2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission a couple of alternator questions-

[raxley]

Recently I changed my alternator out for a alternator that was in another truck I wasn't driving as much (a pretty tattered 1991 w250) The gauge was showing the voltage below the middle, and apparently it was running off of battery voltage. I took it to Kragens and they said that the voltage regulator was out, and that the regulator was internal to the alternator. This reading was taken when my truck was running and they hooked up a computer-thingy to the battery.So I was going to buy another alternator and exchange it with the temporary one that I put in my 1994 (truck I'm keeping). Anyway, I took the alternator apart because I wanted to see if I could fix it cheaply. I tested the rectifier pack and the voltage drops there seem ok, about .4 or .5 volt dropped in each of the 3 diodes. I tested the 3 windings and they seem ok too, they are about .1 to .2 ohm for each of the 3 windings. I guess the armature (spinning thing in the middle) could be bad, and I don't know how to test that or anything else.
So I'm looking to get another alternator, because I didn't see anybody near me who repairs them, also figured postage 2 ways would eat up any savings I'd get anyway. The one guy that I was going to buy from on the internet (on ebay he has a brand new 136 amp (think 120 amp is stock for $105, no postage, no core, 1 yr. guarantee) but the listing says it's a external regulator. I didn't notice anything in the alternator that would be a regulator, and the guy answered my question and said that the Dodges of my year had a regulator in the PCM.
Any ideas on why my alternator problem seemed to go away, my gauge seems OK now, it's been a week or so with plenty of night driving?
Also I understand that I can't take my 2005 truck's alternator off, they are different. I'd look at it myself, but it's on the other side of town in storage.

 

[JR]

Maybe by disassembling and reassembling you "fixed" a loose/corroded connection in the altenator? My only guess could be there was a poor connection somewhere that you corrected by fiddling around.

And yes, the alternators are externally regulated.

 

[raxley]

Well, I put another alternator that was on my other truck on there, so it can't be that. However, everything works well now (with used alternator). I found the brushes for my alternator (stock alternator for 1996 Dodge Ram 2500) and the part number is 231105861726. If you type that part number into ebay search box, a guy 'named' triodiode (http://myworld.ebay.com/triodiode?_trksid=p2047675.l2559) sells them for $13.95, another sells them for $10.95 (name of crank-n-charge http://myworld.ebay.com/crank-n-charge?_trksid=p2047675.l2559) however I'm not entirely sure that they are exact right ones, I bought them yesterday and he replied today asking for more info, but it sounds like he has them if the ones he sent (already in mail) aren't the right ones.
Probably I should have bought bearings too, but the alternator is pretty easy to take apart, although I had a small gear puller and a set of plyers that pushes apart when squeezing handles.
I didn't ever realize that the thing I took off was brushes, they are on outside of alternator proper and are in a small package that fits around the shaft away from the pulley. There is a small sheet metal cover that covers the end of the shaft, you take that off to get to the brushes. You might be able to do this without removing alternator, although I probably wouldn't have done it that way even if I knew that you could. I'm sure that the brushes will fix it, I can see where the brushes won't go any further than what they are extended now, the carbon just barely touches the shaft (obviously not touching good enough for it to charge)
It will be nice to not spend $100, $11 is much better, although if I spent $28 for bearings and brushes both, it would be a better alternator yet.

 

[JR]

Rebuilding them is definitely the way to go for the most part, same with the starter and brake calipers. Larry B sells a good quality rebuild kit for the starters with better than OEM contacts and brushes for around 60 bucks. Alot better than 300 for a reman.