. I then unplugged the throttle gizmo on the left side and disconnected the wireing plug on the back/bottom side of the EGR actuator motor per Smarty's instructions. BINGO



I now have no puffs of black smoke and very very little smoke while driving.

*********************************************************



This is my results:



My EGTs are 300 degrees lower under all conditions

My engine temps seem to be the same

My overhead is for sure running 2-5 numbers higher.

My towing MPG is for sure up 2-3mpg while mtn. towing.



I have now discussed these results with my dealer/tech and they agree that the re-gen issues I was having is normal and I have no issues with the injectors or EGR system. I plan to reinstall my DPF/CAT and re-plug in all my EGR system as soon as I can get ordered the 2 temp sensors I destroyed.



For you guys who have only unplugged your EGR actuator motor, you are putting more smoke into your exhaust.
 
Cumminz



The Smarty requires you to keep the EGR connected (w/o the plunger) for thier programming. That is how Marco tuned the Smarty w/ the trucks. As you found out, once you plugged the EGR back in (minus the plunger) the smoke went away along w/ the Smarty commanding the EGR to 0%. Also having the Throttle Body Valve unhooked, or else you would've had the smokey problem you had.



Essentially unplugging the EGR w/ a stock truck is doing the samething (except some soot still gets by). My regens have been less than plugged in. I'm not pumping soot back through a second time. My friend has a Smarty Jr set on the stock SW, and not even a haze comes out. These 6. 7 are clean deleted on stock setting.



On the flip side, H&S has thier programming by having the EGR unplugged rather than just taking the plunger out and hooking the EGR back up like the Smarty.



If your (4) four results is a positive (stated at the bottom of your post), then why are you going back to stock? Just curious, unless I read your post wrong.
 
Several years of data should be a good indicator but did usage split between highway and city miles remain exactly the same . . . and towing/not towing?



Harvey, No they did not. In the year that I reported higher fuel mileage after I installed the Smarty. I used the truck to pull the camper more, about 1,000 miles more. My Highway driving with out the camper, city/country and winter driving did remain close with in 100 to 200 miles of each other year.

In my spread sheet I make comments as to what type of driving condition the truck is being used in.

Jim W.
 
I guess you are on to something then. You have often spoken about keeping detailed records so I would not doubt your claims of improved mileage if usage is similar.

My truck has a little over 100k miles on it now and I am free to do whatever I want to it but it has been trouble free to this point. I don't really see any reason to do anything. It is currently burning zero gallons of diesel fuel parked in my barn.

IIRC, I drove it once to take my dogs to the vet in April and once to go to Lubbock in May. On June 3oth I will use it to move a light fifth wheel jobsite trailer for my son-in-law and another jobsite trailer on July 7th.

The rest of the time I ride my Goldwing which gets around 40 to 42 mpg on regular gas.
 
Trying to pull an oil sample on my 08 6. 7 cummins, the sample pick-up tube will not go all the way down dipstick tube. Any idea's without draining from bottom of pan?
 
New here 6.7 2007.5 codes 2121& 2122 check engine lite sparky lighting bolt come on. Can I reset Ecm or pps by disconnecting battery's waiting reconnect and slowly push and release fuel pedal and start truck. Does anyone live around Phx az need help or any decent shops in az. Nothing on u tube about 6.7 resets. thx Jerry
 
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