Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 99 injector pump

[Speck]

I was driving home from short road trip--got about 1/4 mile from home on my road and truck dies. While rolling started
back up but kept dying but made it almost to the house (coasting)
Next day managed to force it into garage by starting and dying . Now cranks but no start acting like no fuel but I had just
filled up. I checked water separator by rear wheel (easy to access---fass system) no fuel. Checked fass fuse- blown -replaced fuse -still no start. Loosened fass line at injector pump -bled air-opened lines- 2or3--fuel dribbled out---closed---opened 4 lines at injectors and fuel dribbled--closed--no start.
Truck will run with small shot of either so I'm pretty sure its injector pump . First pump 65000 miles --2nd 180000 with fass. Does anyone have any input before the $1300 pump-- I'm open to suggestions and thanks in advance.

 

[JMLambert]

When mine quit it would not start again, had the same out come with the fuel at the injectors. I checked for codes and it was the injector pump.

 

[JR]

What are you getting for fuel pressure? Need to determine whether or not your still having lift pump issues before condemning the injection pump. The blown fuse would make me ssuspect the lift pump. Could be a bad motor, loose/corroded wiring, or even something caught in the gears of the pump, although that is unlikely because any debris sucked up SHOULD be trapped in the water separator.
Definitely need to determine fuel pressure before moving on.

 

[Speck]

JR Where is easiest access for fuel pressure reading and what is a good pressure . Was auto mechanic for 44 years but on cars and gas vehicles (the St Louis PD don't do diesel)and the last 20 I was the boss so guess who is out of touch.

 

[JR]

There are plugs on the top of the fuel canister, that is where I run my gauge from.

 

[DavidC]

There are plugs on the top of the fuel canister, that is where I run my gauge from.

Correct for a 99, one is pre the other post filter

Dave

 

[Speck]

JR and DavidC
The fuel canister is in my barn --taken off when fass installed .
You guys got me wondering if fass pump is going bad after 180000 and that's the reason fuse blew? Anyone know how much pressure should be in line between fass pump and where it hooks into ip.I had mine installed and it looks like it goes from fass pump through separator and filter then blue flex hose to inlet on injector pump.

 

[SnoKing]

If you bump the key/starter do you hear the lift pump run for 27-28 seconds? Should build fuel pressure to 15-20 lbs. Chris

 

[JR]

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Pushlock-Fittings-s/186.htm

Check out the fittings at the bottom of the link, all you need to do is cut your fuel line and splice the fitting in. Then you will have an
1/8" npt fitting to run a fuel gauge off of. I run a needle valve right off of the 1/8" npt fitting then high pressure air brake line tubing (also compatable with oil and fuel) to a mechanical gauge in the cab. The needle valve is to protect the gauge from high pressure spikes in pressure from the injection pump. I have the valve cracked open just enough to allow the gauge to read. Without the needle valve to buffer the watter hammer from the injection pump it will damage the gauge.
Some people are against running mechanical gauges, they are not comfortable with running fuel line into the cab. As long as you protect the tubing where it goes through the firewall and anything else that can rub or cut it, there will be no issues. If you are not comfortable yourself, they do offer electronic gauges but they are quite a bit more and as with all electrical components have the potential to fail or provide false readings. Vulcan Performance (the website in the link I provided) has gauges among other websites.
A fuel pressure gauge is an absolute must on a VP44 powered truck IMO. The injection pumps are very prone to failure when starved for fuel or ran on contaminated fuel. You have taken steps towards protecting against contaminated fuel with a dual filter set up, but need to add a gauge to ensure you are keeping adequate pressure to the pump at all times.
Good luck and let us know how you make out.

The fittings in the link are for 1/2" lines, they also have them for 3/8" fuel line so make sure you know what you have.
I don't think your FASS will put anything out over about 16 psi without a stiffer spring installed in the return line.

