92' charging problems.... probably a lose wire..

[Headshot zod]

92' charging problems.... probably a loose wire..

Ok I am not charging, I can charge my battery on a charger and it holds and I can drive it for a day. Technically I have a hydrid diesel/electric lol. I did some searching here. Most of the problems are early 1st gens.



I have the manual on CD, which doesn't work under WinXP unless you do everything manually.



I am correct in stating that a 92 does not have one of those obvious voltage regulators that I used to be so fond of?



I am pretty sure its a loose wire and since there is some non-stock wiring in here, what would be the easiest way to hot wire this thing so at least I can drive. I might be going to Tennessese soon and this thing needs to be rock solid. I am just a little lost on where to begin.



The computer code I think was 4-1 which doesn't really help if its a loose wire.



any ideas??

 

[ARedetzke]

Check your engine speed sensor (Crank position sensor?). It is located on top of the harmonic balancer on the front of the motor. If it is unplugged, your alternator won't charge. I forgot to plug mine back in after I did my KDP, and freaked out, until I figured out what happened. It plugs in at pretty much the top front center of the motor, just in front of the valve cover. Check to make sure you're getting a good connection. I know that on the second gens, it will also kill the tach and A/C. Don't know if it effects that on our trucks too.

AJ

 

[Headshot zod]

thanks... I'lll run out now and check...



well, I checked it back most of the length up until the injection pump. All is well, but most be something else.

 

[dpuckett]

I am not so sure the tach pickup has much to do with whether the alternator charges or not- Mom's had about 1/4" clearance, and was still charging just fine. I found that out when I hooked up a tach, and got no reading. I know what the book says, and am not suggesting it ISNT the problem, just dont panic over it.



Headshot zod- Is it a steady state of no charge, or does the gauge jump all over the place? If the gauge is a bit twitchy, it could be the ECM (or more correctly, the volt regulator IN the ECM) , which is bypassable, if you can live with a check engine light. If it is steady, it is most likely a loose wire, SOMEWHERE Good luck in your quest.



Daniel

 

[Headshot zod]

no state of charge... ...



And the thing is a "Check Engine Light" is an automatic failure and I need to go to inspection before I start getting those $125. 00 tickets for not inspecting. So I might just pull the light out of the dashboard.



Since I have an old style regulator is it possible to hotwire it that way?





UGH, I think I'll be going through everywire in there... . somehow I knew that. .

 

[Paychk]

41 = alternator field not switching properly



Have you had it tested at a parts store? The ASD relay (front one near drivers hood hinge) is part of the alternator control, you could swap positions with one of the other relays and see if it goes away.

 

[dpuckett]

Taking the bulb out of the dash aint that hard to do. DOne it myself, a time or two. No check engine or ABS light.



-DP

 

[Headshot zod]

thanks -dp I figured it wouldn't be that hard. Quite frankly I don't know why we have dashboards or rearview mirrors... ... ... .



Paychk. I am completely new to automotive relays as this is the newest vehicle I have owned. I'll try swapping them out in the AM



I went back and ran the fault codes since I can't search the cd could you please check these if you (or anyone) have time.



1-2

4-1

3-4

5-5

 

[paccool]

41 code is " Generator Field Not Switching Properly"



34 code is "Speed Control Solenoid Circuts" - an open or shorted condition detected in the speed control vacuum or vent solenoid circuts.



55 code is "End of Codes"



Didn't see the other code, will look a little further.

 

[Paychk]

12 = Battery or power line recently disconnected - This code is normal if the electrical system has been worked on or the battery has recently been disconnected. It will be removed after 15 ignition switch on/off cycles.

 

[paccool]

Its good to know what that 12 means! That can help save some trouble shooting time! Thanks for that bit of info.

Stan

 

[Paychk]

No problem

 

[Headshot zod]

Well, it turned out to be the alternator. Amazing how many problems can manifest themselves at the same time.....



Anyway to clear the problem codes?

 

[Paychk]

Disconnect the battery for 5 minutes will erase them I believe, good to hear it is fixed!

 

[RGuzzo]

check the y splice on the left front fender at about 12 oclock there is a #22WHITE resistor wire spliced to 2#12 RED WIRES this is a notorious corrosion spot It might look good and still be bad use a good meter and move them around while holding the meter on it. It took me 3 days with the wiring diagrams to figure this one out

 

[Diesel Man]

Here's what I found (I'll keep it short). On a long trip my truck stopped charging. Same problem you are experiencing. After much trouble shooting, it turned out to be the Voltage Reg had blown and was not allowing any charge to get through.

I replaced it , fully charged the battery and it was fine after that.

HOWEVER, it went out again a few months later. Noticing that the Volt Reg was mounted on the firewall just above the hot exhaust pipe, I suspected too much heat was causing premature failure. I extended the wiring harness and mounted a new regulater on the inner fender, AWAY from the heat source. That was 6 years ago and I haven't had a problem since.

Hope this helps-hey it's a lot cheaper fix than a new alt