Here I am

6 Spd. U Joint part numbers....

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Fuel Line Failure

Valve adjustment on an 04, same as 2nd gen 24V?

Status
Not open for further replies.
I just ordered some 351s from Rock Auto (wow, what a great place). I guess now I have an excuse to invest in a bench grinder. :rolleyes:



-Ryan
 
Ball joints

Does Rock Auto also have ball joints? Just got back from the dealer (highly recommend on going to Cunningham Dodge in Edinboro, Pa) and the ball joints are not covered by the 7/70. Hard to believe! I might as well do it all myself.



Any part number for ball joints out there?



Thanks.
 
Blakers said:
Does Rock Auto also have ball joints? Just got back from the dealer (highly recommend on going to Cunningham Dodge in Edinboro, Pa) and the ball joints are not covered by the 7/70. Hard to believe! I might as well do it all myself.



Any part number for ball joints out there?



Thanks.

As far as I know there are aftermarket (Spicer?) upper ball joints available, but not lowers. The ones that are available are the same design as the OEM units (not greaseable). Many of us are waiting around for someone to come out with greaseable ones (Moog, are you listening?). If you must replace them now, I'd probably order the upper aftermarket ones and get the lowers from the dealer.



-Ryan
 
My upper ones are the ones that are bad. I'd live with them for awhile until more aftermarkets come out, but we have stupid inspection here in in Pa and they won't pass that. If I still lived in Ohio, I could run it for years like that.
 
Nick,

Then how do you put a new one in? Why isn't it just a normal joint arrangement? I like things simple... this doesn't look simple.

Thanks,

Mickey



if indeed they are the type i am thinking about, you just slide the new one in as a normal u-joint and then snap in the C clips into the caps.



i know gm used that plastic injected retaining ring in their pickups. it is for quick factory assembly, as the drive shaft will have everything applied to it before being installed at factory. some other factory will assemble the u-joints into the driveshaft, and will just line up the groove in the cap and in the yoke, and inject molten plastic in there to hold it together very well when it hardens.
 
i know i should know but what do people mean by 351's and 464's when I go to rock auto and type in 04 dodge 3500 I do not see what ya all are talking about please help and or put a link in Thanks again,
 
MickeyMiller said:
Nick,

Then how do you put a new one in? Why isn't it just a normal joint arrangement? I like things simple... this doesn't look simple.

Thanks,

Mickey



The new one should go in with clips... from the factory, the injection process is quicker and therefore cheaper (and I believe it is an automated process).



But, he is correct, heat them up some (doesn't need to be that hot even, just enough to soften the plastic) and press them right out.



steved
 
Don't drill down by your truck make/model/year, do a search on 351 or 464 instead. That will take you right to Precision parts.



-Ryan
 
Well, I did a search on my truck at Napa... for a two piece driveshaft they call for a #295 and a #330. The 351s are for a 3 piece driveshaft, unless anyone can say for sure.



I got ujoint problems... both driveshaft and axleshaft... need joints soon!



steved
 
Speaking of balljoints and u-joints and the such. I went to change the front axle u-joints and became stuck when I went to get the rotor off. Am i doing something wrong here? The rotor just slides over the studs correct? I beat the thing with my trusty B. F. H. to no avail. So I just grabbed the posi lock puller and pulled the hub assembly off with the rotor still attached. How do I get the rotor free without damaging it?
 
BGarofalo said:
Speaking of balljoints and u-joints and the such. I went to change the front axle u-joints and became stuck when I went to get the rotor off. Am i doing something wrong here? The rotor just slides over the studs correct? I beat the thing with my trusty B. F. H. to no avail. So I just grabbed the posi lock puller and pulled the hub assembly off with the rotor still attached. How do I get the rotor free without damaging it?



It depends on the year... IIRC, the pre-2000s where pressed on using the studs... the 2001 and later are slip over the stud (held on by a little lock washer).



steved
 
Using Justin's research I now have all greaseable joints on my truck as of last week! Every stock u-joint except for a couple on the rear driveshaft were grease free and metal dust. Installation also involved no grinding of parts for fit. I also changed both wheel unit hubs while I was in that far and managed to not mangle them in the process. The passenger side hub was still free spinning, but the driver side hub was kind of grabby when spun while sitting on the bench. I'll just keep both now as emergency spares.
 
steved said:
Well, I did a search on my truck at Napa... for a two piece driveshaft they call for a #295 and a #330. The 351s are for a 3 piece driveshaft, unless anyone can say for sure.



I got ujoint problems... both driveshaft and axleshaft... need joints soon!



steved



Napa has their numbers wrong. The 351 joints are for 6 speeds with one piece drive shafts too.



Blake
 
jwilliams3 said:
Front Axle U joints LEFT AND RIGHT (takes 2) #464



Has anyone actually installed a 464 in their front axle? Just checking cause I ordered one from Rock Auto and the inside corners of the joint don't look like they go in quite as far as the original joint. I'm betting it will work, but don't want to be stuck with a truck apart and not have a joint.



Thanks guys!
 
Blakers said:
Has anyone actually installed a 464 in their front axle? Just checking cause I ordered one from Rock Auto and the inside corners of the joint don't look like they go in quite as far as the original joint. I'm betting it will work, but don't want to be stuck with a truck apart and not have a joint.



Thanks guys!



Yes! fit no problem - no grinding required!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top