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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 97 with 47RE Torque Converter Coooler Leaking

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Where can i buy motor mounts for a 97 dodge cummins

  • tbooth5372
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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Need Jack handle and extension for 2500.

  • MattC
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chrisf804

I have a 97 with a 47re trans. The torque converter cooler located on the passenger side of the motor is leaking. Mopar discontinued the part and I can't seem to find a replacement. Anybody have an idea where to get one or a kit to bypass it? I know it is designed as a heat sink to maintain the temp as it comes out of the TC but I need ideas.
Thanks in advance.


Chris
 
Bypass it and add an aux thermo operated fan unit under the box, that is the typical fix. You can just get a piece to patch in where the heat exchanger is at any hydraulics shop, or, build a new hydraulic line to the front cooler. By this time you lines are probably not in the best of shape in PA anyway.
 
Are you certain it's the cooler and not one of the fittings? Is it leaking coolant or transmission fluid? I have found these 2nd Gen coolers to be pretty bulletproof. Of course, I see your in PA and I've seen road salt to crazy things to our trucks.
 
It's definitely transmission fluid. It looks like it's coming from the center of the tank on the bottom. I'm gonna tear it apart one night this week and be 100% sure. Just didn't want to take it apart without knowing options. I like the idea of the fan cooled unit under the bed if all else fails. Thanks for both of your input
 
CRodi said:
Welcome to the tdr.

Came across this on ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/95-Dodge-R...Heat-Exchanger-Transmission-12v-/122731386284


Also found this one, but looks pretty rough, probably not much better than yours.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/94-97-Dodg...Heat-Exchanger-Transmission-OEM-/192341450230


Keep us posted.

I may have to deal with this myself, down the road.
Click to expand...

I don't know where you live, but I owe you a case of beer or something! I have been looking around for this for over a month and kept looking for a cooler not a heat exchanger and you found two! Thanks alot! I ordered the nicer one so that if I tear it apart and that is the problem then I have it. I will let everyone know how it goes. Gotta get the truck ready for plow season. Thanks everyone for your help.
 
Cerb is one of the best here on TDR and he has helped me a lot, so I would take his advice over mine.

However, I know a couple of fellows who have removed their heat exchanger and have regretted it. It warms the transmission fluid when it's cold and helps hold the fluid at a more constant temp as well as cooling it when it gets above your coolant temp. If you could I'd keep it. Just my $0.02....
 
Well don't plan on buying a Cummins version unless you win the lottery. I just checked and they were reasonably priced years back. Not Now!!

Try just South of $3,000.00 bucks according to my price tape.......Number changes up to 3926670.

Only thing they were ever used on were the Rams, demand is almost non-existent so if Behr Heat Transfer has to crank one out it's gonna' cost.......
 
CRodi, if you have the slightest inkling you may need one in the future you might want to grab that other one off of ebay.......
 
chrisf804:

Don't worry about the beer. I've gotten a lot of solid information and really good deals from this forum, so I don't mind sharing. By the way, I'm just on the other side of the border, just north of your place.

mwilson:

I'm going to keep my eyes open for a decent looking unit. I'm in the rust belt, so all the ones from the U-Pull yards in my area are pretty rough. Something from the southern states would be nice. I don't have any problems with mine yet. I'm just trying to foresee future problems. Since these units are bolted to the block, your favourite rust treatment (WD 40, fluid film, rust check etc...) just burns right off. It's hard to keep them from rusting.

If I understand cerb's post correctly, the coolant and transmission fluid would be on their own separate systems. If this is correct, you won't have to worry about either fluid contaminating the other.
 
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In a perfect world you keep the heat exchanger as it benefits are unquestionable. These transmissions are designed to run the best from 140-240 degrees and the quicker they get in that range the longer they last. In cold temps running the block heater will help a lot as it has already warm coolant to get the fluid up to temp faster. Even 10 weight oil in -20 is pretty thick stuff to pump around thru small orifices, you definitely want warm coolant as soon as possible and some idle time to get it flowing adequately and that takes heat.

In high load conditions the fluid to fluid coolers are 2-3 times more efficient pulling heat than the air to fluid coolers, that in itself will make a huge difference when needed. It is not unusual in heavy load conditions and fluid coupling to see trans fluid temps exceeding 260-280 degrees coming out of the TC, all that power generates heat and it ends up in the fluid. Engine coolant temps at or around 200 will pull a LOT of that out of the fluid as it goes thru a heat exchanger. Lockup mode is your friend in those cases as more fluid is routed to the cooler and the fluid shear has stopped. As the system is designed it is pretty fool proof and effective in its operating range.

When you step away from the factory design to just air to fluid coolers it is a different ball game. Changes in hardware and driving style need to be made or the results will not be as good as expected. The cost of these older exchangers is just ridiculous, have to decide what is best overall.
 
They are available, hope this link works. Like $350.

Americancoolingsolutions.com

You can also search that om TDR and a thread should pop up with pics of how I did mine.
 
Yeah they have a drawing they can send you. I can't find it anymore I got mine 4/2016, from what I was trying could not find aftermarket fittings so I called them and they got back to me pretty quickly with a tech who had the original OEM drawing and their drawing just to make sure what I got was correct, the original fittings worked fine I was trying to just replace everything, I just reused the old fitting and one small line.

Coolant tubes and the large clamps I got from my local Cummins dealer, hoses Mr. BOB'S. Repainted the bracket and some new hardware.

2016-05-14 18.08.33 (1).jpg


2016-04-17 17.21.27 (1).jpg
 
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Issue 128 – Digital Version
Digital Magazines
FREE!
TDR Test Drive - Digital Edition
Renew
Subscribe
Gift Subscriptions
Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Perfect Collection
The Perfect Collection Vol. II
TSB Updates
Dodge/Cummins Historical Overview
Cameron Collection
What Makes Us Tick?
Product Showcase
Advertising



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