98.5 24V, Turbo, injector and maybe a manifold suggestions.

[Joey.G]

Hi,

Looking for suggestions on a Turbo and Injectors, I want the truck to remain reliable and a daily driver but with some more power, Truck will tow a car trailer or snowmobile trailer from time to time.
1998.5 Quad cab auto 4wd, Will be adding head studs.
Has the following,
Quadzilla tuner
Fleece Lift Pump,
Industrial injection VP44,
S&B Cold air intake,
Aftermarket intake horn,
4 Inch MBRP exhaust no muffler.
Trans has some billet parts in it along with a convertor, I am not 100 % sure of all the details.
I was thinking some where around 75 to 125 injectors?
Turbos I am not sure. Would I need to or should I change exhaust manifold as well?
Model and brands would be helpful as well.

Thanks

 

[petersonj]

I want the truck to remain reliable and a daily driver but with some more power, Truck will tow a car trailer or snowmobile trailer from time to time

Unless I am missing something here, the Quadzilla tuner is very capable of controlling fuel and timing under various engine loads and throttle positions on a stock fueled engine. I believe that you have an HX35W turbo (stock on 98.5-00 engines) which flows good with added fuel at higher rpms.

I am currently using a Smarty S03 tuner with a mild tune - no head studs, a stock HX35W turbo, RV275 injectors, stock exhaust and intake manifolds, and OEM air filtration. I have towed 21,000 lbs GCW loads many times on long trips going over many mountain passes (6% and 7% grades) in hot weather. I am very happy how the truck performs as a daily driver and as a towing vehicle.

The Quadzilla should be even more capable than a Smarty S03 because fuel and timing can be precisely controlled throughout the throttle position and engine rpm range.

I first started using the Smarty S03 before I changed out the original stock injectors. The performance was just as good as the RV275 injectors - I just had the fuel duration adjusted differently.

- John

 

[Joey.G]

Maybe I should just do head studs and injectors first, There are many choices on injectors so i am not sure what ones to go with.

 

[KBurgoyne]

After a mountain of research i ended up with ducky fuel injection. One a few companies that didnt mind talking on the phone for a while about injector size and type for your application.

https://www.dfi-performance.com/classic-injectors-2/

 

[GAmes]

I don't understand the fascination with head studs for minor HP increases. Is it that it sounds cool to say "I have head studs"? I see the same fascination in the 12 valve world and I smh. Unless you can increase your timing to 18 btdc or more heads studs won't do anything for you except make your wallet lighter. And if you are injecting enough fuel to need 18 degrees or more of timing increase you have bypassed what I consider a "reliable daily driver".

 

[BigPapa]

I don't understand the fascination with head studs

I'm right there with you, G.

 

[Ozymandias]

I don't understand the fascination with head studs for minor HP increases. Is it that it sounds cool to say "I have head studs"? I see the same fascination in the 12 valve world and I smh. Unless you can increase your timing to 18 btdc or more heads studs won't do anything for you except make your wallet lighter. And if you are injecting enough fuel to need 18 degrees or more of timing increase you have bypassed what I consider a "reliable daily driver".

That's what I thought from 10 years reading this Forum. Waste of money so to say.

 

[NIsaacs]

Maybe I should just do head studs

https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-cometic-mlx-head-gasket-985-02-dodge-ram-59l-cummins-24-valve

In general, a street truck doesn't need studs. However, if you do decide to use them, I recommend a high performance Cometic head gasket. The clamp load of fine threaded head studs can over clamp a stock head gasket v/s coarse thread head bolts using the same torque value.

Here are some pictures of a stock head gasket that suffered head studs and less than 1k before it leaked. When I pointed out what went wrong, he blamed the Cummins gasket Left gasket is stock oem with bolts. Right is head studs, note the imprint of over clamping it.

 

[Joey.G]

I didn't think they would be needed for minor power increases but All I keep hearing is you need studs and so on, Even some companies I called about injectors and turbos. This is one of the first threads I have read with people suggesting not to.

