It will not work on your 2004. First year for wiTECH on our trucks was 2006. But if Michael can confirm it includes the DRBIII emulator function then it will work similar to the DRBIII.
Thank you, that was what I was thinking about that my truck was made for the DRBIII back then.
If Michael could check that physically on an older Truck that would be awesome.
You should be able to check on your truck. Look at the lower right when you are hooking up and see if it says DRBIII Emulator. It will be grayed out, but still might be there.
AutoEnginuity has a pass through programmer that will write to the ECM. Not cheap but it is cheaper than a true DRBIII that actually works, more than a few out there that are broke and there is no fixing them as the original provider is gone. Even the DRBIII emulators are a crapshoot as they may not work as intended either. The common WiTech DRBIII emulators I have been told are missing a lot of original features and functions.
I would not EVER put a Chinese based program on another computer and trust it. Way too many glitches in there stuff and potential for spyware right along with it.
You should be able to check on your truck. Look at the lower right when you are hooking up and see if it says DRBIII Emulator. It will be grayed out, but still might be there.
I was under the impression that the Autoenginuity software was extensive and implemented well.
To those who have it, what is it specifically that you do NOT like about it?
AutoEnginuity can program all those things and more, basically load a whole new image on the ECM if desired. The hardware to do that has to be purchased and licensed like anything else, nothing is free these days.
A functioning DRB III goes for $3000-4000 dollars most of the time.
A good DRB III Emulator software package is around $2500. (Good is questionable, even the emulator software has holes in its functionality form all accounts)
The AutoEnginuity programmer is $1700.
All of them require a subscription to TechAuthority for flash files to write ECM or BCM modules. The DRB III only supports 1998 thru 2007 where the AutoEnginuity is 1996 thru 2020 IIRC. If one wants adequate reliable tools it will cost $$.
The other option is take a chance for a couple hundred that these free emulators actually work, won't mess up the write to the ECM, won't eat your computer, aren't full of spyware and trojans, etc. Most of these cheap emulators and software are coming out of China or former USSR and eastern block countries. You know, the groups that hacked the internet edge routers and were capturing all manner of data streams for months before they got caught stealing data and private information.
I have a 2004 Land Rover, and do all my own work on it. There were some issues with the ABS sensors, but there was a pretty easy fix for that. I also have a special computer tool for the Land Rover that is locked to the VIN that allows my to do computer diagnosis, it's not a CAN system, one of the last years to not be CAN, but it does have a network of sorts. Having said that, to be completely fair, that Land Rover has about 75K miles, my 2009 Dodge Cummins has about 55K miles.. and I'm dealing with more substantial issues on the Dodge right now with an erratic ECU CAN communications on the network.. I already replaced the TIPM, which apparently was not the problem, unless I got a second bad TIPM.. but my point is generally I have not observed the nightmares many report with Land Rovers, but I don't doubt they happen, there are some issues that if not maintained properly can lead to big expensive repairs, but that is not an issue unique to Land Rovers. Many makes and models have things that need attention to prevent bigger issues.
Any 2004 or newer car is going to have some kind of network, and most will be CAN. Also, any ABS car is going to need a computer interface to properly bleed the ABS pump and valve body. It's actually not difficult, but you do need the right tools to do so. The wiTECH micropod 2 that I linked should be able to do a brake bleed procedure. I also recommend getting the factory service manual from FCA Techauthority online, it ships on a CD disk, and is reasonably priced. With that and the proper computer based tools, you should be able to figure this out... that said, given what you have said thus far, that module needs to be rebuilt, or replaced.. and they generally are not cheap. That said, on the Land Rover, I was able to replace the solenoid shuttle valve portion only on the ABS pump/valve body, which was about $50 and it fixed what is commonly known on Land Rover Discovery 2s as the "three amigos" Since the ABS does more than brakes on that car, when there is a problem with the ABS, you get 3 warning lights, ABS, Hill Decent Control, and Traction control, since all use the ABS to function.
They are not ripping you off, they are protecting their proprietary software. They invest millions to develop it for their dealers use. The only reason they provide it to the aftermarket is because they have to by law. If you think FCA is ripping you off, take a look at Tesla. You can't even buy their proprietary software. The federal law says a manufacturer must provide their proprietary software to aftermarket, same as their dealers. But Tesla does not have any dealers so they ignore the law. I'm sure someone will sue them eventually, but for now your on your own if you buy one and want the OEM tool.Thanks for putting the numbers up, when I was looking and saw those numbers, the $134 tool did look too good to be true, and given the massive price differential, I figure worth a try, even if it didn't work. I scanned the files and did not find any issues using the latest McAfee, now sure it is no guarantee, but frankly at the price difference you can get a stand alone laptop, a refurb would be fine, especially since it needed Windows 7 to work, and still be way cheaper than the other options. I'd pay more for the OEM stuff, but not 5-10 time more, it's just a rip-off, and they are buying the hardware items, from China, likely the same factories. Now the tool I got for GM did scan and warn of trojans so I returned it and I'm looking for another option, one that might include a dedicated PC, since I don't have a Windows 10 Laptop available, and the GM site needs Windows 10 for the online support with the subscription.
I have re-flashed my ECU twice already with the tool, and no problems.. (didn't fix the problem I was trying to fix, but did not create any new problems either). Hopefully later this week I'll have the used ECU I ordered.. best price I could find anywhere in the US was close to $1000, yet I found an ECU that shipped from China, with shipping, for $220.. Of course it could be crap, I'll see soon, but even if so, it can be a core for a purchase on another ECU, and I'd keep the one I have that works, with an annoying CAN communication problem, It seems prudent to have a spare given they seem to be getting more expensive.
I do prefer to by USA, but I'm not made of money and can't afford to be ripped off, and seems that is what is happening on many products these days. Especially maddening is the US supplier that buys it cheap from China, maybe does minor assembly, or just puts a sticker on it, then claims 'MADE IN USA" and charges 10 times the price for an item, and yes I have seen this, it ticks me off.
They are not ripping you off, they are protecting their proprietary software. They invest millions to develop it for their dealers use. The only reason they provide it to the aftermarket is because they have to by law. If you think FCA is ripping you off, take a look at Tesla. You can't even buy their proprietary software. The federal law says a manufacturer must provide their proprietary software to aftermarket, same as their dealers. But Tesla does not have any dealers so they ignore the law. I'm sure someone will sue them eventually, but for now your on your own if you buy one and want the OEM tool.
You own and work on a Land Rover??
Those have pretty bizarre electronics and related thought processes for sure!
RESPECT!!!
Because it isn't just the tool, it is all the R&D it takes to make it work. If it was so easy and inexpensive the aftermarket would not charge what they do.