2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 97 or 98 light switch - pull knob or turn knob 98 12v

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Howdy, I am suspicious that I'm trying to work on stranding myself on a mountain road at night without headlights, or perhaps torching my truck. Lately, I've had a very disconcerting odor that I think may be coming from my light switch intending to self-immolate. When the lights have been on for a while, I think the switch feels warmer than it should.



Yesterday, I pulled the switch out of the dash and turned on the lights. The wires seem to get warm, but not melting hot... yet.



I also noticed the switch had been replaced previously with the wires cut a new plug end spliced in. On a lark, I thought I'd check out prices on ebay. I noticed there seemed to be a discrepancy, but not entirely clear. My truck has a pull switch for the lights... . but there is switches with the turn knob and separate cluster wheel listed for 1998-2002. It looks like the twist/wheel would fit easily enough. Surfing TDR shows light switch heating problems with 94-97 3500 trucks.



So, Does my truck have the wrong switch? What switch should be in a 1998 12v???
 
I can't answer your question, but offer a tip. While you have the facia off drill some holes in the top of the vent duct that is under the switch. There is no air circulation there so the switch heats up.
 
My build date was also November, 97. Thanks, for the reply. At least I know it has the OEM type switch.



Now, I have to wonder if it would be possible to change switches to the newer style if I spliced the new style plug pigtail???
 
I have a 98 that needs the switch change now. (lights flickering and the odor). It has the pull type switch. I have had problems with the light switch on every Dodge pickup that I have had. I have been told that the trailer lights that I have is the problem. If you do change to newer style let us know how it goes.

I like GAmes tip. It would be easy to do.
 
The trailer lights are powered by a relay separate from the trucks lights. It is triggered by the light switch, but then again it is also triggered when there is no trailer hooked up so the power draw is the same. I replaced all my lights except for the front turn and the headlights with LEDs. Made a heck of a difference in the heat of the switch. The biggest heat source however is the dimmer for the dash lights. The lower you turn them down the more heat that is generated by the rheostat.
 
If you're pulling your trailer running lights off the truck's lights, then you will eventually overload the headlight switch. The running lights should be run through a relay, if you don't have a towing package. If you have a towing package, there should already be a relay for trailer power and lights. That doesn't mean soemone didn't tap the truck wire's to power the trailer lights. I've run into this many times, especially on the older Dodges, and if your trailer has more than two lights, you can overload the running light contacts on your lightswitch, which causes the switch failure. Too many lights on your truck could do it, too, as well as any shorted wires. If you look in the fuse box under the hood, you'll see where it has room for trailer relays. Most trucks, without towing packages, have the wires run to the bottom, back side of the driver fenderwell, and can be tapped there to run back to the trailer. Adding relays finishes it. Hope this helps.
 
After reading some TDR threads I realize there are several contributing factors. First the aluminum flatbed has numerous more lights than the dually bed.



Secondly, I definitely guilty of the DOAH factor when it comes to dimming the dash lights. I had them turned way down for two reasons 1) better night visibility and 2) I thought it would draw less juice and help... . wrong. Less isn't always better. So, I will turn the dash light up or off.



I am still curious about rewiring the 99 style. Given my electrical skills I should be able to burn something up, or at least perform a self-lobotomy reminiscent of Jack Nicholson... . bbzzzzzzttttt.
 
Well, my trailer lights are wired into the wires going to the tail lights so does that mean that it is pulling power from the switch it self? This could be my problem all along.

Ol'TrailDog, Hope this is OK to ask a question on your thread.
 
Well, my trailer lights are wired into the wires going to the tail lights so does that mean that it is pulling power from the switch it self?



Yes, if you tapped directly to the tail light wiring all the current passes thru the lt switch. More than likely you have a wiring harness even if your truck didn't come with a tow package. You will need to ID it, and add a fuse and relay. If you don't have a factory service manual with wiring diagrams a good source is Genos.
 
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