 

[BigPapa]

I can only tell you my experience. I drove my 12-valve truck for about a year and a half with a large turbo and large injectors, right at 400HP, maximum boost was 60 psi. My timing was set at 18.5°. The head gasket was the original with over 500K miles when I sold it. The head had never been off.

 

[NIsaacs]

Hi,

Looking for suggestions on a Turbo and Injectors, I want the truck to remain reliable and a daily driver but with some more power,
Turbos I am not sure. Would I need to or should I change exhaust manifold as well?
Model and brands would be helpful as well.

Thanks

Unless you are looking for more than 400 hp, I would go with RV275's. That is a Cummins rated engine. Get the new Bosch ones. I have had two different vender built performance injectors in my '91, both were/are smoky and haze at idle. I don't like them. The RV's run perfect in my '01. It dynos 400/900 with a Edge Juice and stock turbo. I did finally replace the stock turbo with a BorgWarner K27, nothing to write home about. I have a turbo mount exhaust brake so there are only a few turbos that will fit. Most performance turbos use an HX40 exhaust. They are 4" and won't work for my exhaust brake, it is 3".

Back in the day and probably still relevant, 1 psi boost equals 10 hp. So 400 hp needs 40 psi. The newer trucks are more efficient and seem to require less boost. My stock turbo maxed at 33 psi, and I have the K27 set at 35. Drive pressure is important. My Edge runs hot EGT's so I drive it with my right foot and the monitor. You can set the EGT's to defuel at any temp you want. Mine is set at 1350. 370k miles on my '01 with some hard use, no problems.

 

[Joey.G]

I was looking for the 400 to 500 Range, I don't have the sheet in front of me but I think a 62/67 and 7x10 Injectors were suggested by what a appears to be a well regarded turbo builder on some of the FB forums. I may be off on those numbers though. This is new to me and can be quite confusing.

 

[NIsaacs]

I didn't think they would be needed for minor power increases but All I keep hearing is you need studs and so on, Even some companies I called about injectors and turbos. This is one of the first threads I have read with people suggesting not to.

Maybe because we don't sell any parts. Be advised, vendors/diesel shops will always up sell.

 

[Ozymandias]

Maybe because we don't sell any parts. Be advised, vendors/diesel shops will always up sell.

So true!

 

[KBurgoyne]

Said aftermarket shops also like to use heavily modified late model trucks as test rigs for their turbos and injectors. A 6.7 with a performance camshaft will move a lot more air than a second gen. Hense the 600+ hp out of a 62 or 63mm turbo. I think a lot of companies have discontinued their s300's for the old trucks and its mostly hot rod hx35 and hybrids now. You can also get a drop in billet wheel for 250 ish. Makes you factory turbo a 60/60. Not great for towing.
Theres all kinds of modded hx35. 60-67mm compressor and 65-67mm turbine for around 1200. Or the fleece for 1600 cause theyre really proud of it I guess. Fenley, stainless diesel and power driver diesel have plently of options to kick off your research. Most are fit with hx40 downpipes.

 

[Joey.G]

How is Fenley? That is one of the ones i am looking at? It gets so confusing I don't want to order the wrong stuff.

 

[KBurgoyne]

Mine is only 3 weeks old, but zero complaints so far. No lag, lower temps, and more power. I got a 60/67 because it keeps the factory downpipe and exhaust brake. The 62/67 uses an hx40 downpipe which i would do if i didnt have the exhaust brake.

 

[Joey.G]

The numbers do confuse me, I would pick it up quickly if I chatted with someone who could answer questions that I have. Some of these sellers just want to make the sale and not go into details.

 

[KBurgoyne]

A 62 or 63/67 makes a lot of sense with your plans. I have no lag with a 67 turbine, so a smaller one would just increase egt and drive pressure especially if you plan on towing. Figure out if you want a diaphragm or spring wastegate. IDK if the vp44 or your tuner needs input from the wastegate. One i got has a spring gate and you cap off the factory wastegate line.

 

[Joey.G]

Injector suggestions are welcome, There are a lot of options from many different companies.