 

[Speck]

JR and SNOKING
Had to break from 99 to put cv joints in 04 sorry---Back to 99 ---pressure out of fass good---cracked 1 3 4 lines--started truck with
starting fluid---ran as long as fluid applied---fuel coming out of lines----closed lines---cranks--no start---no codes. I can't believe something as simple as running out of fuel can cause this much trouble!!!! Will most likely send it to the shop next week unless I can
find the cause as it seemsto be electrical and beyond home diagnosis and repair. Just hope it isn't ecm as it just replaced last march to the tune of 2200 installed. When it's fixed the boss (wife) says it might be looking at some new scenery.

 

[JR]

So it only runs on ether?
Were you getting good fuel pressure at the injector lines or was it just dribbling? What kind of fuel pressure are you seeing out of the lift pump? If you don't yet have a fuel pressure gauge you could do a flow test into a bucket to get a good idea. Remove the line before the injection pump and stick it in the bucket and bump the key to activate the lift pump. I don't know for certain FASS's specs but a true 95GPH pump should be putting out around 1.5 gallons per minute, or .75 gallons per 30 seconds. At the minimum you should have at least 1/3 of a gallon of fuel during one cycle. Anything under that and I would be digging into it a little deeper. Since your problems all started with the FASS fuse blowing I would still be suspect of an issue there.

 

[SnoKing]

What JR said! ^^^^ Chris

 

[Speck]

Took line off between fass and inj pump --cranked--10-15 sec 1 quart container full of clean clear diesel--I assume lift pump is in tank
if I bypass fass pump --do you think it's worth a try???

 

[SnoKing]

Again. If you just bump the starter without cranking, the ECM should run the pump for 27-30 seconds. Have some bump the engine while you are down there listening for a pump to run for that length of time. Chris

 

[JR]

Speck, now I'm confused. Are you saying you've possibly been running the in tank lift pump along with your Fass pump in tandem?
When I said "lift pump" in my above posts I was referring to your FASS pump. The 99 truck would have come from the factory with an engine block mounted lift pump, however if the injection pump was ever replaced at the dealer the requirement for warranty is for the truck to be retrofitted with an in tank lift pump. I am not sure which pump you had, but when the FASS was installed the OEM lift pump SHOULD have been disconnected.

Hope I'm not creating more confusion than I am help.

 

[SnoKing]

And we forgot to warn that you should not use ether on these engines with grid heaters! Chris

 

[JR]

Took line off between fass and inj pump --cranked--10-15 sec 1 quart container full of clean clear diesel--I assume lift pump is in tank
if I bypass fass pump --do you think it's worth a try???

This sounds like pretty good volume to me. If your getting that much fuel to the injection pump I don't think you have any lift pump issues. Not sure why the fuse popped though so you will have to keep an eye on it, maybe throw a few spares in the glove box for when you get the truck running in case it pops another. Very strange your not showing any codes, have you physically hooked a scanner up just to see if it pulls anything out of the ecm?
You don't have any tuners or programmers on your truck do you? (SMARTY, Edge, TST, etc)?

 

[Speck]

JR Have edge but that's it. Had 1689 in the beginning but I also had run battery down getting home-cleared in the beginning never
set again -I also had charged batteries since. I guess I can disable and see what happens can't hurt! Istolatt(I'm so tired of looking at this truck)

 

[JR]

Definitely remove the Edge from the equation. Especially with a 1689 code! It seems that they cause a lot of problems when they go south.

Have you verified proper voltage at the batteries, along with all of your poisitve and negative connections? (At the battery and at the ground)
the 1689 code changes alot for your diagnosing, it likely hasnt come back yet because the truck isn't running.

Possible causes of 1689 code:
fuel inj pump gnd circuit open or high resistence
fuel pump control module harness defective
datalink (+) circuit open
datalink (+) circuit short to ground
datalink (-) circuit open
datalink (-) circuit short to ground



I would do a good visual of all battery cables and disconnect the edge, and go from there.

Also try swapping out the relay in the PDC under the hood with another like relay. (I believe the horn relay is the same)

 

[Speck]

OK Now I'm ready to dig a hole in the far corner of the farm. I screwed up ---left the door ajar now dead battery---charged-- disconnected edge --cranked--same. Just on whim took code reading --1698 ecm communication between ecm --pcm lost. Fass
is wired direct to battery sooooo where did this code come from????
Thanks for your patients