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97 Ram auto-int no drive

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chirping

How much H.P. ?

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I'm a newbie here and have been pouring over the wealth of information here,WOW !! Keep up the good work guys. Anyways,here's my problem. I have a 97 2500 4x4 auto,and when you start it up cold,and let it warm up for 10-15 mins,then drive away,it works great for the first couple stops,then it will mysteriously lose drive (revs flare up)and seem like it goes into neutral. None of the forward gears or reverse work. I'll put it into neutral and wait 10-20 secs,and then away it goes. Will work great all day after that. Once it happened sitting at a stop sign,and the truck just revved up (just as if it was put into neutral). It has done this since new,even after several trans services and changing to synthetic ATF. Trans has 190000 KM (including plowing) and has never been opened up. DC dealer has no ideas. I have read above convertor drainback,but i think after 10-15 mins of warm up and 1-2 mins of driving it would refill the convertor. Also,on really cold days (-10 C and below),it does this after I back out of the driveway,or much sooner. Other than this problem,the trans works awesome,and I'm afraid to open it up,because it does work so well. If I don't warm it up as long,the problem doesn't happen as often. Could it be the fluid foaming ?I think I have covered most other stuff (tps adj,band adj,trans temps ok). Any ideas ?

Thanks
Chris
 
As far as the long warm ups, I have been told by other that once the oil pressure settles down is steady, its time to go. I use to let mine warm for about 5 minutes, but what I have read thats about 4 minutes too long right after start up. I don't know if that would make a difference, but its worth a try.

Rick

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RICK
97 2500,CC,5 SPEED, 3. 54 Limited Slip,Psychotty System,K&N, Pre-Turbo ISSPRO 3" Pyrometer & Boost Guage,Silencer Ring Removed
12,000 RBW 5th Wheel Hitch,25' Excel 5th Wheel,Rancho RSX17000 Shocks,Amsoil Dealer,Straight Piped
 
I hate to leave it idling,but seems as the only way I can get decent heat out of it. I also have a remote start,so sometimes it runs for awhile before I get out the door. Anyone know of a better block heater ? I believe the stock one is only 450 watts or something. I have a 1500 Watt in my blazer,and it almost blows heat before you start it. I want to go the espar route,just want to put the cash elswhere right now.

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1997 2500 CC 4X4,Auto
 
There are bigger block heaters that will screw right in where the stock one is,check with a tractor supplier,they have a large assortment. I think if you go over 1000 watts it will be a waste though. Of course the heater won't help your transmission. When you say the AT hasn't been opened up I hope you meant for work on it because you need to open it to change the filter.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(work truck)
95 3500,5 speed 3:54,BD E-brake,Driftwood,Banks&Psycotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(works harder truck)
 
What part # of trans oil filter are you useing & are you checking your fluid level in neutral? Looking at both sides of the dipstick? Sure sounds like a low fluid complaint.

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Piers, BD engine R&D
 
When I stated it had not been opened up,I meant other than trans services and band adjustments only. As far as the filter #,I couldn't tell you,it was a DC filter though. All the filters that have gone into always "looked like the right ones" anyways. I will double check it tommorow if I can finf the bill. It has done this right from day one,when the truck was new. I'm a mechanic by trade,and have verified the trans fluid level many times,in neutral. I have even tried it over and under full just to see if would eliminate the problem,but to no avail. DC dealer evn ordered another dipstick tube and dipstick as we thought they may be incorrect. Been to several trans guys,and they have no ideas. Don't know where to go next. Thanks for the help so far guys.

Chris

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1997 2500 CC 4X4,Auto
 
My truck does the same thing. It started after I had the BD valve body put it. There was a anti drainback valve in one of the trans lines that is removed as it restricts flow. Maybe yours has the valve removed or it is stuck open. All your fluid drains back into the pan after sitting overnite and takes a while for it to pump up when cold. Just my guess, I wish I could find a cure for it without putting that valve back in.

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'98 12V 3500 Dually Std Cab, Auto, 3. 54, Banks Stinger Plus, Sun Coast TC. BD valve body, BD Pressureloc
 
So maybe it is convertor drain back then,as I guess even though it is idling for 10 mins,I don't think it flows much oil in park. Wierd that mine does it sometimes after a few mins of driving. The convertor must be full by then,or the vehicle would have never moved in the first place. I don't know.

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1997 2500 CC 4X4,Auto
 
Try warming your truck up in neutral instead of park. Several of the people on this site have recommended this as to circulate the trans fluid. If this problem goes away after idling with trans in neutral then its your anti-drain back valve.

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D McGrady 1996 Club Cab 6BTA 5. 9 12 Valve All Stock Except K&N and Wrangler A/T 305/70/16 136 K and going strong.
 
Well,I tried warming it up in neutral this morning (2-3 mins),and it went into reverse fine,got out of the driveway,put it in drive,it engaged and then just went into neutral (no drive),tried all other gears,nothing. Let it idle in neutral for about 20 secs,and away it went. ARRGHHH !!

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1997 2500 CC 4X4,Auto
 
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